Sewing Lesson: Jersey Top #119 07/2018
Refer to "the pattern’s store page here"for specific fabric yardage and notion requirements. Also remember to add seam allowance (you can either add to the paper pattern before cutting or to the fabric around the pattern… see below), further info and amounts can be found in the instructions PDF after purchase.
Fabric Steps 1 2
Step 1: CUT FABRIC PIECES Fold fabric in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin paper pattern pieces to the fabric as shown in the cutting layout. Pin pattern piece 1 to the fabric, with its printed side facing down. Place pieces 1 and 2 on the fabric fold. With a ruler and tailor’s chalk, draw 1.5 cm (5/8") wide seam allowances and 3 cm (11/4") wide hem allowances on the fabric. Finally, draw the measured piece (a) on the fabric. Cut out all fabric pieces. Step 2: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS TO THE FABRIC On all fabric pieces, use dressmaker’s carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and also the slit marks and seam marks to the wrong side of the fabric. Follow the instructions included with the carbon paper. In addition, mark the centres of the front and back neck edges each with a small chalk mark on the wrong side of the fabric.
Step 3
Step 3: TIPS FOR WORKING WITH JERSEY When working with fine knits, use a stretch or jersey needle in your machine. These needles have rounded points which won't damage the fabric. To maintain the fabric's elasticity, stitch seams with a narrow zigzag stitch. Trim seam allowances to 7 mm (1/4") wide. Then finish edges of both allowances together, with an overlock or zigzag stitch. Press allowances to one side. To stitch the hem, use a twin machine needle (see Step 12).
Step 4
Step 4: SIDE SEAMS Lay front piece on back piece, right sides facing. Pin side seams. Stitch side seams. Trim seam allowances to 7 mm (1/4") wide, finish edges of allowances together, and press allowances toward back.
Step 5
Step 5: SLEEVES WITH TIE BANDS On each sleeve facing piece, finish angled edge. Pin each facing piece to cut-on tie band on sleeve piece, right sides together. Stitch edges together as illustrated. Trim seam allowances, angling toward ends of seam. Trim across the point, leaving 3 mm (1/8"). Finish edges of allow-ances on upper sleeve seam edges and slit edges, ending at the facing.
Step 6
Step 6: UPPER SLEEVE SEAMS Turn sleeve facings to inside and press seamed edges. Lay each sleeve front on sleeve back, right sides facing. Pin upper sleeve seam, matching seam numbers (4). Stitch seam, ending at slit mark (arrow). Tie-off end of seam with backstitching. Press seam open and press allowances on slit edges to wrong side.
Step 7
Step 7: LOWER SLEEVE SEAMS Lay each sleeve front on sleeve back, right sides facing. Pin lower sleeve seam and stitch seam. Trim seam allowances to 7 mm (1/4") wide, fi nish edges of allowances together, and press allowances toward one side.
Step 8
Step 8: SLEEVE HEMS /TOPSTITCH EDGES Finish lower edge of each sleeve. Press hem allowance to inside and pin in place. Topstitch 1 cm (3/8") from lower sleeve edge and from edges of tie and slit, stitching horizontally across upper end of slit.
Step 9
Step 9: SET IN SLEEVES Pin each sleeve to armhole edge, right sides facing. Lower sleeve seam and side seam must match. The seam marks (1) on sleeve and front piece must match. Stitch sleeve in place. Trim seam allowances to 7 mm (1/4") wide and finish edges of allowances together. Beginning at neck edge, press allowances of upper seam sections toward sleeve, approx. 10 cm (4") long.
Step 10
Step 10: NECK BAND Fold neck band piece in half, right side facing in, matching narrow edges. Stitch narrow edges together, with 1.5 cm (5/8") wide seam allowance. Trim seam allowances. Press seam open. Fold band in half lengthwise, wrong side facing in. Pin open edges together.
Step 11
Step 11: ATTACH NECK BAND Pin neck band to neck edge, right sides facing, stretching the neck band slightly. The open edges of the neck band meet edge of seam allowance and neck band seam meets one back sleeve attachment seam. Stitch neck band in place. Trim seam allowances to 7 mm (1/4") wide and finish edges of allowances together. Turn neck band toward neck opening and press seam allowances away from band.
Step 12
Step 12: STITCH HEM IN PLACE Finish lower edge of the top. Press hem allowance to inside and pin in place. Attach a twin needle to your machine. Working from the outer side, stitch 2.5 cm (1") from lower edge, catching the hem. With a twin needle, you stitch straight stitch with two upper threads and one bobbin thread. The bobbin thread forms zigzag stitches which prevent the edge from stretching and forms an elastic seam. Tip: First practice with a twin needle on a scrap of fabric. It may help to loosen thread tension and use a longer stitch setting.
Finished Shirt