Sewing lesson: #101 Button up skirt 05/2020

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Sewing lesson: #101 Button up skirt 05/2020
By Meghan July 20, 2020 No comments

Oversized buttons and pocket flaps make this pencil skirt the it-piece of the season. To see how it's sewn from start to finish check out the sewing lesson to make this skirt using cotton fabrics with or without elastane.

 

STEP 1: CUT OUT THE FABRIC PIECES


Burda Style

 

Fold fabric in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin the paper pattern pieces to the fabric as shown in the pattern layout. Use the hand gauge and tailor's chalk to mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam allowances and 4 cm (1 5/8") hem allowance (pieces 1 and 2) on the fabric. Cut out the pieces.

 

 

STEP 2: CUT OUT THE INTERFACING


Burda Style

 

Fold the interfacing in half, adhesive side facing in. Fold piece 5 in half lengthwise. Pin on pieces 3 to 6 as illustrated. Mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam allowances at the edges. Cut out the pieces and iron on the wrong fabric side of the respective fabric pieces. Interface only one half of bands to the fold line.

 

 

STEP 3: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS


Burda Style

 

Lay pieces with interfacing right sides together and pin on the pattern pieces again. Use dressmaker's carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and all other markings to the wrong side of the pieces. Follow instructions included with the carbon paper. Use basting thread to transfer hem lines and the x to right side of the fabric.

 

 

STEP 4: FLAPS


Burda Style

 

Pin flap pieces together with right sides facing. Stitch edges together as illustrated. Trim allowances, trim corners at a angle. Turn flaps, press. Topstitch close to edges. Neaten open edges together. Baste flaps on front skirt panels between markings.

 

 

STEP 5: BACK DARTS / STITCH ON YOKES


Burda Style

 

Stitch darts on back skirt panels toward points of darts. Knot threads. Press darts toward centre back. Pin non-interfaced front yokes right sides together with front skirt panels (seam number 1) and stitch. Catch in the flaps at the seams. Trim allowances, neaten together and press onto yokes. Stitch back yokes to back skirt panels likewise (seam number 2).

 

 

STEP 6: CENTER BACK SEAM


Burda Style

 

Lay back skirt panels together with right sides facing. Pin centre seam. Tip: Use a straight pin inserted at a right angle to pin the yoke joining seams together. Then you can slowly and carefully stitch right over the pin and the seams will not slip out of place. Neaten allowances and press open.

 

 

STEP 7: SIDE SEAMS


Burda Style

 

Lay front trouser pieces right sides together with back trouser pieces. Pin inside leg seams (seam number 5) and stitch. Neaten allowances and press open. with back skirt panel. Pin side seams (seam number 5) and stitch. Neaten allowances and press open.

 

 

STEP 8: INSIDE YOKE


Burda Style

 

Stitch center back seam and side seams on interfaced yoke pieces. Press allowances of seams open. Neaten lower yoke edge.

 

 

STEP 9: DOUBLE THE YOKE


Burda Style

 

Pin yoke right sides together with stitched yoke, matching seams. Stitch upper edges together. Trim allowances. Lay yoke up. Press allowances onto yoke and stitch close to joining seam. Turn yoke to inside, lay over joining seam and baste. Work from right side of garment to topstitch yoke 7 mm (1/4") next to joining seam, catching inside yoke.

 

 

STEP 10: HEM


Burda Style

 

Neaten hem allowance, press to inside and pin. Work from right side of garment to topstitch lower skirt edge 3.5 cm (1 1/2") wide, catching hem.

 

 

STEP 11: FRONT BANDS


Burda Style

 

Pin interfaced half of band right sides together with front skirt panels (seam number 6), allowances of bands overhang at top and bottom. Stitch. Trim allowances and press onto bands. Press allowances at other long edges of bands to inside. Fold bands on fold line, right side facing in. Stitch top and bottom edges together. Trim allow ances, trim corners at an angle.

 

 

STEP 12: FASTENING


Burda Style

 

Turn bands. Baste edges and press. Baste inside half of band at joining seam. Work from right side of garment to topstitch close to joining seams, catching inside halves of bands. Work lengthwise buttonholes on right band from markings. Sew buttons on left band to match buttonholes. Sew larger buttons on flaps at x, catching fabric of front skirt panels.

 

 

FINISHED! #101 05/2020


Burda Style

 

In the panel seams, we’ve tucked some flaps and the accent buttons lend this pencil skirt a pleasant sporty touch.

 

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