Sewing Lesson: #110A Belted Tunic 06/2019
Refer to the "pattern’s store page"for specific fabric yardage and notion requirements. Also remember to add seam allowance (you can either add to the paper pattern before cutting or to the fabric around the pattern… see below), further info and amounts can be found in the instructions PDF after purchase.
Fabric tunic Step 1
STEP 1: CUT OUT THE FABRIC PIECES Fold the selvages of the fabric in toward the centre with right side facing in to cut the front and back pieces. Pin pieces 1 and 2 at the fold. Fold the remaining fabric in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin the paper pattern pieces to the fabric as shown in the layout. Use chalk to mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam and hem allowances round all edges of the pieces. Finally, mark the pieces cut to measure (a, b) directly on the fabric. Cut out the fabric pieces on the marked lines.
Step 2
STEP 2: THE INTERFACING Fold the interfacing in half as illustrated, adhesive side facing in. Pin pieces 3 and 4 at the fold. Mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam allowances at edges. Cut out the pieces. Iron interfacing on wrong side of facings and fold facing in half with right side facing in. Pin on the paper pattern pieces again.
Step 3
STEP 3: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS Use dressmaker's carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and also the darts and other markings to the wrong side of the pieces. Follow the instructions included with the carbon paper.
Step 4
STEP 4: BUST DARTS / SHOULDER SEAMS Pin bust darts on front and stitch darts toward points. Knot threads. Press darts down. Lay front right sides together with back. Pin and stitch shoulder seams. Trim allowances to 7 mm (1/4"). Neaten allowances together and press onto back.
Step 5
STEP 5: BACK BAND Fold fabric strips (b) in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Stitch 7 mm (1/4") next to fold edge. Trim allowances. Leave a length of thread hanging, insert into a darning needle and knot securely. Push needle eye first through fabric tube to turn right side out. Press tube fl at. Baste one end between markings on back edge of neckline.
Step 6
STEP 6: NECKLINE / FACING Lay front facing right sides together with back facing. Pin shoulder edges together. Stitch shoulder seams. Press allowances open. Neaten outer facing edge. Pin facing right sides together with neckline, matching shoulder seams. Stitch facing. Trim allowances, clip curves and clip at point of neckline in centre front and back close to line of stitching (arrows).
Step 7
STEP 7: TURN FACING TO INSIDE Lay facing into neckline. Press allowances onto facing and stitch as far as possible next to joining seam. Turn facing to inside, press.
Step 8
STEP 8: SEW ON BAND Try on garment. Pin narrow band on underside of other neckline edge between markings. Stitch band to facing as close as possible next to edge, laying facing into neckline again to stitch. Turn facing to inside. Sew on remainder of band by hand. Sew inside facing edge to allowances of shoulder seams.
Step 9
STEP 9: SIDE SEAM AND SLEEVE SEAMS Lay front right sides together with back. Stitch side seams from upper edges to marking at beginning of curve. Backstitch to secure ends of stitching. Fold sleeves lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin sleeve seams and stitch. Trim allowances to 7 mm (1/4"), neaten together and press to one side.
Step 10
STEP 10: HEM / SLIT EDGES First press hem allowance to inside by 7 mm (1/4"), then press completely to inside and pin. Distribute the extra fullness round the curves evenly. Stitch a narrow hem. Trim allowances of side seams to 7 mm (1/4"), neaten together and press onto back. Press sleeve hem allowance to inside, turn half in and pin. Stitch a narrow hem.
Step 11
STEP 11: SETTING IN SLEEVES Pin sleeve into armhole with right sides facing. When setting in sleeves, three points are important for proper fi t: Match sleeve seam with side seam. Match markings 5 on sleeve and front. Match marking at sleeve cap with shoulder seam. Baste sleeve, slightly easing sleeve cap between •. Stitch sleeves. Trim allowances, neaten together and press toward sleeves at sleeve caps.
Step 12
STEP 12: TIE BELT Stitch belt pieces (a) right sides together to one long strip. Press allowances open. Fold tie belt in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Stitch edges together 1.5 cm (5/8") wide, leaving an opening for turning. Backstitch to secure ends of stitching. Trim allowances, trim corners at an angle. Turn tie belt press. Sew up opening in seam with small stitches by hand.
FINISHED! Whether you style it sporty, as shown here, or in an elegant fashion with pencil trousers or skirts, this tunic with its V-neckline in front and back and a tying belt is sure to fit your style.