Sewing lesson: #115 CARGO TROUSERS 11/2020

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We love vintage november 2020
By Burdastyle December 15, 2020 No comments

A cool cut, in elegant silk: Here are trousers we want now – and no problem to sew with these detailed instructions.

 

STEP 1: CUT OUT THE FABRIC

STEP 1: CUT OUT THE FABRIC

 

Fold fabric in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin the paper pattern pieces to the fabric as shown in the pattern layout. ­Use the hand gauge and tailor's chalk to mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam allowances on the fabric. Cut out the pieces on these lines.

 

 

STEP 2: CUT OUT THE INTERFACING

STEP 2: CUT OUT THE INTERFACING

 

Fold the interfacing in half, adhesive side facing in. Pin on pieces 23 and 24 as illus trated. Use pencil to mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam allowances at the edges. Cut out the pieces and iron on the wrong side of the respective waistband pieces. In-terface only the outer waistband pieces.

 

 

STEP 3: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS

STEP 3: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS

 

Pin on the pattern pieces again. Use dress maker's carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and all other markings to the wrong side of the pieces. Follow instructions included with the carbon paper. Mark the stitching line on piece 1 for sizes 38 to 44 the same distance from centre front as for size 36. Use basting thread to transfer fold lines, abutting lines and pleat lines, as well as cen-tre front and stitching line to right side of fabric.

 

STEP 4: SIDE SEAMS

STEP 4: SIDE SEAMS

 

Lay side front trouser pieces (upper and lower pieces) each right sides together with side back trouser pieces. Pin side seams (seam num-ber 1, 2) and stitch. Neaten allowances and press open.

 

 

STEP 5: SIDE POCKETS

STEP 5:  SIDE POCKETS

 

Neaten self-facing on lower side trouser pieces, press to inside on fold line and baste. Neaten lower edge of integral pocket piece on upper trouser pieces. Lay lower side trouser piec-es on upper side trouser pieces at abutting lines. Baste side edges together.

 

 

STEP 6: STITCH POCKET PIECES

STEP 6:  STITCH POCKET PIECES

 

Pin lower edge of integral pocket pieces on trouser pieces. Work from right side of garment pieces to topstitch lower trousers as marked, catching pocket pieces.

 

 

STEP 7: PANEL SEAMS

STEP 7: PANEL SEAMS

 

Lay centre front trouser pieces right sides together with side trouser pieces. Pin panel seams (seam number 3) and stitch. Trim allowances, neaten together and press onto centre front trouser pieces. Stitch back panel seams likewise (seam number 4). Neaten allowances together and press onto centre back trouser pieces.

 

 

STEP 8: INSIDE LEG SEAMS

STEP 8:  INSIDE LEG SEAMS

 

Fold trouser pieces lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin inside leg seams (seam number 5) and stitch. Neaten allowances and press open.

 

 

STEP 9: CENTER FRONT SEAM

STEP 9: CENTER FRONT SEAM

 

Neaten allowances of centre seam and self-facings. Turn one trouser leg. Place one trou-ser leg inside the other with right sides facing. Pin ends of inside leg seams to gether. Then pin centre front seam from slit to inside leg seam and stitch. Backstitch to secure ends of stitching.

 

 

STEP 10: FRONT OPENING

STEP 10: FRONT OPENING

 

Neaten allowances of centre seam and self-facings. Turn one trouser leg. Place one trou-ser leg inside the other with right sides facing. Pin ends of inside leg seams to gether. Then pin centre front seam from slit to inside leg seam and stitch. Backstitch to secure ends of stitching.

 

 

STEP 11: ZIP FASTENER

STEP 11:  ZIP FASTENER

 

Pin and stitch underlap to zip tape close to teeth of zip (zipper foot). Close zip. Pin opening closed, matching centers.

 

 

STEP 12: ZIP FASTENER

STEP 12:  ZIP FASTENER

 

Work from inside to pin facing at right opening edge to zip tape, not catching front trouser piece. Stitch zip tape to facing. Work from outside of garment to topstitch riight front trouser piece on marked stitching line, catching facing.

 

 

STEP 13: UNDERLAP

STEP 13: UNDERLAP

 

Fold underlap piece in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Stitch bottom edges together. Trim allowances. Turn underlap, press. Neaten long open edges together. Pin underlap on under-side of left opening edge so that neatened edge lies under zip tape. Stitch in previous stitching line of zip. Sew bottom end of underlap to facing by hand.

 

 

STEP 14: CENTER BACK SEAM

STEP 14: CENTER BACK SEAM

 

Place one trouser leg inside the other with right sides facing. Pin and stitch remainder of centre seam from inside leg seams to upper back trousers edge. Press allowances open from upper edges to beginning of curve.

 

 

STEP 15: FRONT PLEATS / SIDE SEAMS OF WAISTBAND

STEP 15: FRONT PLEATS / SIDE SEAMS OF WAISTBAND

 

Lay pleat on each front trouser piece in arrow direction (panel seam meets with marked pleat line). Baste pleats at upper trousers edge. Stitch side seams of interfaced and non-interfaced waistband each (seam number 7). Press allowances of seams open.

 

 

STEP 16: BELT CARRIERS

STEP 16: BELT CARRIERS

 

Press long edges of fabric strip in toward centre and press strip in half lengthwise. Stitch edges together, topstitch close to other edge. Cut strip into 5 equal pieces. Baste belt carreris on upper trousers edge with two belt carriers in front next to pleats, two belt carriers in back about 4 cm (1 5/8") behind side seams and one belt carrier over centre back seam.

 

 

STEP 17: STITCH ON WAISTBAND

STEP 17: STITCH ON WAISTBAND

 

Pin interfaced waistband right sides together with upper trousers edge (seam number 8), matching side seams. Stitch waistband, catching in belt carriers. Press allowances onto waistband. Neaten allowance at lower edge of non-interfaced waistband.

 

 

STEP 18: DOUBLE THE WAISTBAND

STEP 18: DOUBLE THE WAISTBAND

 

Pin non-interfaced waistband right sides together with interfaced waistband, matching side seams. Turn in allowance at lower edge just in front. Stitch upper edge and front edges together on the right in centre front and on the left at underlap. Trim allowances, trim corners at an angle.

 

 

STEP 19: STITCH ON THE WAISTBAND

STEP 19: STITCH ON THE WAISTBAND

 

Turn waistband, baste inside edge at joining seam. Press waistband. Work from outside of garment to stitch waistband in line of joining seam, catching inside waistband edge. Work a buttonhole crosswise on right waistband edge from marked x. Sew button on underlap to match.

 

 

STEP 20: STITCH ON BELT CARRIERS

STEP 20: STITCH ON BELT CARRIERS

 

Neaten open ends of belt carriers with zigzag stitching. Fold belt carriers up 1 cm (3/8") below lower waistband edge. Turn in ends, pin on upper waistband edge and stitch close to edge. Backstitch to secure start and end of stitching. Sew top halves of snap fasteners on inside of pockets at x, not exiting needle on right side of fabric. Sew bottom halves of snaps on trousers to match.

 

 

STEP 21: TURN-UP

STEP 21: TURN-UP

 

Neaten hem allowance. Turn lower trouser leg edge to inside on turn-up fold line, baste. Press edge. Stitch hem. Turn up trouser leg on hem fold line, press. Sew on turn-up loosely by hand as illustrated.

 

 

FINISHED!

FINISHED!

 

With this model, we are celebrating the comeback of cargo trousers! This season they keep their classical pockets, but are made from elegant silk and have wide cuffs.

 

#Lesson Posted in: How-To