Sewing Lesson: #106 Sheer Kimono 04/2019
Refer to the "pattern’s store page" for specific fabric yardage and notion requirements. Also remember to add seam allowance (you can either add to the paper pattern before cutting or to the fabric around the pattern… see below), further info and amounts can be found in the instructions PDF after purchase.
NEW Kimono Fabric Step 1
STEP 1: CUT OUT THE FABRIC PIECES Fold the fabric in half lengthwise, right side facing in and matching the selvedges. Pin paper pattern pieces to the fabric as shown in the cutting layout. Place piece 2 at the fabric fold. Use chalk to mark 1.5 cm (5/8") seam and hem allowances round all edges of the pieces. Finally, use chalk and a ruler to mark pieces a, b, c directly on the fabric from the fold. Cut out all fabric pieces on these lines.
Step 2
STEP 2: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS Use dressmaker's carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and also other lines, notches and slit mark to the wrong side of the pieces. Follow the instructions included with the carbon paper. Use basting thread to mark pocket abutting lines on right fabric side of front pieces.
Step 3
STEP 3: POCKETS Press upper pocket edge 1 cm (3/8") wide and then 6 cm (23/8") wide to inside, pin and stitch close to edge. Neaten remaining edges and press 1.5 cm (5/8") wide to inside. Baste pockets on front at abutting lines and stitch close to edges.
Step 4
STEP 4: SHOULDER SEAMS FRONT EDGES / NECKLINE Lay front pieces right sides together with back. Pin shoulder seams (seam number 1) and stitch. Trim allowances to 7 mm (1/4"), neaten together and press onto back. Now fi rst trim allowance at front edges and at neckline to 7 mm (1/4"), then press to inside on marked seam line and pin. Stitch allowance close to edge.
Step 5
STEP 5: STITCH ON SLEEVES Pin sleeves right sides together with armhole edges, matching markings 2. Match marking at sleeve cap with shoulder seam. Stitch sleeves. Trim allowances to 7 mm (1/4"), neaten together and press toward sleeves.
Step 6
STEP 6: SLEEVE AND SIDE SEAMS / SLITS Lay front pieces right sides together with back. Fold sleeves lengthwise. Pin side seams and sleeve seams. Stitch seams, leaving openings in side seams for tie band as marked (arrows). Backstitch to secure stitching at seam ends. Neaten allowances and press open.
Step 7
STEP 7: BACK / CASING Neaten edges of facing strip (b). Now first press long edges and then narrow edges 1.5 cm (5/8") wide to inside. Topstitch narrow edges 1 cm (3/8") wide. Pin facing strip on inside of back piece at abutting lines. Match ends with slit edges. Stitch facing strip close to upper and lower edges.
Step 8
STEP 8: TIE BAND Stitch pieces (c) right sides together to one long strip. Press allowances open. Fold tie band in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Stitch edges together 1.5 cm (5/8") wide, leaving an opening for turning. Backstitch to secure ends of stitching. Trim allowances, trim corners at an angle. Turn tie band, press. Topstitch band close to edges, stitching up opening in seam. Use a safety pin as a bodkin to insert tie band into back casing and out through slits.
Step 9
STEP 9: HEM / SLEEVE HEM First press hem allowance under by 7 mm (1/4"), then press to inside on marked seam line. Stitch a narrow hem. Stitch allowance at slit edges likewise, stitching across top of each slit.