Sewing Lesson: Blouse with Pleat #106 12/2018
1
Sep
Refer to "the pattern’s store page here" for specific fabric yardage and notion requirements. Also remember to add seam allowance (you can either add to the paper pattern before cutting or to the fabric around the pattern… see below), further info and amounts can be found in the instructions PDF after purchase.
STEP 1: CUT FABRIC PIECES Please note for sizes 38 to 46: Before cutting fabric pieces, mark the stitching line for the neck edge pleat on piece 1 the same distance from the line for your size as marked for size 36. Fold fabric in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin paper pattern pieces to the fabric as shown in cutting layout, laying pieces 1, 2, 3, and 5 on the fabric fold. With tailor’s chalk, mark seam and hem allowances, as follows: 1.5 cm (5/8") on all seams and edges. Draw piece a directly on the fabric. Cut out all fabric pieces.
STEP 2: INTERFACING Fold interfacing piece in half, adhesive side facing in. Pin pattern piece 5 to the interfacing, on the fold. Draw 1.5 cm (5/8") wide seam allowances along all edges. Cut out interfacing piece. Iron interfacing piece to wrong side of front facing piece. Fold the interfaced piece in half, right side facing in, and pin the paper pattern piece to the interfaced piece.
STEP 3: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS TO THE FABRIC On all fabric pieces, use dressmaker’s carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and all other pattern markings to the wrong side of the fabric. Follow the instructions included with the carbon paper. Hand baste along the pleat lines on front, back, and sleeve pieces and also along the hem fold line on the sleeve, to make these lines visible on the right side of the fabric.
STEP 4: FRONT PLEAT Please note: The “pleat fold” (Faltenbruch) line, center front line, and stitching line are only needed on the right half of the front. The “left placement” (links Anstoß) line is only needed on the left half of the front (= red lines).
STEP 5: FRONT PLEAT Fold front piece along the marked pleat fold (Faltenbruch) line, right side facing in. At neck edge, stitch edges together as illustrated, ending at marked seam allowance on upper edge. Clip allowances close to last stitch (arrow). Turn right side out. Fold front piece along marked pleat fold line, lay fold edge on “left placement” (links Anstoß) line, and pin in place. Stitch pleat as marked. Tie-off ends of seam with backstitching.
STEP 6: BUST DARTS / STITCH YOKE TO FRONT For each dart, fold front piece so that dart lines meet, right side facing in. Pin dart lines together. Stitch dart from edge to point. Knot threads at point of dart. Press dart down. Pin yoke to shoulder edges of front piece, right sides together, matching seam numbers (2). Stitch edges together as pinned. Trim allowances to 7 mm (_") wide and press allowances toward yoke.
STEP 7: STITCH YOKE TO BACK Working from the outer side, lay pleats in back piece in direction of arrows and pin in place. Pin yoke to back piece, right sides facing, matching seam numbers (1). Stitch yoke to back. Trim seam allowances to 7 mm (_") wide. Press allowances toward yoke.
STEP 8: DOUBLE THE YOKE, ATTACH FRONT FACING On the second yoke piece, press the allowances on the attachment edges to the wrong side. Pin this yoke piece to the attached yoke piece, right sides facing. Finish edges of front facing piece. Pin front facing to front neck edge, right sides together – the shoulder edges lie on the yoke. Stitch facing and yoke to neck edge. Trim seam allowances and clip curves. At centre front, clip allowances close to stitching (arrow).
STEP 9: TURN YOKE AND FACING TO INSIDE AND SEW IN PLACE Turn yoke and front facing to inside. Baste neck edge and press. Baste inner yoke edges to attachment seams and sew in place by hand. If desired, topstitch close to neck edge.
STEP 10: SIDE SEAMS AND SLEEVE SEAMS / BUTTON LOOPS Lay front piece on back piece, right sides facing. Pin, then stitch side seams. Fold each sleeve lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin and stitch sleeve seam. At each seam, trim allowances to 7 mm (_") wide, finish edges together, and press to one side. Fold bias strip for loops in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Stitch 0.5 cm (3/16") from fold edge. Run threads through eye of darning needle and knot securely. Push needle through fabric tube, eye end first, to turn right side out.
STEP 11: SLEEVE HEMS / PLEATS First press allowance on each lower sleeve edge to wrong side (1.5 cm/5/8" wide). Then press sleeve edge to wrong side, along hem fold line, baste in place, and edgestitch in place. Cut bias fabric tube into two equal pieces and lay each piece to a loop. Stitch each loop to marked front pleat line, beginning at stitching line, as illustrated. The loop size must match the button size. Sew each BUTTON in place, as marked by x.
STEP 12: SET IN SLEEVES / HEM Pin each sleeve to armhole edge, right sides facing. The seam marks (5) on sleeve and front piece must match. Sleeve seam and side seam must match. The seam mark on sleeve cap must meet shoulder mark on yoke. Baste sleeve in place, easing the sleeve cap. Stitch sleeve in place. Trim seam allowances and finish edges of allowances together. In area of sleeve cap, press allowances toward sleeve. Press hem allowance to inside and turn raw edge under. Edgestitch hem in place.
FINISHED!
STEP 1: CUT FABRIC PIECES Please note for sizes 38 to 46: Before cutting fabric pieces, mark the stitching line for the neck edge pleat on piece 1 the same distance from the line for your size as marked for size 36. Fold fabric in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin paper pattern pieces to the fabric as shown in cutting layout, laying pieces 1, 2, 3, and 5 on the fabric fold. With tailor’s chalk, mark seam and hem allowances, as follows: 1.5 cm (5/8") on all seams and edges. Draw piece a directly on the fabric. Cut out all fabric pieces.
STEP 2: INTERFACING Fold interfacing piece in half, adhesive side facing in. Pin pattern piece 5 to the interfacing, on the fold. Draw 1.5 cm (5/8") wide seam allowances along all edges. Cut out interfacing piece. Iron interfacing piece to wrong side of front facing piece. Fold the interfaced piece in half, right side facing in, and pin the paper pattern piece to the interfaced piece.
STEP 3: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS TO THE FABRIC On all fabric pieces, use dressmaker’s carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and all other pattern markings to the wrong side of the fabric. Follow the instructions included with the carbon paper. Hand baste along the pleat lines on front, back, and sleeve pieces and also along the hem fold line on the sleeve, to make these lines visible on the right side of the fabric.
STEP 4: FRONT PLEAT Please note: The “pleat fold” (Faltenbruch) line, center front line, and stitching line are only needed on the right half of the front. The “left placement” (links Anstoß) line is only needed on the left half of the front (= red lines).
STEP 5: FRONT PLEAT Fold front piece along the marked pleat fold (Faltenbruch) line, right side facing in. At neck edge, stitch edges together as illustrated, ending at marked seam allowance on upper edge. Clip allowances close to last stitch (arrow). Turn right side out. Fold front piece along marked pleat fold line, lay fold edge on “left placement” (links Anstoß) line, and pin in place. Stitch pleat as marked. Tie-off ends of seam with backstitching.
STEP 6: BUST DARTS / STITCH YOKE TO FRONT For each dart, fold front piece so that dart lines meet, right side facing in. Pin dart lines together. Stitch dart from edge to point. Knot threads at point of dart. Press dart down. Pin yoke to shoulder edges of front piece, right sides together, matching seam numbers (2). Stitch edges together as pinned. Trim allowances to 7 mm (_") wide and press allowances toward yoke.
STEP 7: STITCH YOKE TO BACK Working from the outer side, lay pleats in back piece in direction of arrows and pin in place. Pin yoke to back piece, right sides facing, matching seam numbers (1). Stitch yoke to back. Trim seam allowances to 7 mm (_") wide. Press allowances toward yoke.
STEP 8: DOUBLE THE YOKE, ATTACH FRONT FACING On the second yoke piece, press the allowances on the attachment edges to the wrong side. Pin this yoke piece to the attached yoke piece, right sides facing. Finish edges of front facing piece. Pin front facing to front neck edge, right sides together – the shoulder edges lie on the yoke. Stitch facing and yoke to neck edge. Trim seam allowances and clip curves. At centre front, clip allowances close to stitching (arrow).
STEP 9: TURN YOKE AND FACING TO INSIDE AND SEW IN PLACE Turn yoke and front facing to inside. Baste neck edge and press. Baste inner yoke edges to attachment seams and sew in place by hand. If desired, topstitch close to neck edge.
STEP 10: SIDE SEAMS AND SLEEVE SEAMS / BUTTON LOOPS Lay front piece on back piece, right sides facing. Pin, then stitch side seams. Fold each sleeve lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin and stitch sleeve seam. At each seam, trim allowances to 7 mm (_") wide, finish edges together, and press to one side. Fold bias strip for loops in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Stitch 0.5 cm (3/16") from fold edge. Run threads through eye of darning needle and knot securely. Push needle through fabric tube, eye end first, to turn right side out.
STEP 11: SLEEVE HEMS / PLEATS First press allowance on each lower sleeve edge to wrong side (1.5 cm/5/8" wide). Then press sleeve edge to wrong side, along hem fold line, baste in place, and edgestitch in place. Cut bias fabric tube into two equal pieces and lay each piece to a loop. Stitch each loop to marked front pleat line, beginning at stitching line, as illustrated. The loop size must match the button size. Sew each BUTTON in place, as marked by x.
STEP 12: SET IN SLEEVES / HEM Pin each sleeve to armhole edge, right sides facing. The seam marks (5) on sleeve and front piece must match. Sleeve seam and side seam must match. The seam mark on sleeve cap must meet shoulder mark on yoke. Baste sleeve in place, easing the sleeve cap. Stitch sleeve in place. Trim seam allowances and finish edges of allowances together. In area of sleeve cap, press allowances toward sleeve. Press hem allowance to inside and turn raw edge under. Edgestitch hem in place.
FINISHED!
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