Here is an easy guide on how to sew the simple and comfortable inset sleeve.
Step 1: Set in the Sleeve
The sleeve is to be inserted either before or after the side and sleeve seams are closed. This will depend on the shape of the sleeve. Find out which technique is best for your model by folding the sleeve so the seam edges line up in the middle. If it is round at the top of the sleeve seam (such as on the left), insert the sleeve in the armhole after the seams are stitched. If it is pointed at the top of the sleeve seam (such as on the right), insert the sleeve in the armhole before stitching the seams as indicated by the following instructions.
Step 2: Pin and Stitch!
Pin the sleeve right sides together over the armhole by making sure to overlap the cross markings on the sleeve and front. Place the sleeve’s shoulder marking on the shoulder seam or the yoke’s shoulder marking. Baste, then stitch the sleeve side.
Step 3: Use an Iron to Help
Use an iron to press the seam allowances open or together. Neaten the seam allowances in the front and back, press together, and stitch them to the right side of the garment. Then stitch the side and sleeve seams.
Step 4: Find Your Markings
Sleeves with a flat or slightly rounded top edge are always inserted before closing the seams. Pin the sleeve to the front and back between the cross markings. Make sure to overlap the sleeve markings and place the sleeve’s shoulder marking on the shoulder seam or the yoke’s shoulder marking. Stitch the sleeve along the sleeve seam line. Secure the beginning and end of the seam with backstitches.
Step 5: Watch Out for the Seam Allowance!
Stitch the side seam by starting at the cross marking. Make sure you do NOT catch the sleeve seam allowances.
Step 6: Iron Once Again
Stitch the sleeve seam by starting at the joining seams. Make sure you do NOT catch the side seam allowances. Press the side seam allowances and sleeve seam allowances open. Press the allowance from the sleeve’s joining sleeves open or neaten together in the front and back.
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