Sewing Lesson: #109B Slim Fit Trousers 04/2019
Refer to the "pattern’s store page" for specific fabric yardage and notion requirements. Also remember to add seam allowance (you can either add to the paper pattern before cutting or to the fabric around the pattern… see below), further info and amounts can be found in the instructions PDF after purchase.
Fabric Step 1
STEP 1: CUT OUT THE FABRIC PIECES Fold the fabric in half lengthwise, right side facing in and matching the selvedges. Pin paper pattern pieces to the fabric as shown in the cutting layout. Use chalk to mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam and hem allowances round all edges of the pieces. Finally, mark pieces a, b, c to measure directly on the fabric from the fold. Cut out all fabric pieces on these lines.
Step 2
STEP 2: THE INTERFACING Fold interfacing in half, adhesive side facing in. Pin on pieces 3 and 6. Add 1.5 cm (5/8") seam allowance at edges of pieces. Mark pieces a and b on the interfacing. Cut out the pieces. Iron interfacing on wrong side of pieces. Lay bands and facings right sides together again. Pin on paper pattern pieces again.
Step 3
STEP 3: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS Use dressmaker's carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and also other lines, notches and the slit mark to the wrong side of the fabric pieces. Follow the instructions included with the carbon paper. Use basting thread to mark abutting lines on right fabric side of the hip yoke piece.
Step 4
STEP 4: DARTS / POCKET BANDS Pin darts on back trouser pieces and stitch toward points of darts. Knot ends of thread. Press darts toward centre back. Pin pocket bands right sides together with front trouser pieces (seam number 1) and stitch. Trim allowances and press onto pocket bands.
Step 5
STEP 5: HIP YOKE POCKETS Pin pocket pieces right sides together with pocket opening edges of front trouser pieces (seam number 2) and stitch. Trim allowances and press onto pocket pieces. Stitch allowances close to joining seam. Turn pocket pieces to inside. Baste edge, press. Baste two rows of trim next to each other on band and sew on by hand.
Step 6
STEP 6: STITCH POCKET PIECES TOGETHER Pin front trouser piece to hip yoke piece so that pocket opening edge meets with abutting line. Baste pocket opening edge. Baste pocket piece to hip yoke. Stitch. Neaten seam allowances together. Baste pocket pieces at side edge of trousers.
Step 7
STEP 7: SIDE SEAMS / LEFT SLIT Lay front trouser pieces right sides together with back trouser pieces. Pin side seams (seam number 3). Stitch seams. Left side seam begins about 5 cm (2") below slit mark (arrow). Backstitch to secure ends of stitching. Neaten allowances and press open.
Step 8
STEP 8: INSIDE LEG SEAM Fold trouser legs lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin inside leg seams (seam number 4), matching marking. Stitch seams, slightly stretching back trouser pieces from upper edges to marking. Neaten allowances and press open.
Step 9
STEP 9: CENTER SEAM Turn one trouser leg so that right fabric side faces out on one and wrong side on the other. Place trouser legs one inside the other with right sides facing. Pin centre seam, matching inside leg seams. Stitch seam, not catching hip yokes. Neaten allowances and press open from upper edge to beginning of curve.
Step 10
STEP 10: CENTER SEAM Stitch centre front seam on hip yoke pieces so that allowances later lie on inside on allowance of centre seam of trousers. Neaten allowances and press open. Baste hip yoke pieces at upper trousers edge.
Step 11
STEP 11: WAISTBAND Lay front waistband right sides together with back waistband, stitch right side seam. Press allowances open. Fold waistband in half with wrong side facing in and press. Unfold waistband again. Pin waistband right sides together with upper trousers edge, matching side seams. Stitch. Trim allowances and press onto waistband. Neaten other long edge of waistband.
Step 12
STEP 12: ZIP FASTENING Use the special presser foot. Open zip and pin face down on one edge of opening. Teeth of zip begin at pressed crease on waistband. Stitch zip close to teeth. The teeth of an invisible zip roll inward and are held fl at by the special presser foot. Stitch zip to other edge of opening likewise. Stitch each half of zip from upper edges to slit mark. Backstitch to secure ends of stitching.
Step 13
STEP 13: TURN WAISTBAND TO INSIDE / SEW ON TRIM Turn waistband to inside on pressed line, lay over joining seam and pin. Sew on side edges at zip tapes. Work from outside of garment to stitch in line of waistband joining seam, catching inside waistband edge. Pin trim centered along waistband.Turn in ends at slit. Sew on trim by hand.
Step 14
STEP 14: REMAINDER OF SIDE SEAM Close zip slightly. Turn left trouser leg right side facing in. Stitch remainder of side seam as far as possible to slit mark, laying ends of zip tape aside. Backstitch to secure ends of stitching.
Step 15
STEP 15: BELT CARRIERS Neaten long edges of strip (c) for belt carriers and press 1.5 cm (5/8") wide to inside. Topstitch close to edges. Cut strip into two pieces. Neaten ends. Pin belt carriers over pocket bands as illustrated and stitch in line of waistband joining seam. Lay belt carriers up, turn in ends and pin at upper waistband edge. Stitch belt carriers close to ends.
Step 16
STEP 16: HEM FACINGS Join facing pieces each to a round. Press allowances open. Pin facing right sides together with lower trouser leg edge, matching seam with inside leg seam. Stitch facing at lower edge and for front slit on marked line. Clip allowances at slit as illustrated close to line of stitching and trim. Turn facing to inside, press. Neaten inside facing edge, baste. Topstitch lower trouser leg edge 4.5 cm (1 3/4") wide.