Sewing Techniques With Burda: Invisible Zippers
This kind of zipper should be familar to you through ready-to-wear garments. If you cannot see the zipper at all, not even the joining seam, this means it is an invisible zipper.
Invisible zippers are available in lengths of 22 cm (8 3/4 in), 40 cm (15 3/4 in), and 60 cm (23 5/8 in). The zipper should be at least 2 cm (3/4 in) longer than the slit. A special presser foot is required for stitching this zip fastener. It is among the special accessories of many modern sewing machines (consult your sewing machine manual to check). Installation instructions come with the foot. Invisible zippers are always inserted above or below the slit, before the seam is stitched (the seam is completely open).
Here's how:
1. Open the zipper and use your thumbnail to press the teeth flat so that the seam line between the tape and teeth is visible (1).
2. Place the upper side of the open zipper on the right side of the fabric.
To help you stitch the zipper exactly on the seam line, calculate the distance from the tape edge to the fabric edge: seam allowance width minus 1 cm (3/8 in) tape width = distance to the fabric edge.
Use a straight pin to fix the top zipper end in place at the calculated distance from the fabric edge (2)
3. The bottom zipper end will protrude at the marked slit end. Lower the presser foot onto the zipper so that the teeth are in the groove to the right of the needle (3)
4. Stitch the zipper from the top to the marked slit symbol. Close the zipper.
Place the top side of the second zipper tape on the right side of the fabric and use a straight pin to fix the top in place (4).
5. Open the zipper again. Lower the presser foot onto the upper zipper end so that the teeth are in the groove to the left of the needle (5).
6. Stitch the zipper from the top to the slit symbol. Close the zipper.
Pin the seam below the zipper, folding the loose bottom zipper end to the seam allowance. Stitch the seam, ending as close to the last stitch of the zipper seams as possible (6).
And there you have it! Now you know how to sew an invisible zipper easily and professionally!
