Sewing lesson: #102 VISCOSE DRESS 04/2021

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Sewing lesson: #102 VISCOSE DRESS 04/2021
By Meghan May 5, 2021 No comments

If happiness can be a dress, this is it! The easy instructions below give us even more reason to feel joy, and stylish for the season. This dress embodies gathered tiers, button up front and flowing sleeves. Read on to see the sewing lesson to make one for yourself...

 

 

STEP 1: CUT OUT THE FABRIC

STEP 1: CUT OUT THE FABRIC

 

Fold the fabric in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin the paper pattern pieces 1 to 5 and piece d to the fabric as shown in the pattern layout. Use tailor's chalk to mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam and hem allowances at the edges of the paper pattern pieces. Cut out the pieces on these lines.

 

STEP 2: CUT OUT THE SKIRT TIERS

STEP 2: CUT OUT THE SKIRT TIERS

 

Unfold the remaining fabrics, wrong side facing up. Use a ruler and tailor's chalk to mark pieces a, b and c directly on the fabric. The measurements include seam allow ances. Cut out the pieces.

 

STEP 3: CUT OUT THE INTERFACING

STEP 3: CUT OUT THE INTERFACING

 

Fold the interfacing in half as illustrated, adhesive side facing in. Pin on pieces 4 and 5 as illustrated. Use pencil and a ruler to mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam allowances at the edges. Cut out the pieces and iron on the wrong side of the facing pieces. Pin on the paper pattern pieces again.

 

STEP 4: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS

STEP 4: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS

 

Use dress maker's carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and also the darts, other markings and abutting lines from the pattern pieces to the wrong side of the fabric pieces. Follow the instructions included with the carbon paper.

 

STEP 5: CUT OUT THE LINING

STEP 5:  CUT OUT THE LINING

 

Fold the selvedges of the lining in toward the centre, right side facing in. Pin pieces 6 and 7 at the fold as shown in the pattern layout. Mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam allowances at the edges of the paper pattern pieces. Cut out the pieces on these lines. Transfer pattern outlines to the lining pieces.

 

STEP 6: CONSTRUCT LOOPS

STEP 6:  CONSTRUCT LOOPS

 

Fold bias strip for loops in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Stitch 0.5 cm (3/16") next to fold edge. Leave a length of thread hanging, insert into a darning needle and knot securely. Push needle eye first through tube to turn right side out. Cut tube into 3 equal pieces. Form loops and stitch as marked on allowance on right front. Gear size of loops to fit your buttons.

 

STEP 7: BUST DARTS / CENTER FRONT SEAM

STEP 7:   BUST DARTS /  CENTER FRONT SEAM

 

Stitch bust darts on front pieces toward points. Press darts down. Lay front pieces right sides together. Pin centre seam and stitch, not stitching over allowance at V-neck at top end of seam (arrow). Catch in the loops. Backstitch to secure ends of stitching. Press allowances open, loops should lie on left front.

 

STEP 8: SHOULDER SEAMS / SIDE SEAMS

STEP 8:  Shoulder seams /  side seams

 

Lay front right sides together with back. Pin shoulder seams (seam number 1), easing back shoulder edges. Pin side seams (seam number 2). Stitch seams. Press allowances of seams open. Neaten lower edge of upper dress. Lay front facing right sides together with back facing, stitch shoulder seams (seam number 5). Press allowances open. Neaten outer facing edge.

 

STEP 9: SKIRT TIERS

STEP 9: SKIRT TIERS

 

Lay skirt tiers each right sides together and stitch side seam. Trim allowances, neaten together and press to one side. Neaten lower edge of lower skirt tier, press 1.5 cm (5/8") wide to wrong fabric side and stitch.

 

STEP 10: GATHER SKIRT TIERS

STEP 10: GATHER SKIRT TIERS

 

Press upper edge of all skirt tiers 3 cm (1 1/4") wide to wrong fabric side and pin. To gather edge, stitch a line of machine basting (longest stitch setting) spaced 1.3 cm (a good 1/2") next to fold edge and again at an interval of 1.5 cm (5/8"). Do not stitch across side seams and leave ends of thread hanging. Pull bobbin threads of lower skirt tier to fit edge to width of middle skirt tier. Knot threads. Distribute gathers evenly.

 

STEP 11: STITCH SKIRT TIERS TOGETHER

STEP 11: STITCH SKIRT TIERS TOGETHER

 

Use tailor's chalk to mark an abutting line on middle skirt tier spaced 3 cm (11/4") next to lower edge. Pin lower skirt tier to middle skirt tier so that upper edge meets with marked abutting line. Match side seams. Stitch lower skirt tier between lines of gathering. Stitch middle skirt tier to upper skirt tier likewise.

 

STEP 12: STITCH ON SKIRT TIERS

STEP 12: STITCH ON SKIRT TIERS

 

Mark an abutting line on upper dress 3 cm (11/4") next to lower edge. Pin upper skirt tier to upper dress so that upper edge meets with abutting line. Match side seams. Stitch upper skirt tier between lines of gathering.

 

STEP 12: STITCH ON SKIRT TIERS

STEP 12: STITCH ON SKIRT TIERS

 

Mark an abutting line on upper dress 3 cm (11/4") next to lower edge. Pin upper skirt tier to upper dress so that upper edge meets with abutting line. Match side seams. Stitch upper skirt tier between lines of gathering.

 

STEP 13: CONSTRUCT LINING

STEP 13: CONSTRUCT LINING

 

Stitch bust darts and press down. Stitch shoulder seams, see step 8. Press allowances open. Baste facing on neckline edge of lining with wrong side facing right side and matching shoulder seams. Stitch inside facing edge to lining close edge edge. Stitch side seams of lining, see step 8. Press allowances open. Press lower lining edge to inside, turn in and stitch.

 

STEP 14: LINE DRESS

STEP 14: LINE DRESS

 

Pin lining with facing right sides together with upper dress, matching shoulder seams. Baste neckline edges together and stitch. Trim allowances, clip curves. Clip allowance of facing and lining in centre front close to line of stitching (arrow).

 

STEP 15: LINE DRESS

STEP 15: LINE DRESS

 

Turn lining to inside. Baste neckline, press and topstitch 5 mm (3/16") next to edge. Baste lining at armhole edges. Sew buttons on left front to match loops.

 

STEP 16: CONSTRUCT SLEEVES

STEP 16: CONSTRUCT SLEEVES

 

To gather sleeve caps, stitch a line of machine basting (longest stitch setting) to each side of marked seam line from * to *. Pull bobbin threads just slightly. Fold sleeves lengthwise, right side facing in. Stitch sleeve seams (seam number 6). Trim allowances to 7 mm (1/4"), neaten together and press to one side.

 

STEP 17: ELASTIC CASING"

STEP 17: ELASTIC CASING

 

Neaten allowance at lower sleeve edge, press to inside and pin. Topstitch edge 1.2 cm (1/2") wide, leaving an opening to insert elastic. Backstitch to secure ends of stitching. Cut elastic into 2 pieces and use a safety pin to insert through casing. Sew ends of elastic together for a comfortable fit at the wrist. Sew up openings in seam.

 

STEP 18: SETTING IN SLEEVES"

STEP 18: SETTING IN SLEEVES

 

Pin sleeve into armhole with right sides facing. When setting in sleeves, the following points are important for proper fit: Match markings 7 on sleeve and front. Match sleeve seams and side seams. Match marking at sleeve cap with shoulder seams. Pull gathering threads to fit sleeve cap into armhole. Distribute gathers evenly. Baste and stitch sleeves. Trim allowances, neaten together and press toward upper dress at sleeve cap.

 

FINISHED!"

FINISHED!

 

Love that hippie feeling: the maxi dress features a skirt with gathered tiers that are sewn together and matching gathered sleeves radiate 1970s cool. Nice detail: the small buttons at the neckline. 

Get the dress by following this link!

 

#How-to Posted in: How-To