Sewing lesson: #115 V-Neck 02/2020
Sewing lesson: #115 V-Neck 02/2020
This style with a feminine V-neckline and sporty elastic casings at the sleeves is a great project for beginning sewers! See the sewing lesson on how to sew this top #115 from the 02/2020 issue of Burda Style magazine.
STEP 1: CUT OUT THE FABRIC PIECES
Fold the selvedges in to the center, right side facing in. Pin paper pattern pieces 1 and 6 to the fabric as shown in the pattern layout. Use the hand gauge and tailor's chalk to mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam and hem allowances on the fabric. Cut out the pieces. Then fold the remaining fabric in half, right side facing in. Pin on pieces 2, 7 and 8. Mark allowances round all pattern piece edges. Finally, use a ruler and tailor's chalk to mark piece f directly on the fabric. Cut out all the pieces.
STEP 2: CUT OUT THE INTERFACING
Fold interfacing in half, adhesive side facing in. Pin pieces 2 and 8 at the fold as illustrated. Mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam allowances at the edges. Cut out the pieces and iron on the wrong fabric side of the facings.
STEP 3: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS
Fold facings in half, pin on the pattern pieces again. Use dressmaker's carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines), the darts and all other markings to the wrong side of the pieces. Follow the instructions included with the carbon paper.
STEP 4: BUST DARTS
Fold the front so that the dart lines meet. Pin darts and stitch toward points of darts. Knot ends of thread. Press darts down.
STEP 5: SHOULDER SEAMS
Lay front right sides together with back, pin shoulder seams (seam number 1). Stitch, slightly easing back shoulder edges. Neaten allowances and press open. Lay front facing right sides together with back facing, stitch shoulder seams (seam number 2). Press allowances open. Neaten outer facing edge.
STEP 6: NECKLINE / FACING
Pin facing right sides together with neckine, matching shoulder seams. Stitch facing. Trim allowances, clip curves at several intervals close to line of stitching. Clip allowances at point of neckline in centre front (arrow).
STEP 7: TURN FACING TO INSIDE
First press facing into neckline. Stitch allowances to facing close to joining seam as far as possible. This will prevent the facing from slipping out of place on the finished garment and there will be no visible line of stitching on the right side. Then turn facing to inside. Press edge. Sew inside facing edge on at allowances of shoulder seams by hand.
STEP 8: SIDE SEAMS / SLEEVE SEAMS
Lay front right sides together with back. Pin side seams (seam number 3) and stitch. Neaten allowances and press open. Fold sleeves in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin sleeve seams (seam number 5) and stitch. Neaten allowances and press open.
STEP 9: SETTING IN SLEEVES
Pin sleeve into armhole with right sides facing. When setting in sleeves, 3 points are important for proper fit: Match sleeve seam with side seam. Match markings 6 on sleeve and front. Match marking at sleeve cap with shoulder seam. Baste and stitch sleeves. Trim allowances, neaten together and press toward sleeves at sleeve cap.
STEP 10: SLEEVE BANDS
Fold sleeve band pieces (f) each so that narrow edges lie together and right fabric side is facing in. Stitch edges together 6 cm (2 3/8") long (to middle of sleeve band). Backstitch to secure ends of stitching. Press allowances open, go on to press to inside all in one. Fold sleeve bands each to half the width. Baste edges together and pin to lower sleeve edges, matching seams and with opening in seam facing up. Stitch. Trim allowances, neaten together.
STEP 11: INSERT ELASTIC
Use a safety pin as a bodkin to insert elastic to a length as follows for sizes 34 – 36 – 38 – 40 – 42 – 44: 28 – 29 – 30 – 30.5 – 31.5 – 32 cm (11 1/8" - 11 1/2" - 11 1/8" - 11 7/8" - 12" - 12 1/2" - 12 3/4"). Overlap ends of elastic by 1 cm (3/8") sew together by hand. Finally, sew up opening in seam of sleeve band by hand.
STEP 12: HEM
Neaten hem allowance, press to inside and pin. Topstitch lower edge of blouse 1 cm (3/8") wide, catching hem.
Perfect for beginning sewists: The V-neckline, cropped sleeve with elastic finish blouse is a perfect wardrobe staple for all your bright fabrics!