Sewing lesson: #103 Crepe Dress 03/2021

Tucks are welcome here - and in doubles for this dress, better yet secured with buttons. Read on to see how to sew together our Crepe Dress from the March 2021 issue from start to finish...

STEP 1: CUT OUT THE FABRIC

Fold the fabric in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin the paper pattern pieces to the fabric as shown in the pattern layout, pinning pieces 1 and 3 at the fabric fold. Use tailor's chalk to mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam and hem allowances at the edges of the paper pattern pieces. Cut out the pieces on these lines.

STEP 2: CUT OUT THE INTERFACING

Fold the interfacing in half as illustrated, adhesive side facing in. Pin on pieces 3 and 4 as illus-trated. Use pencil and a ruler to mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam allowances at the edges. Cut out the pieces and iron on the wrong side of the facing pieces. Pin on the paper pattern pieces again.

STEP 3: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS

Use dress maker's carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines), pleat lines, notches and slit mark from the pattern pieces to the wrong side of the fabric pieces. Follow the instructions included with the carbon paper.

STEP 4: DARTS

Pin bust darts on front and stitch toward points of darts. Knot threads. Press darts down. Stitch waist darts on back pieces and press to-ward centre back.

STEP 5: FRONT/PLEATS

Fold front piece so that marked pleat lines each meet. Pin lines together and stitch between pleat arrows. Backstitch to seucre ends of stitching. Press pleats toward side edges (just near the seams).

STEP 6: INVISIBLE ZIP FASTENER

Neaten back edges of dress. Pin open zip face down on one back edge of dress with teeth of zip beginning on marked edge of neckline. Use the special presser foot to stitch zip as far as slit mark. Stitch other half of zip on other opening edge likewise.

STEP 7: CENTER BACK SEAM

Close zip slightly. Lay back pieces right sides together. Pin centre seam and stitch from lower edges as far as possible to end of stitching lines at zip. Lay end of zip aside to stitch. Backstitch to secure ends of stitching. Press allowances open .

STEP 8: SHOULDER SEAMS

Lay front right sides together with back. Stitch shoulder seams (seam number 1). Neaten allowances and press open. Also stitch shoulder seams on facings (seam number 2). Press allow-ances open. Neaten outer facing edge.

STEP 9: NECKLINE / FACING

Pin facing right sides together with neckline, matching shoulder seams. Fold back facing edg-es out 0.5 cm (3/16") before opening edges, pin. Fold allowances at back opening edges of dress with zip tapes out and pin over facing edges. Stitch along edge of neckline. Trim allowances, clip curves.

STEP 10: TURN FACING TO INSIDE

Lay facing up. Press allowances onto facing and stitch close to joining seam as far as pos-sible. Turn facing to inside. Baste neckline and press. Sew facing on at allowances of shoulder seams by hand. Sew on back facing edges at zip tapes.

STEP 10: TURN FACING TO INSIDE

STEP 11: SIDE SEAMS

Lay front right sides together with back. Pin side seams (seam number 3) and stitch. Neaten allowances and press open.

STEP 12: SLEEVES

Fold sleeves lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin sleeve seams (seam number 4) and stitch. Neaten allowances and press open.

STEP 13: SETTING IN SLEEVE

Pin sleeve into armhole with right sides facing. When setting in sleeves, the following points are important for proper fit: Match mark-ings 5 on sleeve and front. Match sleeve seams and side seams. Match marking at sleeve cap with shoulder seams. Ease sleeve cap slightly between the •. Stitch sleeves from sleeve side. Neaten allowances together and press toward sleeve at sleeve cap.

STEP 14: HEM

Neaten hem allowance, press to inside and pin. Topstitch lower edge of dress 1.2 cm (1/2") wide, catching hem. Stitch sleeve hems likewise.

STEP 15: BUTTONS

Sew on buttons as marked, catching folds of pleats.

FINISHED!

Sophisticated and clean: Conventional darts at the back add shape to this dress in sunlight yellow and at the front, deep pleats stitched in place at the waist and striking buttons provide the decorative elements.