Sewing Lesson: #104B Pleated Jersey Dress 06/2019
Refer to the "pattern’s store page" for specific fabric yardage and notion requirements. Also remember to add seam allowance (you can either add to the paper pattern before cutting or to the fabric around the pattern… see below), further info and amounts can be found in the instructions PDF after purchase.
Jersey Dress FABRIC Jersey Dress Step 1
STEP 1: CUT OUT THE FABRIC PIECES Fold the selvages of the fabric in toward the center with right side facing in. Pin pieces 2, 4 and 5 at the fabric fold. Mark pieces cut to measure (a, b) directly on the fabric. Unfold the remaining fabric, right side facing up. Pin pieces 1 and 3 to the fabric as shown in the pattern layout. The printed side of piece 3 must face up. Cut the front pieces as opposites. Mark seam and hem allowances on the fabric round the edges of the paper pattern pieces: 1 cm (3/8") at armholes, 3 cm (11/4") at hem, 1.5 cm (5/8") at all other seams and edges. Cut out all fabric pieces.
Jersey Dress Step 2
STEP 2: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS Use dressmaker's carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and also all lines, markings and other details to the wrong side of the pieces. Follow the instructions included with the carbon paper. Use basting thread to transfer pleat lines, facing fold line and centre front to the right fabric side.
Jersey Dress Step 3
STEP 3: THE INTERFACING Use piece 1 to cut two strips of interfacing the width of the facing and use piece 3 to cut one strip the width of the facing. Iron interfacing on front pieces and right front skirt panel from marked fold line (wrong fabric side). Neaten outer facing edges with zigzag and or overlock stitching.
Jersey Dress Step 4
STEP 4: BACK NECKLINE Iron Vilene Bias Tape/stay tape on edge of back neckline so that the chain stitch lies on the marked seam line and the narrower half of the tape on the allowance. Press allowance to inside, pin. Use the twin machine needle and work from right side of garment piece to topstitch back neckline 1 cm (3/8") wide, catching allowance. Stitch at a straight stitch setting with two upper threads. The upper threads form parallel lines, the bobbin thread forms a line of zigzag stitching.
Jersey Dress Step 5
STEP 5: SIDE SEAMS Tips for jersey: Use a special jersey needle for stitching. The ball-point tip will not damage the fabric. Stitch at a narrow zigzag setting to keep the seams stretchy. Lay front pieces right sides together with back. Pin side seams (seam number 1) and stitch. Trim allowances to 7 mm (1/4"), neaten together and press onto back.
Jersey Dress Step 6
STEP 6: ARMHOLES Fold facing strip (b) in half lengthwise with wrong side facing in, press. Pin strip to armhole edge so that open edges lie on allowance. Stitch facing strip 1 cm (3/8") wide. Trim allowances, clip curves. Turn facing strip to inside, baste. Press edge. Topstitch armhole edge 5 mm (3/16") wide, catching facing strip.
Jersey Dress Step 7
STEP 7: STRAP WITH ELASTIC Fold strap lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin long edges together and stitch 1.5 cm (5/8") wide. Trim allowances. Turn strap and arrange so that seam lies centered. Cut 3 cm (1 1/4") elastic into two equal pieces. Use a safety pin as a bodkin to insert elastic into straps. Stitch ends of strap and elastic together for a finished length as follows for size 36: 19 cm (71/2"); size 38: 19.5 cm (7 3/4"); size 40: 20 cm (8"); size 42: 20.5 cm (8 1/4"); size 44: 21 cm (8 3/8").
Jersey Dress Step 8
STEP 8: BASTE STRAPS IN FRONT Clip allowance of front pieces on facing fold line as illustrated. Baste straps right sides together wth front shoulder edges.
Jersey Dress Step 9
STEP 9: CATCH IN STRAPS Turn self-facing out on fold line and pin in place over strap. Turn in allowance of side facing overhanging at edge of armhole. Stitch shoulder edges together, catching in strap. Trim allowances. Turn facing to inside on fold line, baste. Pull strap up. Sew on side facing edge at armhole with small stitches by hand.
Jersey Dress Step 10
STEP 10: FRONT PIECES / PLEATS Work from right side of fabric to lay pleats on front pieces in arrow direction, baste pleats at lower edge. Lay right front on left front, matching centers. Baste lower edges together.
Jersey Dress Step 11
STEP 11: RIGHT FRONT SKIRT PANEL Press self-facing of right front skirt panel to inside on fold line, baste. Lay pleats in arrow direction, baste at upper edge.
Jersey Dress Step 12
STEP 12: BASTE SKIRT PANELS TOGETHER Neaten allowance at right side edge of front skirt panel and press to inside. Use the twin machine needle to topstitch from right side of garment piece 1 cm (3/8") next to edge, catching allowance. Lay right front skirt panel on front skirt panel, matching centers. Baste upper edges together.
Jersey Dress Step 13
STEP 13: SIDE SEAMS Lay front skirt panel on back skirt panel with right sides facing. Pin side seams (seam number 2) and stitch. Trim allowances to 7 mm (1/4"), neaten together and press onto back skirt panel.
Jersey Dress Step 14
STEP 14: STITCH ON SKIRT Pin skirt right sides together with upper dress, matching centers and matching side seams. Stitch skirt. Trim allowances to 1 cm (3/8") and neaten together. Secure seam by cutting a piece of 7 mm (1/4") wide elastic for a comfortable fi t at the waist plus 2 cm (3/4") and mark the middle. Pin elastic to seam allowances so that middle meets with a side seam. Pin ends together at other side seam. Stretch elastic slightly and stitch at a zigzag setting.
Jersey Dress Step 15
STEP 15: STITCH STRAPS ON BACK Pin open ends of straps right sides together with back shoulder edges. Try on dress to determine correct strap length. Stitch straps. Trim allowances, neaten together and lay downward. Sew side edges of straps to back by hand.
Jersey Dress Step 16
STEP 16: STITCH HEM Lay self-facing on right skirt panel out flat again. Neaten hem allowance, press to inside and pin. Use the twin machine needle to topstitch lower skirt edge 2.5 cm (1") wide, catching hem. Turn facing to inside again and sew on at hem by hand. Press.
Jersey Dress FINISHED
FINISHED! Small pleats at the front give the jersey fabric a beautiful drape to create an elegant and enchanting neckline.
Want more sewing lessons? Check out our last one here on our "Shirt Dress with Gathers" :