Sewing Lesson: Belted Pullover #111A 02/2019
1
Feb
Refer to the "pattern’s store page" for specific fabric yardage and notion requirements. Also remember to add seam allowance (you can either add to the paper pattern before cutting or to the fabric around the pattern… see below), further info and amounts can be found in the instructions PDF after purchase.
STEP 1: CUT FABRIC PIECES Fold the fabric in half lengthwise, right side facing in and matching the selvedges. Pin the paper pattern pieces to the fabric as shown in the cutting layout. Use a ruler and chalk to mark the seam and hem allowances: 1.5 cm (5/8") for seams and edges, 3.5 cm (1 1/2") for hem and sleeve hem. Then use a ruler to mark the pieces to be cut to measure (a, b) from the fabric fold and mark with chalk. Cut out all the fabric pieces.
STEP 2: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS Use dressmaker's carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and also the seam marks (notches) to the wrong side of the pieces. Follow the instructions included with the carbon paper. Use basting thread along lines for casing on back piece to transfer these lines to the right fabric side.
STEP 3: TIPS ON STRETCH FABRICS To retain the elasticity of the fabric, stitch seams on stretch fabric with a narrow zigzag stitch. Neaten allowances with an overlock stitch or with a zigzag stitch.
STEP 4: STITCH TOGETHER FRONT AND BACK Pin front bands right sides together with front (seam number 1) and stitch. Then stitch front yokes to bands likewise (seam number 2). Stitch back bands and yokes to back (seam number 3 und 4). Trim allowances to 7 mm (1/4") and neaten together. Press all allowances up.
STEP 5: SHOULDER SEAMS / NECKLINE BAND Lay front right sides together with back. Pin shoulder seams (seam number 5) and stitch. Trim allowances to 7 mm (1/4"), neaten together and press onto back. Stitch ends of neckline band piece together 1.5 cm (5/8") wide, right side facing in (= centre back seam). Trim allowances and press open.
STEP 6: PREPARE NECKLINE BAND Fold neckline band in half widthwise, wrong side in. Press fold edge lightly, then unfold and mark centre front. Mark eyelets spaced 3 cm (1 1/4") to each side of centre front and 1.5 cm (5/8") from fold. Follow manufacturer's instructions to attach eyelets. Fold neckline band in half again, pin open edges together.
STEP 7: STITCH ON NECKLINE BAND Use a straight pin to mark centre of neckline on front and back. Pin neckline band (a) to edge of neckline, matching centers and with eyelets lying on front to each side of centre. Stitch neckline band slightly stretched to fi t. Trim allowances to 7 mm (1/4") and neaten together. Lay neckline band up, press allowances onto front and back.
STEP 8: STITCH ON SLEEVES Pin sleeves right sides together with armhole edges. Two points are important: Match marking at top centre of sleeve with shoulder seam. Match markings 6 on sleeve and front. Stitch sleeves. Trim allowances, neaten together and press toward sleeves.
STEP 9: SLEEVE SEAMS AND SIDE SEAMS Lay front right sides together with back. Fold sleeves lengthwise, right side facing in. Now first pin ends of sleeve inset seams together. Then pin and stitch sleeve seams and side seams. Trim allowances, neaten together and press onto front.
STEP 10: BACK DRAWSTRING CASING Neaten casing strip (b) round all edges. Now first press ends to inside by 1.5 cm (5/8") and then long edges. Pin casing strip to back piece at abutting lines so that it ends at side seams. Stitch casing strip close to top and bottom edges. Backstitch to secure ends of stitching.
STEP 11: STITCH HEM Neaten hem allowance and turn to inside, baste. Press edge, pressing extra width at curves fl at. Topstitch lower edge of garment 3 cm (11/4") wide. To keep the edge stretchy, use a twin ma-chine needle for topstitching. You will need two spools of thread. Stitch from the right fabric side with two upper threads and one bobbin thread. The upper threads form parallel lines of stitching. The bobbin thread forms a line of zigzag stitch-ing. Stitch sleeve hems likewise.
STEP 12: INSERT DRAWSTRING Cut 1.00 m (about 40") of 3 cm (1 1/4") wide cotton tape. Turn in ends twice and stitch to prevent them from fraying. Use a safety pin as a bodkin to insert tape at neckline through eyelets. Insert remainder of tape into back casing. Turn in ends, stitch.
FINISHED!
STEP 1: CUT FABRIC PIECES Fold the fabric in half lengthwise, right side facing in and matching the selvedges. Pin the paper pattern pieces to the fabric as shown in the cutting layout. Use a ruler and chalk to mark the seam and hem allowances: 1.5 cm (5/8") for seams and edges, 3.5 cm (1 1/2") for hem and sleeve hem. Then use a ruler to mark the pieces to be cut to measure (a, b) from the fabric fold and mark with chalk. Cut out all the fabric pieces.
STEP 2: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS Use dressmaker's carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and also the seam marks (notches) to the wrong side of the pieces. Follow the instructions included with the carbon paper. Use basting thread along lines for casing on back piece to transfer these lines to the right fabric side.
STEP 3: TIPS ON STRETCH FABRICS To retain the elasticity of the fabric, stitch seams on stretch fabric with a narrow zigzag stitch. Neaten allowances with an overlock stitch or with a zigzag stitch.
STEP 4: STITCH TOGETHER FRONT AND BACK Pin front bands right sides together with front (seam number 1) and stitch. Then stitch front yokes to bands likewise (seam number 2). Stitch back bands and yokes to back (seam number 3 und 4). Trim allowances to 7 mm (1/4") and neaten together. Press all allowances up.
STEP 5: SHOULDER SEAMS / NECKLINE BAND Lay front right sides together with back. Pin shoulder seams (seam number 5) and stitch. Trim allowances to 7 mm (1/4"), neaten together and press onto back. Stitch ends of neckline band piece together 1.5 cm (5/8") wide, right side facing in (= centre back seam). Trim allowances and press open.
STEP 6: PREPARE NECKLINE BAND Fold neckline band in half widthwise, wrong side in. Press fold edge lightly, then unfold and mark centre front. Mark eyelets spaced 3 cm (1 1/4") to each side of centre front and 1.5 cm (5/8") from fold. Follow manufacturer's instructions to attach eyelets. Fold neckline band in half again, pin open edges together.
STEP 7: STITCH ON NECKLINE BAND Use a straight pin to mark centre of neckline on front and back. Pin neckline band (a) to edge of neckline, matching centers and with eyelets lying on front to each side of centre. Stitch neckline band slightly stretched to fi t. Trim allowances to 7 mm (1/4") and neaten together. Lay neckline band up, press allowances onto front and back.
STEP 8: STITCH ON SLEEVES Pin sleeves right sides together with armhole edges. Two points are important: Match marking at top centre of sleeve with shoulder seam. Match markings 6 on sleeve and front. Stitch sleeves. Trim allowances, neaten together and press toward sleeves.
STEP 9: SLEEVE SEAMS AND SIDE SEAMS Lay front right sides together with back. Fold sleeves lengthwise, right side facing in. Now first pin ends of sleeve inset seams together. Then pin and stitch sleeve seams and side seams. Trim allowances, neaten together and press onto front.
STEP 10: BACK DRAWSTRING CASING Neaten casing strip (b) round all edges. Now first press ends to inside by 1.5 cm (5/8") and then long edges. Pin casing strip to back piece at abutting lines so that it ends at side seams. Stitch casing strip close to top and bottom edges. Backstitch to secure ends of stitching.
STEP 11: STITCH HEM Neaten hem allowance and turn to inside, baste. Press edge, pressing extra width at curves fl at. Topstitch lower edge of garment 3 cm (11/4") wide. To keep the edge stretchy, use a twin ma-chine needle for topstitching. You will need two spools of thread. Stitch from the right fabric side with two upper threads and one bobbin thread. The upper threads form parallel lines of stitching. The bobbin thread forms a line of zigzag stitch-ing. Stitch sleeve hems likewise.
STEP 12: INSERT DRAWSTRING Cut 1.00 m (about 40") of 3 cm (1 1/4") wide cotton tape. Turn in ends twice and stitch to prevent them from fraying. Use a safety pin as a bodkin to insert tape at neckline through eyelets. Insert remainder of tape into back casing. Turn in ends, stitch.
FINISHED!
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