Sewing lesson: #117 stretch blazer
Sewing lesson: #117 stretch blazer
Sewing your first blazer? These clear instructions will guarantee success, and have you looking stylish! Read on to see all the steps top sew this classic jacket pattern for the season...
STEP 1: CUT OUT THE FABRIC PIECES
Fold the fabric in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin paper pattern pieces 1 to 9 to the fabric as shown in the pattern layout, placing piece 7 at the fabric fold. Use the hand gauge and tai-lor's chalk to mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam allowances and 4 cm (15/8") hem allowance (pieces 1, 4 and 5) and also sleeve hem allowance (pieces 8 and 9) on the fabric at the edges of the paper pat-tern pieces. Cut out the pieces on these lines.
STEP 2: CUT OUT THE INTERFACING
Fold the interfacing in half, adhesive side facing in. Pin on pieces 3, 6 and 7. Use pencil to mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam allowances at the edges. Cut out the pieces and iron on the wrong side of the respective fabric pieces. Also cut strips of in-terfacing 4 cm (15/8") wide and iron on the pocket opening edge of the centre front pieces (see step 7) as well as on hem allowance of front and back pieces and on sleeve pieces.
STEP 3: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS
Fold back facing in half and lay front facings together, right side facing in. Pin on the pattern pieces. Use dress maker's carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and all other markings to the wrong side of the pieces. Follow the instructions included with the carbon paper. Use basting thread to transfer abutting lines and hem lines to the right side of the fabric.
STEP 4: CUT OUT THE LINING
Cut off the pocket piece on paper pattern piece 2 as illustrated along the line marked "LINING", it is not required for the lining. Fold lining in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin on pieces 2, 5, 8, 9 and 12 to 14 as shown in the pattern layout, placing piece 13 at the fold. Use a ruler and tailor's chalk to mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam allowances round the edges. Cut out all the pieces. Use carbon paper to transfer pattern outlines to the lining.
STEP 5: DARTS / CENTRE BACK SEAM
Stitch darts on centre front and back pieces. To do this, fold the pieces with right side facing in so that the dart lines meet. Pin darts and stitch toward points, knot threads. Press bust darts down, press shoulder darts toward centre back. Lay back pieces right sides together, stitch centres seam. Press allowances open.
STEP 6: WELTS
Fold welts in half lengthwise, press. Pin open edges together. Pin welts right sides together with front at each welt joining line (seam number 2).
STEP 7: STITCH WELT AND POCKET PIECE
Pin pocket lining piece right sides together with centre front over welt. Stitch pocket piece, catch-ing in welt. End seam at marked corner. Clip front in corner close to last stitch (arrow).
STEP 8: TURN POCKET TO INSIDE
Turn pocket piece to inside, lay welt up. Baste edge and press. Pin welt to side front at abutting line. Baste upper edge, baste side edges together.
STEP 9: FRONT PANEL SEAMS
Lay centre fronts right sides together with side fronts. Pin panel seams (seam number 1), matching marking with upper edge of welt (arrow). Baste seams, go on to baste edge of pocket together. Stitch seams and stitch pocket together to side edge. Press allowances onto centre front pieces. Baste pocket at side edges.
STEP 10: BACK PANEL SEAMS
Lay side back pieces right sides together with centre back. Pin panel seams (seam number 3) and stitch. Press allow ances onto centre back.
STEP 11: SHOULDER SEAMS AND SIDE SEAMS
Lay fronts right sides together with back. Pin shoulder seams (seam number 4) and stitch, easing back shoulder edges. Clip allowances in corner as illustrated and press open. Pin side seams (seam number 6) and stitch, catching in pockets. Press allowances onto back.
STEP 12: FACING
Stitch shoulder seams of facing (seam number 5). Clip allowances and press open. Pin facing right sides together with jacket, matching shoulder seams. Stitch edges together as illustrat-ed. Trim allowances, trimming at hem to just about 2 cm (3/4") before end of facing (arrow). Clip allow-ances along curves. Neaten hem allowance.
STEP 13: TURN FACING TO INSIDE, SEW ON HEM
Turn facing and hem allowance to inside. Baste edges and press. Stitch hem loosely by hand, always catching just 1 to 2 threads of the fabric so that the stitchies are not visible on the right side of the garment.
STEP 14: SEW SLEEVES
Lay undersleeve pieces right sides together with upper sleeves. Pin back sleeve seams (seam number 7) and stitch. Press allowances open. To ease sleeve caps, stitch a of line of machine basting (longest stitch setting) to each side of marked seam line from • to •. Fold sleeves lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin front sleeve seams (seam number 8) and stitch. Press allowances open. Press sleeve hem to inside and sew by hand.
STEP 15: SETTING IN SLEEVES
Pin sleeves into armholes with right sides facing. The following points are important for proper fit: Match markings 11 on upper sleeve and front. Match marking on undersleeve with side seam. Match marking at sleeve cap with shoulder seam. Slip fabric of sleeve cap together along the threads to avoid forming tucks. Baste and stitch sleeves from sleeve side. Press allowances at sleeve cap toward sleeves.
STEP 16: SEW LINING TOGETHER
Stitch darts on centre front pieces. Stitch side fronts to centre front (seam number 1), clipping centre front in corner. Fold centre back lengthwise, right side facing in. Stitch on lines marked for ease pleat. Backstitch to secure ends of stitching. Press pleat to one side. Sew jacket lining together, matching same seam numbers. Press allowance at lower lining edge and at lower sleeve edges to inside.
STEP 17: STITCH IN LINING
Pin lining right sides together with inside facing edge (seam number 13), matching shoulder seams. Stitch lining, slightly easing edge at back neckline between •. Begin and end stitching about 10 cm (4") above hem edge (arrow). Backstitch to secure ends of stitching.
STEP 18: SEW ON LINING
Turn lining to inside, press allow ances onto lining. Place sleeve linings inside sleeves. Push up lower edge of lining, also on sleeves, and sew on at hem and sleeve hem. Lay extra length of lining down like a small fold. Sew on remainder of lining at facings. Sew on facings at hem. Work a buttonhole crosswise from x on right front. Sew button on left front to match.
Thoroughly modern: a no-collar blazer with skilfully placed panel seams to put shape where it counts. The flap pockets are also inserted into the panel seams – with great accuracy.