Sewing lesson: #108 COTTON BLOUSE 10/2020

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Sewing lesson: #108 COTTON BLOUSE 10/2020
By Meghan October 27, 2020 No comments

Your time and effort will be well rewarded! Just follow our step-by-step instructions for this romantic blouse with lovely frills.

 

 

STEP 1: CUT OUT THE FABRIC


STEP 1

 

Fold the fabric in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin on the paper pattern pieces, placing pieces 3 and 6 at the fabric fold. Use the hand gauge and tailor's chalk to mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam and hem allowances on the fabric round the edges of the pattern pieces. Cut out the pieces on these lines.

 

STEP 2: CUT OUT THE INTERFACING


STEP 2

 

Fold the interfacing in half, adhesive side facing in. Pin on pieces 2 and 6 as illustrated. Use pencil to mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam allowances at the edges. Cut out the pieces and iron on the wrong side of the fabric pieces. Interface the outside collar piece only.

 

 

STEP 3: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS


STEP 3

 

Pin on the pattern pieces again. Use dressmaker's carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and all other markings to the wrong side of the pieces. Follow the instructions included with the carbon paper. Use basting thread to transfer fold lines to the right side of the fabric.

 

STEP 4: BUST DARTS


STEP 4

 

Fold front piece so that dart lines meet, right fabric side facing in. Pin darts and stitch toward points of darts. Knot threads at points of darts. Press darts down. Fold back lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin waist darts and stitch toward points. Knot threads. Press darts toward centre back.

 

 

STEP 5: FRILLS


STEP 5

 

Press allowance at long edge of frill piece to inside. Topstitch fold edge at a close zigzag set-ting. Trim allowance close to stitching. Test-stitch on a scrap of fabric first to check stitch setting and thread tension. Gather other long edge of frill, e.g. stitch a line of machine basting to each side of marked seam line (stitch length 4 mm/a good 1/8"). Hold bobbin threads and slip the fabric together to fit edge to front edge of blouse.

 

STEP 6: FRILLS / BANDS


STEP 6

 

Baste frills on front edges with wrong side facing right side. Pin bands over frills with right sides facing (seam number 1) and stitch. Trim allowances and press onto bands. Press allowance at other long edges of bands to inside. Fold bands to inside on fold line and baste at joining seam. Work from right side of garment to stitch in line of band joining seam, catching inside edge of band.

 

STEP 7: SHOULDER SEAMS AND SIDE SEAMS


STEP 7

 

Lay fronts right sides together with back. Pin shoulder seams (seam number 2), easing back shoulder edges. Pin side seams (seam number 4). Stitch seams. Trim allowances, neaten together with zigzag or overlock stitching and press onto back.

 

STEP 8 : STAND COLLAR


STEP 8

 

Pin interfaced collar piece right sides together with neck edge (seam number 3), matching markings with shoulder seams. Stitch. Trim allowances and press onto collar. Press allowance at joining edge of other collar piece to inside. Pin this collar piece right sides together with interfaced collar piece. Stitch edges togeth-er. Trim allowances, clip curve. Turn collar. Press edges. Baste inside collar and sew on by hand.

 

STEP 9: SLEEVE HEM / GATHER SLEEVE CAP


STEP 9

 

Neaten sleeve hem allowance, press to inside and stitch. To gather sleeve cap, stitch a line of long stitches (stitch length 4 mm / a good 1/8") to each side of seam line from * to *. Pull bobbin threads just slightly at first.

 

STEP 10: SLEEVE / ELASTIC CASING


STEP 10

 

Neaten long edges of facing strip and pin on wrong side of sleeve over marked lines. Stitch casing strip along marked lines. Use a safety pin as a bodkin to insert elastic for a comfortable fit at the wrist. Stitch across ends at side allowanc-es. Fold sleeves lengthwise, right side facing in. Stitch sleeve seams (seam number 5). Trim al-lowances, neaten together and press to one side.

 

STEP 11: SETTING IN SLEEVES


STEP 11

 

Pin sleeves into armholes with right sides facing. When setting in sleeves, the following points are important for proper fit: Match mark-ings 6 on sleeve and front. Match sleeve seams with side seams. Match marking at sleeve cap with shoulder seam. Pull gathering threads at sleeve cap to fit sleeve into armhole. Baste sleeves and stitch. Trim allowances, neaten to-gether and press toward sleeves at sleeve cap.

 

STEP 12: HEM / SNAP FASTENERS


STEP 12

 

Neaten hem allowance, press to inside and stitch. Work buttonhole at right edge of collar crosswise from x. Sew button on other edge. Sew top halves of snaps on right band, not exiting needle on right side of garment. Sew bottom halves of snaps on left band to match: Space top snap 1.5 cm (5/8") below collar joining seam. Space bottom snap 12 cm (43/4") above lower edge. Space other snaps evenly in between.

 

FINISHED!


FINISHED!

 

A wonderfully retro look: 1970s-style ruffled blouse. The concealed buttons ensure that the focus is on the cut and patterned fabric.

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