Sewing Lesson: #107A Pleated Bermuda Shorts 07/2019
1
Jul
Refer to the "pattern’s store page" for specific fabric yardage and notion requirements. Also remember to add seam allowance (you can either add to the paper pattern before cutting or to the fabric around the pattern… see below), further info and amounts can be found in the instructions PDF after purchase.
STEP 1: CUT OUT THE FABRIC PIECES Fold the fabric in half lengthwise with right side facing in and matching the selvages. Pin paper pattern pieces to the fabric as shown in the pattern layout. Use chalk to mark seam and hem allowances on the fabric round the edges of the paper pattern pieces: 1.5 cm (5/8") for seams and 4 cm (15/8") at hems. Cut out the pieces on these lines.
STEP 2: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS Use dressmaker's carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and all other lines and marking to the wrong side of the pieces. Follow the instructions included with the carbon paper. Use basting thread to mark facing fold lines, hem lines and pleat lines on the right fabric side.
STEP 3: DARTS / BACK TROUSER PIECES Fold back trouser pieces so that dart lines meet. Right side of fabric faces in. Pin darts and stitch toward points of darts. Knot ends of thread. Press darts toward centre back. Neaten side edges (seam number 1) on front and back trouser pieces with zigzag stitching or over-lock stitch.
STEP 4: INVISIBLE ZIP Open zip and pin face down right sides together with left back trouser piece. Teeth of zip begin on marked fold line and lie on marked seam line, zip tapes lie on allowance. Turn in end of zip tapes. Use the special presser foot to stitch zip close to teeth. The teeth of an invisible zip roll inward and are held flat by the special presser foot.
STEP 5: INVISIBLE ZIP Pin and stitch other half of zip to left front trouser piece likewise. Stitch both halves of zip from upper edge to slit mark.
STEP 6: LEFT SIDE SEAM Lay front trouser piece with zip right sides together with back trouser piece. Pin left side seam. Stitch seam from lower edges as far as possible to ends of stitching lines for zip, laying end of zip aside. Backstitch to secure ends of stitching. Press allowances open.
STEP 7: RIGHT SIDE SEAM For the right trouser leg, lay front trouser piece on back trouser piece with right fabric sides facing. Pin side seam from upper to lower edges (seam number 1) and stitch. Press allowances open.
STEP 8: I NSIDE LEG SEAMS Pin inside leg seams on both trouser legs (seam number 2), right side of fabric faces in. Stitch seams. Neaten allowances and press open.
STEP 9: CENTER SEAM Turn just one leg so that right fabric side faces out on one leg and right fabric side faces in on the other leg. Place legs one inside the other with right fabric sides facing. Pin centre seam, matching inside leg seams. Stitch seam from upper front to upper back edge. Trim allowances to 7 mm (1/4"), neaten together and press to one side.
STEP 10: UPPER EDGE Neaten self-facing at upper edge of garment. Press facing to inside on marked fold line, baste. Sew on side edges at zip tapes by hand.
STEP 11: STITCH FROM PLEATS Fold front trouser piece so that lines connected by an arrow meet, right fabric side facing in. Pin lines together and stitch between pleat arrows. Backstitch to secure ends of stitching. Press pleats toward centre front. Topstitch upper trousers edge 5 cm (2") wide, catching facing. Tip: Use a hand gauge and straight pins to mark the exact width of topstitching. Important: The pleat folds should point toward centre front and the darts toward center back when stitching.
STEP 12: HEM First stitch hem 7 mm (1/4") wide, then press to inside on marked hem line. Baste hem and stitch again close to basted edge.
FINISHED! So breezy and stylish. The Bermudas are sewn with a striped linen and include stitched down pleats left open at the waist for a playful touch that replaces an attached waistband. You can still highlight this effect and add accent at the waist by wearing a belt.
STEP 1: CUT OUT THE FABRIC PIECES Fold the fabric in half lengthwise with right side facing in and matching the selvages. Pin paper pattern pieces to the fabric as shown in the pattern layout. Use chalk to mark seam and hem allowances on the fabric round the edges of the paper pattern pieces: 1.5 cm (5/8") for seams and 4 cm (15/8") at hems. Cut out the pieces on these lines.
STEP 2: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS Use dressmaker's carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and all other lines and marking to the wrong side of the pieces. Follow the instructions included with the carbon paper. Use basting thread to mark facing fold lines, hem lines and pleat lines on the right fabric side.
STEP 3: DARTS / BACK TROUSER PIECES Fold back trouser pieces so that dart lines meet. Right side of fabric faces in. Pin darts and stitch toward points of darts. Knot ends of thread. Press darts toward centre back. Neaten side edges (seam number 1) on front and back trouser pieces with zigzag stitching or over-lock stitch.
STEP 4: INVISIBLE ZIP Open zip and pin face down right sides together with left back trouser piece. Teeth of zip begin on marked fold line and lie on marked seam line, zip tapes lie on allowance. Turn in end of zip tapes. Use the special presser foot to stitch zip close to teeth. The teeth of an invisible zip roll inward and are held flat by the special presser foot.
STEP 5: INVISIBLE ZIP Pin and stitch other half of zip to left front trouser piece likewise. Stitch both halves of zip from upper edge to slit mark.
STEP 6: LEFT SIDE SEAM Lay front trouser piece with zip right sides together with back trouser piece. Pin left side seam. Stitch seam from lower edges as far as possible to ends of stitching lines for zip, laying end of zip aside. Backstitch to secure ends of stitching. Press allowances open.
STEP 7: RIGHT SIDE SEAM For the right trouser leg, lay front trouser piece on back trouser piece with right fabric sides facing. Pin side seam from upper to lower edges (seam number 1) and stitch. Press allowances open.
STEP 8: I NSIDE LEG SEAMS Pin inside leg seams on both trouser legs (seam number 2), right side of fabric faces in. Stitch seams. Neaten allowances and press open.
STEP 9: CENTER SEAM Turn just one leg so that right fabric side faces out on one leg and right fabric side faces in on the other leg. Place legs one inside the other with right fabric sides facing. Pin centre seam, matching inside leg seams. Stitch seam from upper front to upper back edge. Trim allowances to 7 mm (1/4"), neaten together and press to one side.
STEP 10: UPPER EDGE Neaten self-facing at upper edge of garment. Press facing to inside on marked fold line, baste. Sew on side edges at zip tapes by hand.
STEP 11: STITCH FROM PLEATS Fold front trouser piece so that lines connected by an arrow meet, right fabric side facing in. Pin lines together and stitch between pleat arrows. Backstitch to secure ends of stitching. Press pleats toward centre front. Topstitch upper trousers edge 5 cm (2") wide, catching facing. Tip: Use a hand gauge and straight pins to mark the exact width of topstitching. Important: The pleat folds should point toward centre front and the darts toward center back when stitching.
STEP 12: HEM First stitch hem 7 mm (1/4") wide, then press to inside on marked hem line. Baste hem and stitch again close to basted edge.
FINISHED! So breezy and stylish. The Bermudas are sewn with a striped linen and include stitched down pleats left open at the waist for a playful touch that replaces an attached waistband. You can still highlight this effect and add accent at the waist by wearing a belt.
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