Sewing lesson: #116 Wool Coat 12/2020

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Sewing lesson: #116 Wool Coat 12/2020
By Burdastyle January 4, 2021 No comments

Your first coat? No problem! If you follow this sewing instructions below to make our wool coat - you will have sucess and no one will believe you made your own outerwear...

 

STEP 1: CUT OUT PIECES FROM FABRIC I AND FABRIC II

STEP 1: CUT OUT PIECES FROM FABRIC I AND FABRIC II

 

Fold both fabrics in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin the paper pattern pieces to the fabric as shown in the pattern layout, with pieces 28 to 31 on fabric II. Use the hand gauge and tailor's chalk to mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam allowances and 4 cm (1 5/8") hem allowance on the fabric round the edges of the paper pattern pieces, also on piece 31. Cut out the pieces. Unfold the remaining fabric to cut out the sleeve bands last.

 

STEP 2: CUT OUT THE INTERFACING

STEP 2: CUT OUT THE INTERFACING

 

Fold the interfacing in half as illustrated, adhesive side facing in. Pin on pieces 25, 26 and 31 as illustrated. Use pencil to mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam allowances at the edges. Cut out the pieces and iron on the wrong side of the fabric pieces. Also cut strips of interfacing 4 cm (15/8") wide and iron on hem allowance of lower front and back pieces.

 

STEP 3: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS

STEP 3: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS

 

Pin on the pattern pieces again. Use dress maker's carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and all other markings to the wrong side of the pieces. Follow the instructions included with the carbon paper. Use basting thread to transfer hem lines, pocket abutting lines, fold lines and centre front to the right side of the fabric.

 

STEP 4: CUT OUT THE LINING

STEP 4: CUT OUT THE LINING

 

Fold the lining in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin pieces 21 and 28 at the selvedges as shown in the pattern layout. Use tailor's chalk to mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam allowances round the edges of the paper pattern pieces. Cut out the pieces. Unfold the fabric. Pin the sleeves to the fabric once printed side facing up and once printed side facing down. Cut with 1.5 cm (5/8") seam allowance. Fold the selvedges of the remaining fabric in to the centre as shown in the layout. Pin pieces 22, 23 and 29 at the fold and cut with 1.5 cm (5/8") seam allowance.

 

STEP 5: BUST DARTS / POCKETS

STEP 5:  BUST DARTS / POCKETS

 

Stitch bust darts toward points and press down. Neaten pocket edges. Press upper pocket edge to inside on fold line. Use buttonhole thread to topstitch edge 2.5 cm (1") wide. Turn remaining allowances to inside, baste. Pin pockets on fronts at abutting lines and stitch close to edges. Backstitch to secure ends of stitching.

 

STEP 6: BACK YOKE

STEP 6:  BACK YOKE

 

Pin yoke right sides together with back and stitch (seam number 1). Press allow ances onto yoke. Use buttonhole thread to topstitch yoke 7 mm (1/4") next to joining seam, catching allowances.

 

STEP 7: STITCH ON LOWER PIECES / SLEEVE BANDS

STEP 7:  STITCH ON LOWER PIECES / SLEEVE BANDS

 

Pin lower front pieces right sides together with front pieces (seam number 3) and stitch. Press allowances open. Stitch lower back piece to back piece likewise (seam number 2). Pin sleeve bands right sides together with sleeves (seam number 8) and stitch. Press allowances open.

 

STEP 8: SHOULDER SEAMS

STEP 8:  SHOULDER SEAMS

 

Lay fronts right sides together with back. Pin shoulder seams (seam number 4) and stitch. Press allowances open.

 

STEP 9: STITCH SLEEVES

STEP 9: STITCH SLEEVES

 

Pin sleeve right sides together with upper edge of front and back, matching marking with shoulder seams. Stitch sleeves from corner on front to back yoke joining seam. Backstitch to secure ends of stitching. Clip front and back pieces in corners close to each last stitch.

 

STEP 10: STITCH SLEEVES

STEP 10: STITCH SLEEVES

 

Stitch remaining front sleeve edges to front as far as side edge, matching markings 10. Stitch remaining back sleeve edge to back likewise. Backstitch to secure ends of stitching. Press allowances onto front and back. Topstitch 7 mm (1/4") next to sleeve inset seams.

 

STEP 11: SLEEVE SEAMS AND SIDE SEAMS

STEP 11: SLEEVE SEAMS AND SIDE SEAMS

 

Lay fronts right sides together with back, fold sleeves lengthwise. Pin sleeve seams and side seams (seam number 7 and 9). Match ends of seams on sleeve band and sleeve inset seam. Stitch seams. Press allowances open. Turn sleeve bands to inside on fold line, lay over joining seam and baste. Work from outside of garment to stitch in line of slee

 

STEP 12: CONSTRUCT LINING

STEP 12: CONSTRUCT LINING

 

Stitch front and back pieces together, stitch on yoke. Neaten allowances together and press to one side. Stitch side seams. Neaten allowances together and press onto back. Press allowance (which is actually 1.5 cm / 5/8" wide) at lower edge of lining to inside by 3 cm (1 1/4"), turn half in and then pin and stitch a narrow hem.

 

STEP 13: STITCHING FACINGS

STEP 13: STITCHING FACINGS

 

Stitch lower front facings to front facings (seam number 5). Press allowances open. Lay front facings on front lining pieces with wrong side facing right side and baste. The lining is 1.5 cm (5/8") shorter than the marked hem line on the facing (arrow). Stitch on inside facing edge. Pin back facing at back edge of neckline and stitch. Baste narrow fabric tape over edges of facing and stitch close to edges.

 

STEP 14: STITCH FACING WITH LINING

STEP 14: STITCH FACING WITH LINING

 

Stitch shoulder seams on lining pieces with facings (seam number 6). Press allowances open. Construct sleeve linings and set in. Pin facing right sides together with coat, matching seams. Baste front edges and neckline edges together and stitch. Trim allowances, clip curves, trim corners at an angle.

 

STEP 15: SEW HEM

STEP 15: SEW HEM

 

Press allowances onto front facings and stitch as far as possible close to seam. Neaten hem allowance, turn to inside and baste. Press edge. Sew hem loosely by hand.

 

STEP 16: TURN FACING TO INSIDE

STEP 16: TURN FACING TO INSIDE

 

Turn facing with lining to inside. Lay lining inside coat with wrong sides facing. Baste edge, press. Sew lower facing edges and hem edges together by hand.

 

STEP 17: SEW ON LINING AT SLEEVES

STEP 17: SEW ON LINING AT SLEEVES

 

Place sleeve linings inside sleeves of coat. Turn in lower edges of sleeve linings and sew on at allowance on inside edge of sleeve bands.

 

STEP 18: SNAP FASTENERS

STEP 18: SNAP FASTENERS

 

The x for the snap fasteners on piece 25 are marked for size 36 only. The bottom x is the same for all sizes. Move the top x up for sizes 38 to 44 according to edge of neckline. Space remaining three fasteners evenly in between. Transfer the x from the paper pattern piece to the facing of the right front and to the left front (in center front). Sew top halves of snaps on facing, taking even stitches and exiting needle on right side of garment. Sew bottom halves of snaps on left front, catching facing.

 

FINISHED!

FINISHED!

 

At first glance, the cut looks simple – it enables the patchwork effect to take centre stage. You can see the modern details at second glance: a shaped top section and deep drop shoulders

 

#How-to Posted in: How-To