How to Sew an Exposed Zipper
Step 1
Lay the back pieces right sides up.
Step 2
"This pattern" has a little notch to indicate the bottom of the zipper. When adding the seam allowance, make sure to keep this different in center back edges!
Step 3
Cut two small squares each 1 5/8" x 1 5/8" out of lining. Use a matching colored lining, I used a darker color so you can see it better in pictures!
Step 4
Pin each lining square matching up the corners of the back edge with the square.
Step 5
This is right sides together with the skirt.
Step 6
Using a fabric marking pen (this one disappears with heat) to mark the seam allowances onto the lining/facings. Mark 5/8" down from the notch and 5/8" from the upper/zipper back edge.
Step 7
Stitch from the seam allowance line to the back edge.
Step 8
Backstitch at the edges.
Step 9
Stitch each side.
Step 10
Then clip into each corner right to the seamline.
Step 11
Flip each facing to the wrong side and give a good press - this will also make the markings go away.
Step 12
View from the wrong side.
Step 13
Also press in the allowance (to the wrong side) above the notch where the zipper gets stitched to.
Step 14
Flip back up the facings/linings and pin the lower half of the center back seam below the zipper - pinning from the end of the facings/linings to the hem of the skirt.
Step 15
View of the full seam.
Step 16
Starting at the top of the seam (lower edge of facing/linings) stitch to the hem of the skirt at 5/8" seam allowance.
Step 17
Press the entire seam allowance open and flip down the facing on the wrong side.
Step 18
Secure with a pin to keep down in place and then flip over to the right side.
Step 19
Pin the press side allowance to the zipper tape and match up the finished lower edge of the slit with the bottom of the zipper stop.
Step 20
Working from the right side stitch about 1/8" from the pressed edge starting at the top.
Step 21
Pivot at the base.
Step 22
Then stitch up the other side of the zipper.
Step 23
View of the bottom of the zipper!
Step 24
Depending on the pattern the waistband/waist facing will be sewed up before or after zipper installation.
Step 25
View from the wrong side: If you have a lining, stitch the lining from the skirt hem to the end of the zipper and press allowances to the wrong side for the zipper opening and hand stitching around the zipper from the wrong side.