Sewing Techniques with Burda: Lapped Zipper

This way of inserting a zip fastener is frequently used in ready-to-­wear models. It is always stitched with a machine. The seam allowance at the slit edges should be at least 2 cm (3/4 in) wide. In this tutorial, we explain step-by-step how to easily sew a hidden zipper under a seam.

Here’s how:

 1.  To have perfect slit edges, first baste the slit together as if it were a seam. Or, for best results, use long stitches to close it with the machine (1).

 2.  At one slit edge (for a side closure, this would be the front edge and for a back closure, this would be the left side), fold the allowance to the inside and baste. Press. Clip the allowance of the other edge approx. 2 cm (3/4 in) below the slit notch up to the seam line (2).

 3.  Baste the zipper to the seam allowance with the upper side facing down so that the teeth are on the marked seam line. With the one-sided edge stitching foot, stitch the zipper ribbon that is on the seam allowance next to the teeth (3).

4.  Fold and press the seam allowance and zipper ribbon to the inside along the line of stitching. Pin the slit closed so that the folded slit edge meets the marked seam line (4).

 5.  Baste the edge to the zipper ribbon (5).

 6.  Open the zipper and stitch, stopping approximately 5 cm (2 in) away from the slit end. Close the zipper, stitch to the slit end, and then stitch crosswise to the slit edge (6).

And there you have it! You now know how to easily and professionally sew a hidden zipper under a seam!