Sewing Lesson: Men's Hoodie #120 12/2018
1
Jan
Refer to "the pattern’s store page here" for specific fabric yardage and notion requirements. Also remember to add seam allowance (you can either add to the paper pattern before cutting or to the fabric around the pattern… see below), further info and amounts can be found in the instructions PDF after purchase.
Step 1: CUT FABRIC PIECES Fold fabric in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin paper pattern pieces to the fabric as shown in cutting layout, laying pieces 1, 2, and 5 on the fabric fold. With a ruler and tailor’s chalk, mark the seam allowances, as follows: 1.5 cm (5/8") at all seams and edges. Draw the measured pieces directly on the fabric. Cut out all fabric pieces.
Step 2: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS TO THE FABRIC On all fabric pieces, use dressmaker’s carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and all other pattern markings to the wrong side of the fabric. Follow the instructions included with the carbon paper. Hand baste along pocket placement lines on front and also the fold line and centre front on the hood to make these visible on the right side of the fabric. Mark eyelet insertion positions with pencil dots on the right side of the fabric.
Step 3: TIPS FOR WORKING WITH STRETCH FABRICS When working with stretch fabrics, the best results will be achieved with a serger/ overlock machine. These seams will be especially elastic so that they don't tear during wearing. If you don't have a serger/ overlock machine, stitch seams with a special stretch stitch or with a narrow zigzag stitch. Make sure that the thread tension is not set too tight.
Step 4: POCKET Finish all edges of the pocket piece, except the lower edge. On each pocket opening edge, fold the allowance to the wrong side, baste in place, and press. Topstitch 1.3 cm (_") from the pocket opening edges. Then press the allowances on upper and side edges to the wrong side. Pin pocket to front piece, to meet marked placement lines. Edge stitch upper and side edges of pocket in place, tying off ends of seams with backstitching. Baste lower pocket edge in place.
Step 5: SIDE SEAMS / SLEEVE SEAMS Lay front piece on back piece, right sides facing. Pin side seams then stitch as pinned. Fold each sleeve lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin and stitch sleeve seams. At each seam, trim allowances to 7 mm (_") wide, finish edges of allowances together, and press allowances to one side.
Step 6: WRIST BANDS Fold each wrist band piece in half, right side facing in. Stitch ends together. Press seam open. Fold wrist band in half lengthwise, wrong side facing in. Pin attachment edges together. Pin wrist band to lower edge of sleeve, stretched as needed, matching wrist band seam to sleeve seam. Stitch wrist band to sleeve. Trim seam allowances, and finish edges of allowances together. Turn wrist band down.
Step 7: SET IN SLEEVES Lay each sleeve on armhole edge, right sides facing. Pin sleeve seam and side seam together. Pin remaining sleeve edge to armhole edge, matching seam marks 4 on sleeve and front piece. Stitch sleeve in place. Trim seam allowances to 1 cm (3/8") wide, finish edges of allowances together, and press allowances toward sleeve. Topstitch the sleeve, 7 mm (_") from the seam, thereby catching the seam allowances.
Step 8: HEM BAND Stitch ends of hem band piece together to form a ring. Press seam open. Fold hem band in half lengthwise, wrong side facing in. Pin attachment edges together. With a straight pin, mark a point exactly opposite the seam. Pin hem band to lower edge of hoodie, right sides facing, stretch-ing hem band slightly and matching seam and straight pin to the side seams. Stitch hem band in place. Trim allowances to 7 mm (_") wide and finish edges together. Turn hem band down.
Step 9: SEW THE HOOD Lay hood pieces together, right sides facing. Pin, then stitch the centre seam. Press seam allowances to one side. Trim the lower allowance to 5 mm (3/16") wide. Turn the edge of the upper allowance under and pin it in place. Edge stitch this allowance in place. Insert eyelets in front edge of hood as marked, following the manufacturer's instructions and catching small pieces of fabric on the wrong side of the hood, to prevent the eyelets from tearing the fabric. Trim the edges of these fabric pieces, close to the eyelets.
Step 10: SEW THE HOOD Fold the self-facing on the front edge of the hood to the inside, along the marked fold line, turn the raw edge under, and baste the self-facing in place for a finished width of 2 cm (_"). Edge stitch the self-facing in place. Pin the left front hood edge to the right front hood edge, matching the centre fronts. Baste the lower edges together.
Step 11: ATTACH THE HOOD Mark the centers of the front and back neck edges of the sweatshirt with straight pins. Pin the hood to the neck edge, right sides facing, matching the centers and matching the seam marks on the hood to the seam marks on the sleeves. Stitch hood in place. Finish edges of seam allowances together and press allowances down. Topstitch the sweatshirt 7 mm (_") from the hood attachment seam, thereby catching the allowances.
Step 12: CORD Wrap adhesive tape tightly around one cord end. Slide this end of the cord through one eyelet, along the front edge of the hood, and out through the second eyelet. Trim away the end with the adhesive tape. Knot cord ends.
FINISHED!
Step 1: CUT FABRIC PIECES Fold fabric in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin paper pattern pieces to the fabric as shown in cutting layout, laying pieces 1, 2, and 5 on the fabric fold. With a ruler and tailor’s chalk, mark the seam allowances, as follows: 1.5 cm (5/8") at all seams and edges. Draw the measured pieces directly on the fabric. Cut out all fabric pieces.
Step 2: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS TO THE FABRIC On all fabric pieces, use dressmaker’s carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and all other pattern markings to the wrong side of the fabric. Follow the instructions included with the carbon paper. Hand baste along pocket placement lines on front and also the fold line and centre front on the hood to make these visible on the right side of the fabric. Mark eyelet insertion positions with pencil dots on the right side of the fabric.
Step 3: TIPS FOR WORKING WITH STRETCH FABRICS When working with stretch fabrics, the best results will be achieved with a serger/ overlock machine. These seams will be especially elastic so that they don't tear during wearing. If you don't have a serger/ overlock machine, stitch seams with a special stretch stitch or with a narrow zigzag stitch. Make sure that the thread tension is not set too tight.
Step 4: POCKET Finish all edges of the pocket piece, except the lower edge. On each pocket opening edge, fold the allowance to the wrong side, baste in place, and press. Topstitch 1.3 cm (_") from the pocket opening edges. Then press the allowances on upper and side edges to the wrong side. Pin pocket to front piece, to meet marked placement lines. Edge stitch upper and side edges of pocket in place, tying off ends of seams with backstitching. Baste lower pocket edge in place.
Step 5: SIDE SEAMS / SLEEVE SEAMS Lay front piece on back piece, right sides facing. Pin side seams then stitch as pinned. Fold each sleeve lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin and stitch sleeve seams. At each seam, trim allowances to 7 mm (_") wide, finish edges of allowances together, and press allowances to one side.
Step 6: WRIST BANDS Fold each wrist band piece in half, right side facing in. Stitch ends together. Press seam open. Fold wrist band in half lengthwise, wrong side facing in. Pin attachment edges together. Pin wrist band to lower edge of sleeve, stretched as needed, matching wrist band seam to sleeve seam. Stitch wrist band to sleeve. Trim seam allowances, and finish edges of allowances together. Turn wrist band down.
Step 7: SET IN SLEEVES Lay each sleeve on armhole edge, right sides facing. Pin sleeve seam and side seam together. Pin remaining sleeve edge to armhole edge, matching seam marks 4 on sleeve and front piece. Stitch sleeve in place. Trim seam allowances to 1 cm (3/8") wide, finish edges of allowances together, and press allowances toward sleeve. Topstitch the sleeve, 7 mm (_") from the seam, thereby catching the seam allowances.
Step 8: HEM BAND Stitch ends of hem band piece together to form a ring. Press seam open. Fold hem band in half lengthwise, wrong side facing in. Pin attachment edges together. With a straight pin, mark a point exactly opposite the seam. Pin hem band to lower edge of hoodie, right sides facing, stretch-ing hem band slightly and matching seam and straight pin to the side seams. Stitch hem band in place. Trim allowances to 7 mm (_") wide and finish edges together. Turn hem band down.
Step 9: SEW THE HOOD Lay hood pieces together, right sides facing. Pin, then stitch the centre seam. Press seam allowances to one side. Trim the lower allowance to 5 mm (3/16") wide. Turn the edge of the upper allowance under and pin it in place. Edge stitch this allowance in place. Insert eyelets in front edge of hood as marked, following the manufacturer's instructions and catching small pieces of fabric on the wrong side of the hood, to prevent the eyelets from tearing the fabric. Trim the edges of these fabric pieces, close to the eyelets.
Step 10: SEW THE HOOD Fold the self-facing on the front edge of the hood to the inside, along the marked fold line, turn the raw edge under, and baste the self-facing in place for a finished width of 2 cm (_"). Edge stitch the self-facing in place. Pin the left front hood edge to the right front hood edge, matching the centre fronts. Baste the lower edges together.
Step 11: ATTACH THE HOOD Mark the centers of the front and back neck edges of the sweatshirt with straight pins. Pin the hood to the neck edge, right sides facing, matching the centers and matching the seam marks on the hood to the seam marks on the sleeves. Stitch hood in place. Finish edges of seam allowances together and press allowances down. Topstitch the sweatshirt 7 mm (_") from the hood attachment seam, thereby catching the allowances.
Step 12: CORD Wrap adhesive tape tightly around one cord end. Slide this end of the cord through one eyelet, along the front edge of the hood, and out through the second eyelet. Trim away the end with the adhesive tape. Knot cord ends.
FINISHED!
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