Sewing Lesson: Pajama Set 01/2019
1
Jan
Refer to the pattern’s store page for specific fabric yardage and notion requirements. Also remember to add seam allowance (you can either add to the paper pattern before cutting or to the fabric around the pattern… see below), further info and amounts can be found in the instructions PDF after purchase.
STEP 1: CUT OUT FABRIC PIECES First mark the centre of the fabric, between the selvages. Then fold the selvages to the marked centre, right fabric side facing in. Pin pattern pieces 1 and 2 to the fabric, on the folds. With a ruler and tailor’s chalk, mark the seam and hem allowances, as follows: 2 cm (_") for the hem and sleeve hem and 1.5 cm (5/8") at all other seams and edges. Fold the remaining fabric in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin pattern pieces 3, 4, and 5 in place as shown. Add seam and hem allowances. Cut out fabric pieces.
STEP 2: INTERFACING Fold edges of interfacing to centre as illustrated, adhesive side facing in. Pin pattern pieces 4 and 5 to the fabric, on the folds. Add 1.5 cm (5/8") wide seam allowances. Cut out pieces. Iron interfacing pieces to wrong sides of facing pieces. Fold interfaced pieces in half again, right side facing in, and pin pattern pieces in place again.
STEP 3: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS On all fabric pieces, use dressmaker’s carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and also the seam marks and shirring lines to the wrong side of the fabric. Follow the instructions included with the carbon paper.
STEP 4: TIPS FOR SEWING JERSEY When sewing fine knit fabrics, use a special machine needle for stretch or jersey fabrics. These needles have rounded points which won't damage knit fabrics. To maintain the elasticity of the fabric, stitch seams with a narrow zigzag stitch. Stitch hem and seam allowances in place with a twin machine needle (see also Step 11). Finish the edges of seam allowances with an overlock stitch or zigzag stitch.
STEP 5: ELASTIC SHIRRING Working from the wrong sides of the front and back pieces, zigzag stitch over elastic thread, along marked lines. Please note: The zigzag stitch should be as narrow as possible without catching the elastic thread. It must remain possible to pull the elastic thread. Then stitch two more rows of shirring, spaced 1.8 cm (_") apart. Leave threads hanging on the side edges.
STEP 6: SHOULDER SEAMS Lay front piece on back piece, right sides facing. Pin shoulder seams, matching seam number (1). Stitch seams as pinned. Tie-off ends of seams with backstitching. Finish edges of seam allowances and press seams open.
STEP 7: NECK EDGE /FACING Lay the front facing piece on back facing piece, right sides together. Pin shoulder edges together. Stitch shoulder seams. Press seams open. Finish the outer facing edge. Pin the facing to the neck edge, right sides together, matching the shoulder seams. Stitch the facing in place. Trim the seam allowances. Clip the allowances along the curves. At center front, clip the allowances close to the stitching (arrow).
STEP 8: TURN FACING TO INSIDE Turn the facing to the inside. Baste the seamed edge and press. Topstitch 2 cm (_") from the neck edge, thereby catching the facing.
STEP 9: SIDE SEAMS / SLEEVE SEAMS Lay the front piece on the back piece, right sides facing. Pin, then stitch the side seams, making sure to not catch the elastic threads. Fold each sleeve lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin, then stitch the sleeve seams. At each seam, trim the seam allowances to 7 mm (_") wide, finish the edges of the allowances together, and press the allowances to one side.
STEP 10: SET IN SLEEVES Pin each sleeve to armhole edge, right sides facing. The seam marks (4) on sleeve and front piece must match. The sleeve seam and side seam must match. The seam mark on the sleeve cap must meet the shoulder seam. Baste, then stitch the sleeve in place. Trim seam allowances and finish edges of allowances together. In the area of the sleeve cap, press allowances toward the sleeve.
STEP 11: HEM / SLEEVE HEMS Finish the lower edge. Press the hem allowance to the wrong side and pin in place. Attach the twin needle to the machine. Thread the needle with threads from two spools. Work from the outer side and use the twin needle to stitch 1.5 cm (5/8") from the lower edge with two upper threads and one bobbin thread. The bobbin thread forms zigzag stitches, to maintain the elasticity of the fabric.
STEP 12: ELASTIC SHIRRING Pull all threads to the inside. On each line of stitching, knot the upper and bobbin threads together. Pull the elastic threads from both sides, to achieve a comfortable waist width. For each line of stitching, knot the front and back threads together.
FINISHED!
STEP 1: CUT OUT FABRIC PIECES Fold the fabric in half lengthwise, right side facing in, matching the selvages. Pin pattern pieces to the fabric as shown in the cutting layout. With a ruler and tailor’s chalk, mark the seam and hem allowances, as follows: 1.5 cm (5/8") at all seams and edges. Next draw the measured pieces on the fabric, with a ruler and tailor’s chalk. Then cut out all fabric pieces.
STEP 2: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS On all fabric pieces, use dressmaker’s carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and also the seam marks and placement lines to the wrong side of the fabric. Follow the instructions included with the carbon paper. On each hip yoke piece, hand baste along the placement line to make it visible on the right side of the fabric.
STEP 3: TIPS FOR SEWING JERSEY When sewing fine knit fabrics, use a special machine needle for stretch or jersey fabrics. These needles have rounded points which won't damage knit fabrics. To maintain the elasticity of the fabric, stitch seams with a narrow zigzag stitch. Finish the edges of seam allowances with an overlock stitch or zigzag stitch.
STEP 4: HIP YOKE POCKETS Pin each pocket piece to pocket opening edge of front piece, right sides facing, matching seam numbers (1). Stitch edges together as shown. Trim seam allowances. Open pocket piece toward side, press seam allowances toward pocket piece, and understitch in place.Turn pocket piece to inside. Baste pocket opening edge and press.
STEP 5: PIN POCKET OPENING EDGES TO HIP YOKE PIECES Pin each front piece to hip yoke piece so that the pocket opening edge meets the marked placement line. The right fabric sides of pocket piece and hip yoke piece are facing. Pin pocket opening edge in place.
STEP 6: STITCH POCKET EDGES TOGETHER Working from the inside, pin each pocket piece to hip yoke piece, making sure to not catch the front piece. Stitch pocket edges together. Trim seam allowances to 7 mm (_") wide and finish edges of allowances together. Baste pocket to the upper and side edges of the front piece.
STEP 7: SIDE SEAMS / INNER LEG SEAMS Lay front pieces on back pieces, right sides facing. Pin side seams, matching seam numbers (2), and pin inner leg seams, matching seam numbers (3). Stitch seams as pinned. Finish edges of seam allowances and press seams open.
STEP 8: CENTER SEAM Turn one leg right side out. Pull this leg into the second leg, right sides facing. Pin the centre seam, matching the inner leg seams. Stitch the centre seam from the upper front edge to upper back edge. Finish edges of seam allowances. Press seam open from upper front and back edges to beginnings of crotch curve.
STEP 9: WAISTBAND / SIDE SEAMS Lay front waistband piece on back waistband piece, right sides facing. Pin narrow edges together. Stitch left side seam. For the right side seam, mark the waistband centre then mark 1.2 cm (_") above the centre and again 1.2 cm (_") above the second mark. Stitch right side seam from one edge to centre, leaving an opening for the tie band, as marked. Tie-off ends of seams. Press side seams open, pressing allowances on open edges to wrong side. Fold waistband in half lengthwise, wrong side facing in.
STEP 10: WAISTBAND ELASTIC CASING Pin open long edges of waistband together to upper edge of pajama bottoms, matching side seams. The opening lies on outside at right side seam. Stitch waistband in place. Finish edges of allowances together. Turn waistband up. To form elastic casings, topstitch waistband twice lengthwise, spaced 1.2 cm (_") apart. Pull elastic into upper and lower casings, using a safety pin as bodkin. Sew ends of each elastic together by hand.
STEP 11: TIE BAND Fold each tie band piece in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Stitch 7 mm (_") from fold edge. Thread threads in a darning needle and knot securely. Push needle through fabric tube, eye end first, to turn tube right side out. Overlap ends of tie bands by 1.5 cm (5/8") and stitch together with zigzag stitch. Using a safety pin as bodkin, pull tie band into middle casing of waistband. Knot ends of tie band.
STEP 12: RUFFLES Stitch ends of each ruffle piece together, to form a ring. Trim seam allowances, finish edges together, and press allowances to one side. The lower edge remains unfinished. To gather the upper ruffle edge, machine baste twice, close to seam line. Pull bobbin threads to gather ruffle to match lower leg edge. Knot threads. Pin ruffle to lower leg edge, right sides facing, matching ruffle seam to inner leg seam. Stitch ruffle in place. Trim seam allowances, finish edges together, and press allowances up.
FINISHED!
STEP 1: CUT OUT FABRIC PIECES First mark the centre of the fabric, between the selvages. Then fold the selvages to the marked centre, right fabric side facing in. Pin pattern pieces 1 and 2 to the fabric, on the folds. With a ruler and tailor’s chalk, mark the seam and hem allowances, as follows: 2 cm (_") for the hem and sleeve hem and 1.5 cm (5/8") at all other seams and edges. Fold the remaining fabric in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin pattern pieces 3, 4, and 5 in place as shown. Add seam and hem allowances. Cut out fabric pieces.
STEP 2: INTERFACING Fold edges of interfacing to centre as illustrated, adhesive side facing in. Pin pattern pieces 4 and 5 to the fabric, on the folds. Add 1.5 cm (5/8") wide seam allowances. Cut out pieces. Iron interfacing pieces to wrong sides of facing pieces. Fold interfaced pieces in half again, right side facing in, and pin pattern pieces in place again.
STEP 3: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS On all fabric pieces, use dressmaker’s carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and also the seam marks and shirring lines to the wrong side of the fabric. Follow the instructions included with the carbon paper.
STEP 4: TIPS FOR SEWING JERSEY When sewing fine knit fabrics, use a special machine needle for stretch or jersey fabrics. These needles have rounded points which won't damage knit fabrics. To maintain the elasticity of the fabric, stitch seams with a narrow zigzag stitch. Stitch hem and seam allowances in place with a twin machine needle (see also Step 11). Finish the edges of seam allowances with an overlock stitch or zigzag stitch.
STEP 5: ELASTIC SHIRRING Working from the wrong sides of the front and back pieces, zigzag stitch over elastic thread, along marked lines. Please note: The zigzag stitch should be as narrow as possible without catching the elastic thread. It must remain possible to pull the elastic thread. Then stitch two more rows of shirring, spaced 1.8 cm (_") apart. Leave threads hanging on the side edges.
STEP 6: SHOULDER SEAMS Lay front piece on back piece, right sides facing. Pin shoulder seams, matching seam number (1). Stitch seams as pinned. Tie-off ends of seams with backstitching. Finish edges of seam allowances and press seams open.
STEP 7: NECK EDGE /FACING Lay the front facing piece on back facing piece, right sides together. Pin shoulder edges together. Stitch shoulder seams. Press seams open. Finish the outer facing edge. Pin the facing to the neck edge, right sides together, matching the shoulder seams. Stitch the facing in place. Trim the seam allowances. Clip the allowances along the curves. At center front, clip the allowances close to the stitching (arrow).
STEP 8: TURN FACING TO INSIDE Turn the facing to the inside. Baste the seamed edge and press. Topstitch 2 cm (_") from the neck edge, thereby catching the facing.
STEP 9: SIDE SEAMS / SLEEVE SEAMS Lay the front piece on the back piece, right sides facing. Pin, then stitch the side seams, making sure to not catch the elastic threads. Fold each sleeve lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin, then stitch the sleeve seams. At each seam, trim the seam allowances to 7 mm (_") wide, finish the edges of the allowances together, and press the allowances to one side.
STEP 10: SET IN SLEEVES Pin each sleeve to armhole edge, right sides facing. The seam marks (4) on sleeve and front piece must match. The sleeve seam and side seam must match. The seam mark on the sleeve cap must meet the shoulder seam. Baste, then stitch the sleeve in place. Trim seam allowances and finish edges of allowances together. In the area of the sleeve cap, press allowances toward the sleeve.
STEP 11: HEM / SLEEVE HEMS Finish the lower edge. Press the hem allowance to the wrong side and pin in place. Attach the twin needle to the machine. Thread the needle with threads from two spools. Work from the outer side and use the twin needle to stitch 1.5 cm (5/8") from the lower edge with two upper threads and one bobbin thread. The bobbin thread forms zigzag stitches, to maintain the elasticity of the fabric.
STEP 12: ELASTIC SHIRRING Pull all threads to the inside. On each line of stitching, knot the upper and bobbin threads together. Pull the elastic threads from both sides, to achieve a comfortable waist width. For each line of stitching, knot the front and back threads together.
FINISHED!
STEP 1: CUT OUT FABRIC PIECES Fold the fabric in half lengthwise, right side facing in, matching the selvages. Pin pattern pieces to the fabric as shown in the cutting layout. With a ruler and tailor’s chalk, mark the seam and hem allowances, as follows: 1.5 cm (5/8") at all seams and edges. Next draw the measured pieces on the fabric, with a ruler and tailor’s chalk. Then cut out all fabric pieces.
STEP 2: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS On all fabric pieces, use dressmaker’s carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and also the seam marks and placement lines to the wrong side of the fabric. Follow the instructions included with the carbon paper. On each hip yoke piece, hand baste along the placement line to make it visible on the right side of the fabric.
STEP 3: TIPS FOR SEWING JERSEY When sewing fine knit fabrics, use a special machine needle for stretch or jersey fabrics. These needles have rounded points which won't damage knit fabrics. To maintain the elasticity of the fabric, stitch seams with a narrow zigzag stitch. Finish the edges of seam allowances with an overlock stitch or zigzag stitch.
STEP 4: HIP YOKE POCKETS Pin each pocket piece to pocket opening edge of front piece, right sides facing, matching seam numbers (1). Stitch edges together as shown. Trim seam allowances. Open pocket piece toward side, press seam allowances toward pocket piece, and understitch in place.Turn pocket piece to inside. Baste pocket opening edge and press.
STEP 5: PIN POCKET OPENING EDGES TO HIP YOKE PIECES Pin each front piece to hip yoke piece so that the pocket opening edge meets the marked placement line. The right fabric sides of pocket piece and hip yoke piece are facing. Pin pocket opening edge in place.
STEP 6: STITCH POCKET EDGES TOGETHER Working from the inside, pin each pocket piece to hip yoke piece, making sure to not catch the front piece. Stitch pocket edges together. Trim seam allowances to 7 mm (_") wide and finish edges of allowances together. Baste pocket to the upper and side edges of the front piece.
STEP 7: SIDE SEAMS / INNER LEG SEAMS Lay front pieces on back pieces, right sides facing. Pin side seams, matching seam numbers (2), and pin inner leg seams, matching seam numbers (3). Stitch seams as pinned. Finish edges of seam allowances and press seams open.
STEP 8: CENTER SEAM Turn one leg right side out. Pull this leg into the second leg, right sides facing. Pin the centre seam, matching the inner leg seams. Stitch the centre seam from the upper front edge to upper back edge. Finish edges of seam allowances. Press seam open from upper front and back edges to beginnings of crotch curve.
STEP 9: WAISTBAND / SIDE SEAMS Lay front waistband piece on back waistband piece, right sides facing. Pin narrow edges together. Stitch left side seam. For the right side seam, mark the waistband centre then mark 1.2 cm (_") above the centre and again 1.2 cm (_") above the second mark. Stitch right side seam from one edge to centre, leaving an opening for the tie band, as marked. Tie-off ends of seams. Press side seams open, pressing allowances on open edges to wrong side. Fold waistband in half lengthwise, wrong side facing in.
STEP 10: WAISTBAND ELASTIC CASING Pin open long edges of waistband together to upper edge of pajama bottoms, matching side seams. The opening lies on outside at right side seam. Stitch waistband in place. Finish edges of allowances together. Turn waistband up. To form elastic casings, topstitch waistband twice lengthwise, spaced 1.2 cm (_") apart. Pull elastic into upper and lower casings, using a safety pin as bodkin. Sew ends of each elastic together by hand.
STEP 11: TIE BAND Fold each tie band piece in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Stitch 7 mm (_") from fold edge. Thread threads in a darning needle and knot securely. Push needle through fabric tube, eye end first, to turn tube right side out. Overlap ends of tie bands by 1.5 cm (5/8") and stitch together with zigzag stitch. Using a safety pin as bodkin, pull tie band into middle casing of waistband. Knot ends of tie band.
STEP 12: RUFFLES Stitch ends of each ruffle piece together, to form a ring. Trim seam allowances, finish edges together, and press allowances to one side. The lower edge remains unfinished. To gather the upper ruffle edge, machine baste twice, close to seam line. Pull bobbin threads to gather ruffle to match lower leg edge. Knot threads. Pin ruffle to lower leg edge, right sides facing, matching ruffle seam to inner leg seam. Stitch ruffle in place. Trim seam allowances, finish edges together, and press allowances up.
FINISHED!
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