Sewing lesson: #104 VISCOSE MINI DRESS 07/2021

For those airy summer days, this dress is perfect and below you will find step-by-step how to create one for your wardrobe. This dress finishes just above the knee, and the neckline can be worn tied or open, depending on your mood. Get out a fun printed fabric and read on to see the sewing lesson...

 

STEP 1: CUT OUT THE FABRIC

STEP 1: CUT OUT THE FABRIC

 

Fold the fabric in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin paper the pattern pieces to the fab-ric as shown in the pattern layout. Use tailor's chalk to mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam allowances at the edges of the paper pattern pieces except on piece 3 and at upper edge of front pieces, sleeves and back piece (= edge of neckline). Cut out the pieces on these lines. No allowance is required at the neckline since this edge will have binding.

 

STEP 2: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS

STEP 2: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS

 

Before you remove the pattern pieces from the fabric, use dress maker's carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and all other markings to the wrong side of the pieces. Follow the instructions included with the carbon paper.

 

STEP 3: CENTRE FRONT SEAM / SLIT

STEP 3: CENTRE FRONT SEAM / SLIT

 

Lay fronts right sides together. Baste centre seam, also basting slit. Stitch seam from slit mark to lower edges. Backstitch to secure ends of stitching. Neaten allowances and press open, baste at neckline. Undo basting. Topstitch close to edges of slit.

 

STEP 4: SIDE SEAMS

STEP 4: SIDE SEAMS

 

Lay front right sides together with back. Pin side seams (seam number 1) and stitch. Trim al-lowances, neaten together and press to one side.

 

STEP 5: SLEEVES

STEP 5: SLEEVES

 

Pin dart on sleeve and stitch toward point of dart. Knot threads. Trim allowances to 7 mm (1/4"), neaten together and press onto back. Fold sleeves lengthwise, right side facing in. Stitch sleeve seams (seam number 2). Trim allowances to 7 mm (1/4"), neaten together and press to one side.

 

STEP 6: LOWER SLEEVE EDGE/ ELASTIC CASING

STEP 6: LOWER SLEEVE EDGE/ ELASTIC CASING

 

Press allowance at lower sleeve edge to inside, turn in to a width of 5 mm (3/16") and pin. Stitch allowance close to edge, leaving an opening to insert elastic. Backstitch to secure ends of stitching. Cut elastic into 2 pieces. Use a safety pin to insert through casings. Sew ends together for a comfort able fit at the wrist. Sew up openings.

 

STEP 7: SETTING IN SLEEVES

STEP 7:  SETTING IN SLEEVES

 

Pin sleeve into armhole with right sides facing (seam number 3). When setting in sleeves, the following points are important for proper fit: Match markings 4 on sleeve and front. Match sleeve seams and side seams. Stitch sleeves. Trim allowances, neaten together and press toward sleeves from upper edges to beginning of underarm curve.

 

STEP 8: GATHER NECKLINE

STEP 8:  GATHER NECKLINE

 

To gather edge of neckline, stitch two lines of machine basting from * to * : 7 mm (1/4") next to edge and again 5 mm (3/16") below. Pull bobbin threads as follows: on fronts for size 36 to 7 cm (23/4"), size 38 to 7.5 cm (3"), sizes 40, 42 to 8 cm (31/4"), size 44 to 8.5 cm (33/8"); on back for size 36 to 11 cm (43/8"), size 38 to 11.5 cm (41/2"), size 40 to 12 cm (43/4"), size 42 to 12.5 cm (5"), size 44 to 13 cm (51/4"); on sleeves for sizes 36, 38, 40 to 12 cm (43/4"), sizes 42, 44 to 12.5 cm (5"). Knot threads.

 

STEP 9: BIND EDGE OF NECKLINE

STEP 9: BIND EDGE OF NECKLINE

 

Mark centre on back piece and on bias strip. Pin bias strip on edge of neckline, matching centres and leaving ends overhanging edges of slit for tie bands. Stitch bias strip 1 cm (3/8") wide. Backstitch to secure ends of stitching.

 

STEP 10: CONSTRUCT TIE BANDS

STEP 10: CONSTRUCT TIE BANDS

 

Fold bands in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin edges together and stitch1 cm (3/8") next to fold edge. Leave a length of thread hang-ing, insert into a darning needle and knot securely. Push needle eye first through fabric tube to turn tie bands right side out.

 

STEP 11: SEW ON BIAS STRIP

STEP 11: SEW ON BIAS STRIP

 

Fold bands in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin edges together and stitch1 cm (3/8") next to fold edge. Leave a length of thread hang-ing, insert into a darning needle and knot securely. Push needle eye first through fabric tube to turn tie bands right side out.

 

STEP 12: SKIRT TIERS

STEP 12: SKIRT TIERS

 

Lay top, middle and bottom skirt tiers each together with right sides facing, stitch side seams. Trim allowances, neaten together and press to one side. Neaten allowance at lower edge of bottom skirt tier, press under and stitch.

 

STEP 13: GATHER SKIRT TIERS

STEP 13: GATHER SKIRT TIERS

 

To gather each skirt tier, stitch a line of machine basting (longest stitch setting) to each side of marked seam line. Interrupt stitching at side seams and leave threads hanging. Pull threads on bottom tier to fit edge to middle tier. Knot threads. Distribute gathers evenly.

 

STEP 14: STITCH SKIRT TIERS TOGETHER

STEP 14: STITCH SKIRT TIERS TOGETHER

 

Pin bottom skirt tier right sides together with middle skirt tier, matching side seam. Stitch bottom skirt tier between lines of gathering. Trim allowances, neaten together and press up. Stitch middle skirt tier to top skirt tier likewise.

 

FINAL STEP: STITCH ON SKIRT

FINAL STEP: STITCH ON SKIRT

 

Pull threads on top skirt tier to fit edge to lower edge of upper dress. Knot threads. Distribute gathers evenly. Pin skirt right sides together with upper dress, matching side seams. Stitch skirt between lines of gathering. Trim allowances, neaten together and press onto upper dress.

 

FINISHED !

FINAL STEP: STITCH ON SKIRT

 

Find this pattern in our collection : Dress #104 07/2021

Tiered dresses are usually hippie-style: long and quite wide. This model is different. It stops temptingly, just above the knee, and the neckline can be worn tied or open, de-pending on your mood. Vary the fabric - do you prefer it graphic, brighter, or more puristic? No problem!