STEP 1: CUT OUT THE FABRIC PIECES Fold the fabric in half lengthwise, right side facing in and matching the selvedges. Pin paper pattern pieces to the fabric as shown in the cutting layout. Lay pieces 1, 2, 4 + 6 on the fold. Use chalk to mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam and hem allowances round all edges. Cut out the pieces on these lines.
STEP 2: THE INTERFACING Fold interfacing in half, adhesive side facing in. Pin pieces 3 and 6 to interfacing. Pin piece 6 at the fold. Add 1.5 cm (5/8") seam allowances at edges of pattern pieces. Cut out pieces. Iron interfacing on wrong fabric side of facings. Fold back facing in half, right side in. Lay front facings right sides together. Pin on paper pattern pieces again.
STEP 3: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS Use dressmaker's carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and also the notches, asterisks and the centre front on piece 3 to the wrong side of the pieces. Follow the instructions included with the carbon paper. Use basting thread to mark centre front on right side of fabric.
STEP 4: SHOULDER SEAMS Lay front right sides together with back. Pin and stitch shoulder seams. Trim allowances to 7 mm (1/4"), neaten together and press onto back.
STEP 5: BACK BAND Lay side back band pieces right sides together with centre back band. Stitch panel seams (seam number 2). Trim allow ances to 7 mm (1/4") and press open. Gather centre back band by stitching lines of machine basting (longest stitch setting) along upper and lower edge to each side of marked seam line. Pull all threads to inside. Pull bobbin threads to 10 cm (4"). Knot ends of thread. Distribute gathers evenly.
STEP 6: NECKLINE BAND, FACING /SHOULDER SEAMS Lay two non-interfaced front band pieces each right sides together with back band. Stitch shoulder seams (seam number 3). Trim allowances and press open. Use the interfaced front bands as the facing: Lay front facings right sides together with back facing. Stitch shoulder seams (seam number 3). Trim allowances and press open.
STEP 7: CONSTRUCT NECKLINE BAND Pin facing right sides together with neckline band, matching shoulder seams. Stitch front and upper edges together. Trim allowances, trim corners at an angle, clip curves. Turn band right side out. Baste edges and press carefully, not pressing gathers fl at. Topstitch close to edges. Pin lower edges of neckline band together. Pin right front band to left band, matching centers.
STEP 8: GATHER BACK OF BLOUSE Gather back between * by stitching lines of machine basting to each side of marked seam line. Pull bobbin threads to 10 cm (4") (length of centre back band). Knot ends. Distribute gathers evenly.
STEP 9: STITCH ON NECKLINE BAND Pin neckline band right sides together with neck edge, matching centers and shoulder seams. Stitch band. Trim allowances to 7 mm (1/4") and neaten together. Lay neckline band into neckline, press allow ances onto blouse. Topstitch blouse close to lower edge of neckline band.
STEP 10: SIDE SEAMS AND SLEEVE SEAMS Lay front right sides together with back. Stitch side seams from upper edges to marking at beginning of underarm curve. Backstitch to secure ends of stitching. Fold sleeves lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin sleeve seams and stitch. Trim allowances, neaten together and press to one side.
STEP 11: HEM AND SLITS First trim hem allowance to 7 mm (1/4") and then press completely to inside and pin, easing in extra width along the curve. Stitch a narrow hem. Trim allowances to 7 mm (1/4"), neaten together and press onto back. Press sleeve hem to inside, turn half in and pin. Stitch a narrow hem.
STEP 12: SET IN SLEEVES Pin sleeves into armholes with right sides facing. Three points are important: Match sleeve seam with side seam. Match markings 7 on sleeve and front. Match marking at sleeve cap with shoulder seam. Baste and stitch sleeve. Trim allowances, neaten together and press toward sleeve at sleeve cap.
FINISHED!