Burda Style For people who sew

An alternative method of creating garments to using patterns constructed in standard sizes, is to construct a pattern using custom measurements - this results in a garment with a near-perfect fit. The disadvantage is that all the pattern manipulation must be done by the home sewer. However, a great deal of creative variation is possible from such a custom-made pattern using even minor changes. Here I present a step-by-step method to construct the close-fitting basic bodice block. The term "block" is used to describe a pre-pattern template - additional manipulation is required at the end to generate a pattern (e.g. changing the bust dart, adding seam allowances, etc.). This version of the basic bodice block is used to support the development of the bra pattern posted previously, but can also be used for a variety of other garments. You may also want to look at the companion "sleeve how-to" (http://www.burdastyle.com/howtos/show/1714). The close-fitting variation has less ease introduced than other blocks. The process involved is called "drafting", but the term should not cause worry. Each of the steps shall be described in detail so that the beginner can follow the method without previous drafting experience. To follow the steps, you will need a ruler, preferably a transparent ruler about a meter (yard) long, perhaps a smaller ruler, a sharp pencil, and a French curve (although a dinner plate can do in a pinch!). You will also need a calculator, and a set of body measurements. A word about the body measurements needed. The construction method requires the bust measurement, the waist measurement, the shoulder length, the nape to waist length, and the neck size. In addition, the back width is used along with the armscye depth, the chest width and the bust dart width. However, these latter four measurments may be estimated from the former set of measurements. In fact, using only the bust measurement, the nape to waist length and the neck size, the remainder of the measurements can be estimated. However, the more measurement estimation goes on, the less perfect the resulting bodice block will fit. It is better to use more measurements than less, but the construction process can proceed with less measurements. Finally, the construction process described will work for standard body types, but may need additional adapting for higher bust sizes (above 45" (115 cm) and large bra cup sizes (D and above). This block construction method has been adapted from the following reference : Winifred Aldrich, <i>Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear, 5th ed.</i>, Blackwell Publishing: Oxford, 2008, 215 pp.

Technique Materials

paper or cardboard, ruler, pencil, calculator, French curve (or dinner plate), set of body measurements, compass (optional)

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50 Comments

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  Jan 7, 2012, 01.51 PMby saylavie

  Very clear instructions for the most part. However, everything appeared to be going swimmingly until I got to about step 27 and realized there’s no way an arm can fit through the armhole, as the opening is only 3.3cm wide! I cannot for the life of me figure out where I went wrong. It seems the front chest measurement would be the obvious answer, but it is correct as far as I can tell….Any clues as to what the problem might be? Thanks for the nice tutorial! I can’t wait to finish and use this!!
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  Dec 22, 2011, 06.00 AMby KimFoley

  What resources have you used to learn drafting. You say you have done a lot of research, which is the phase I’m in now. Book suggestions? Thanks!,
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  Oct 31, 2011, 02.38 AMby JeAnn Murray

  I love this! I like how detailed it is. Where I am learning, the bodice block doesn’t have shoulder darts, and I didn’t know the seam allowance wasn’t suppose to be on the block but on the pattern (I thought block and pattern was the same thing). Very educational and I really appreciate that you took the time to go through this. I will be making a block soon, hopefully on cardboard paper so it lasts longer.
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  Aug 6, 2011, 08.27 PMby neruda88

  I made this bodice block and it turned out perfect. Thanks
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  Jul 24, 2011, 03.50 AMby kelsrose22

  Thank you so much! I created my bodice block and it is amazing how easy it is to draft dress patterns now for my large bust and smaller rib cage that has made following patterns almost impossible. Thank you!

  1 Reply

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    Jul 24, 2011, 04.19 PMby gedwoods

    It’s good to know the block is working for a wide range of body types! Thanks for the feedback!

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  Jun 16, 2011, 06.07 PMby Lady--t

  I tried this out and it turned out quite well. Thanks alot for this.
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  Jun 8, 2011, 06.30 PMby zrinka

  HI,

  I used your method (combined with instruction from Aldrich Metric Pattern Cutting) and another method for creating close fitting slopers by Bunka FAshion College and compared the two. I compared the drawings and then I made the slopers and compared the fit on a dressform. If you are interested, see the project here: http://www.burdastyle.com/projects/comparing-close-fitting-slopers-bunka-vs-aldrich

  1 Reply

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    Aug 13, 2011, 06.40 AMby cloff

    This is really interesting! I used Aldrich in school, and I finally got an adequate sloper from it. I had to do a lot of altering because I was a G cup size at that time, and it works great from the start for smaller women.

    I’d be really interested to know which method you liked better?

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  May 19, 2011, 06.54 AMby zrinka

  Hi, first of all thank you for the tutorial. I have one question: You mentioned that this tutorial is an adaptation from Winifred Aldrich, Metric Pattern Cutting for Women’s Wear, 5th ed. I was comparing the two and found one discrepancy. The D-R line in your tutorial is calculated as neck/5 + 0.7 cm. In the book, the corresponding line (points 4 to 20) are calculated as neck/5 – 0.7. When I use your formula, pointS R, W A and X are all moved to the left, and X falls almost directly above Z. It looks skewed. It also looks different from your sketch. Could that be a typo? Or do you simply use a different formula? Thanks!

  1 Reply

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    May 22, 2011, 05.32 PMby gedwoods

    Hello, I thought I had changed this much earlier, but your comment clued me in to the fact that the correction was never made. It is made now!

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  May 12, 2011, 10.39 PMby isabellaria14

  Does this include seam allowance already, and if so how much? Thanks so much for posting this tutorial!

  1 Reply

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    Jul 24, 2011, 04.08 PMby gedwoods

    Seam allowances are never, to my knowledge, included in “blocks”, as usually these must be manipulated in substantive ways before a final pattern is obtained (for example, you will almost certainly want to swivel the dart around to a different location). So, no seam allowances included!

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  Apr 19, 2011, 05.20 PMby woman

  gedwoods, thank you very much for posting this. it was a tough process for me because i generally kinda dislike maths, but i must say it was very rewarding because now i have my own custom basic bodice block. can’t wait to manipulate it into variations! THANK YOU SO MUCH!
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  Mar 30, 2011, 08.08 AMby anlusaro

  Hello, thanks for this post! I want to try this, but I am 1,51 m short, my bust measurement is 97 cm, and my waist is 76cm….will this work for me?

  1 Reply

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    Jul 24, 2011, 04.10 PMby gedwoods

    I can’t tell just from your measurements whether this will work or not. It seems to work for most people, but there have been some reported problems in particular cases. You’ll just have to try to it out to see.

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  Mar 25, 2011, 11.50 AMby eriblox

  I’ve made a dress using your tutorial and it fits perfectly. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us!

  This is this dress I made: http://www.burdastyle.com/projects/pink-dress-with-buttons
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  Mar 7, 2011, 04.11 PMby urbanista

  Hello there! I want to say THANK YOU so much, I’ve been trying to make a bodice pattern since forever, but no matter what I do something comes out wrong. Using your pattern,the bodice fit almost perfectly! It was better then all the other directions I’ve had. I’m just having problems with two areas. The arm part and the neck part. Below are pictures of what I mean.

  http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b382/Yankeegyrl4life/IMAG0212.jpg

  there is an excess of fabric in the arm parts, how can I fix this without putting a dart in the arm? How can I utilize the other darts to make it more tighter in that area?

  http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b382/Yankeegyrl4life/IMAG0213.jpg http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b382/Yankeegyrl4life/IMAG0215.jpg

  There is also an excess of fabric in the neck for some reason, I think it will be fixed if I just make the upper darts wider? I’m not experienced at pattern making or pattern adjusting at all, I could use some pointers if that’s ok?

  Thank you so much again!

  One more question, it is possible to make a sweet heart neckline with this pattern? http://www.vampal.com/Products/41-purple-organza-sequin-sweetheart-neckline-cocktail-dress.aspx

  1 Reply

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    Mar 7, 2011, 05.41 PMby gedwoods

    Okay, I’ve looked at your images and have some comments… they are really more suggestions than, perhaps, final answers. What you have to remember is that this does not generate a pattern, but rather a “block”, which is a kind of “pattern template”. The block is meant to be further manipulated to get a pattern. So, for example, I’ve noticed that you’ve put in the vertical darts as they are in the block. You can certainly do this, but this is not the ideal place to locate the dart and this is not usually done this way. Typically, what is done is to cut from the bust point out to the seam in another area (e.g. under the arm) and then swivel the pattern piece between the dart shown in the block and the new cutline to fill in the dart shown in the block. This creates a new dart under the arm, which is where you have your excess fabric, so it may solve that problem (essentially, this rotation procedure preserves the bust shaping while moving the actual dart line to a place that is more aesthetically pleasing). Note that these manipulations apply to the pattern, not the fabric – that is, a cutline on the pattern need not be a seamline in the fabric!

    For the neck, you may simply redraw the neck to ensure it fits right. If the excess material is across the chest, however, this won’t work. Widening the dart as you suggest should help, but the dart usually goes to the shoulder seam, not the neck line. You could widen the dart, make a new cutline from the bust point to the neck and swivel the new pattern piece to fill up part of the vertical dart (still leaving some room to move the rest of the dart to the armhole). If the extra material in the neck is small, another way to do this would be to cut the pattern down the CF line and trim off about 0.5 cm (on each side of the CF line), then retape the pattern together – this is a “cheat” because it will change all the body fit all the way down, but if it’s a small amount, you may be able to get away with it. Essentially, you are downsizing the pattern block slightly when you do tis.

    For the sweetheart dress, again, this “block” can be manipulated to get any pattern you want… but the manipulations aren’t always simple. You really need a good book on pattern manipulation to do this – look at the Pepin book online (at www.vintagesewing.com) for a good reference. This is absolutely free and there’s lots of people on the BurdaStyle site who use it as a reference, so you can get help if you get stuck!

    Rather longwinded reply… hope you get the gist of it!

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  Feb 3, 2011, 05.02 AMby himechan

  Thank you very much for this tutorial! It is very clear and easy to follow :) But would it be possible to put up a preface with all the measurements needed, and how they should be measured? I’m a bit of a strange size myself, so I am a little wary of using estimates for all the lines. Or could you point me to a site i could refer to? I have come across several sites with info on how to measure, for instance, the shoulder, but they all seem to differ :( Thank you!
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  Feb 2, 2011, 04.50 AMby Sallee

  wow, I am only beginning to learn to sew, and I came across this tutorial. It took awhile but I completed my bodice block, and the fit is amazing! Your instructions are fantastic, so precise and patient enough even for a beginner like me.

  Do you have any tutorials that you could possibly post on other custom blocks, like for a skirt that I can attach to the bodice?

  Sorry, it might be something that is really simple to experienced people but I am still trying to get my head around how the measurements all fit together, so any help would be much appreciated!

  Thank you. :)

  1 Reply

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    Feb 2, 2011, 04.17 PMby gedwoods

    Look under my studio – you’ll see I’ve posted half a dozen tutorials – pants, a skirt, a bra, an overshirt, a dress… you should see something you’ll like. Reports are that these all work pretty well…

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  Jan 29, 2011, 01.16 AMby milkyway

  OH MY GOD THIS IS AMAZING!! THANK YOU
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  Dec 12, 2010, 10.07 PMby mixtlii

  Hi, Thanks for this technique, it works pretty well! I’m so excited about making a pattern that really fits me…

  I have a problem though, with the armholes. With the pattern I drafted, they were way too high under my arm, so I cut it out and now it’s a little loose on the front. So I took a little up the shoulder seam. Is that the correct thing to do? Also, the front darts are too much on the sides. How can I put them more in the middle?

  I hope I don’t have to start all over again, because it took me like 3h !!!

  Thanks :)
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  Nov 7, 2010, 02.30 PMby astreet1

  Hello, I want to make a tutu, and was wondering if this would be appropriate for the bodice it? How would I make this pattern into a ten piece bodice, and do you have any idea where on the block the basque of the tutu would be?

  1 Reply

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    Nov 7, 2010, 07.45 PMby gedwoods

    I’ve never made a tutu, so I’m guessing. But isn’t a tutu strapless? It seems to me the bodice is more corset like than this bodice block – that is, it requires a tighter fit to the body shape than this block provides. I think the bodice block has too much built-in ease for you. I would use a corset pattern as a basis. There are several (free) corset patterns around, such as those found on the elizabethan costumes site or on the costume manifesto site. There are others, but these provide a good place to start. You will probably need some boning, but I suspect you could work with plastic boning to give some support rather than going to the steel boning used in specialty corsets.

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  Oct 10, 2010, 04.49 PMby gedwoods

  Okay, while working on the block I encountered the same problem with the armscye as everyone else here! The reason I never encountered it before, is that I was using the CHEST estimate formula rather than my direct measurements. I suspect the problem with plus sizes is a consequence of this, since women with plus sizes are probably using their own measurements rather than the default ones! So anyone who used the formula estimates would have had no trouble with the block, but anyone who used their own values instead of the formulas would have encountered problems!

  The solution to the problem seems to be … FORGET ABOUT USING A DIRECT CHEST MEASUREMENT – instead use the estimation formula provided, that determines the CHEST value from the BUST size. If your BACK size differs from the back estimate determined by its formula, you may need to adjust the chest estimate slightly, pushing it down a little if the back measurement is larger than the estimate or extending it a little if you have a smaller than normal back (use the size of the difference between the default and your measurement of the back to estimate the size of the scaling applied to the chest – hence if you need to reduce the back by 5%, increase the chest estimate by 5% to compensate – note that this is a suggestion – I haven’t actually tried this out!) As always, do a muslin shell to make sure the thing fits!

  I’ve updated the text to make this clearer (I hope!).

  1 Reply

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    Nov 11, 2010, 10.31 AMby lilly-anne

    I didn’t have the overlaping problem even when I used my measurments, but it was so close that I was afraid it may cause problems in the fit. I did something similar to what you suggest. I compared the estimated back to my back and added the difference to the estimated chest. Problem seems to be solved, at least for me.

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  Sep 11, 2010, 05.05 AMby kristybiscuit

  I have the same problem as others with the overlapping armscye – I re-checked my measurements and calculations a million times (I am very precise) and I also don’t think it is a “large bust” problem – I am a C cup with 89cm bust measurement, and of medium slimness (I am 5’7" 135 lbs). I think it may be a matter of proportions, perhaps? Such as the relative difference between bust and ribcage? (I think I may have a somewhat narrow ribcage, which is nearly the same measurement as my natural waistline). I’m going to try splitting the front and back pieces of the sloper, but I think I will get confused when it comes to the side waist darts…

  1 Reply

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    Sep 19, 2010, 02.27 PMby gedwoods

    Here’s my suggestion. If you could send me your measurements (or the one’s you are using), I will try to reproduce your problem and see where that takes me!

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  Sep 7, 2010, 12.24 PMby lilly-anne

  This is a fantastic guide. I would have a question, however. I want to make a close-fitting blouse to wear over my underbust corset. It has 15cm waist reduction, so my measurments in it are104/62/108. I’d need some advice on this, please. Do I need any ease on the waist? I doubt it, the corset wont allow any shifting or breathing in, but what do I know…. Also, are there any other adjustments than just the waist darts I need to do? I’ve seen this formula for estimating the bust dart and I’d like to ask you what do you think about using it in my case instead of figuring it form the bust measurment: Dart Width = ((Bust – Waist) x (Dart Length)) / (4 x Waist To Bust Point). It takes the waist into account, so I think it may be better. (anything that takes the waist into account is better for me. Always, corseted or not. :-D)

  1 Reply

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    Sep 8, 2010, 01.42 AMby gedwoods

    Regarding the ease at the waist, this is meant to be fairly close fitting – I would make the blouse using your measurements within the corset without adjusting the ease, unless you want the blouse really tight – won’t the corset structure show through, though, if you make it very tight? As for the dart formula, I’m not familiar with this variation, so I don’t think I can comment on it. As with all things sewing, what not try it out and see, for example, on a trial muslin?

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  May 31, 2010, 08.41 AMby ali-krysta

  Hi, with regards to the large bust size problem I’ve found the solution, with your permission I would like to post a tutorial containing extension instructions for this one, although it may be a few weeks before I do. Thanks for all your help :)

  3 Replies

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    May 31, 2010, 01.05 PMby gedwoods

    Sounds super!

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    Jul 7, 2010, 08.07 AMby gelbegardinen

    Hi, so I just wondered what do you consider a large bust here? I know that patterns usually opt for a B cup but when large too large for this?

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    Jul 13, 2010, 09.49 AMby ali-krysta

    hi, dsorry for the delay, my laptop keyboaed is broken and I am waiting for a replacwment.
    what I meam by a large bust is a lage bust in proportion to the rest of thr torso. for this example I will use the underbust measurwment. the bust measurement of a B cup is 2 inches bigger than the undrbust, but my bust measurement is 8 ivhes bigger tan my underbust. i would guess (based on my own pattern, so im probably wrong) that this tutorial works for up to a 4 or 5 inch difference.
    please correvt me if im wrong, but dont expect a quick response, ths just took me half an hour + to type!

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  Apr 21, 2010, 11.59 AMby sojo

  This may be an obvious question, but when you use your bodice block do you cut two pieces from it? Thanks for making this by the way, it must have taken a lot of work!

  1 Reply

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    Apr 21, 2010, 02.08 PMby gedwoods

    How many pieces you make depends on the project. For example, for a princess line dress, you will typically cut three pieces from this (hence six pieces for the whole garment, since this is only half the garment). For many garments, however, you would cut two pieces from this, yes.

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  Apr 19, 2010, 05.33 PMby seemane

  Hi (again!) Gedwoods,

  I’ve posted 2 Q’s for your perusal please: Step 14 and Step 16.

  Many thanks, Seemane :)

  2 Replies

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    Apr 20, 2010, 02.07 AMby gedwoods

    I’ve changed the text in both places. Thanks for catching these errors!

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    Apr 20, 2010, 09.09 PMby seemane

    Ahhh, thank you loads! Glad to know I understood it correctly.

    Many thanks,
    Seemane

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  Mar 21, 2010, 03.40 AMby govender

  Thanks for your post.I’m having lots of fun doing it and learning a whole lot at the same time. Just one question-IStep 20. I can’t seem to fiqure out the dart size-tried to work it out from the bust size but it ends up being too small. My bust size is 92 cm ( I added 0.6 cm since your instructions say for ea. 4 cm over 88 cm add 0.6 ) So should the dart width be 0.6 cm’s? Is that not too small?

  1 Reply

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    Mar 21, 2010, 08.38 PMby gedwoods

    Sorry, my instructions do spell this out, but the point is a bit subtle. You add 0,6 cm to the base DART size of 7,0 cm., hence the final DART size will be 7,6 cm for you.

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  Mar 14, 2010, 10.10 PMby hamimey

  i need help with this step 20. my back measurement is 15" but i dont know how much to add or substract for the dart………………PLEASE HELP. Thanks

  1 Reply

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    Mar 21, 2010, 08.39 PMby gedwoods

    It’s the BUST measurement that you need to estimate the DART size, not the BACK measurement. I’m not sure what else to suggest….

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  Feb 4, 2010, 10.18 PMby tiggems

  Hi I really want to try this out, but I am not sure how to measure the ‘’shoulder length’’ and the ’’armscye’’. Please, for novices, can you elaborate, because otherwise I will mess up from step 12 onwards. Also, is there a book that you can recommend? Thanks

  1 Reply

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    Feb 5, 2010, 04.51 AMby gedwoods

    Shoulder length is essentially from the neck line to the edge of the shoulder – think about where you want the shoulder seam to lie. None of these measurements are precise to the mm, but to the half inch (or cm), more or less. The armscye is the circumference of the arm where it joins the shoulder – run a tape measure round the arm from the shoulder, past the underarm and back to the top… that is the armscye. The book I use is Winnifrid Aldritch’s Metric Pattern Cutting for Womens Wear, but it costs quite a bit (about 50$ US). Harriet Pepin’s book (Modern Pattern Design) is available free of charge from the following website : http://www.vintagesewing.info/1940s/42-mpd/mpd-04.html – this is an excellent reference book, albeit with a somewhat different focus than Aldrich’s book. Good luck with your efforts, and have fun!

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  Dec 16, 2009, 05.03 AMby ebony50

  How can i print the instructions without all the discussions ,i’m trying to save the environment ,lol.i just want to condense it to intructions only

  1 Reply

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    Mar 21, 2010, 08.58 PMby gedwoods

    I don’t know… you’ll have to ask one of the BurdaStyle people – post the question in the appropriate Web Feedback section.

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  Nov 30, 2009, 05.15 PMby gedwoods

  Regarding the question of adjusting the sloper for plus sizes : While searching on the web for a solution, I found the following site : “http://pattern.stringcodes.com/pat-AA.html”. The site presents slopers to buy for a range of sizes and measurements, but what is interesting is that the image of the sloper updates when you choose different size options in the popup menu. They do appear to cover some plus sizes (26W for a 52" bust), so by fixing the appropriate size, you get a view of what the sloper should look like – without actually buying the product. It seems to me that this might help making appropriate adjustments to the results of my block instructions. It’s just a thought – I’ll keep looking for a more direct solution!
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  Nov 22, 2009, 05.43 PMby glasstapper

  Hi! I just wanted to thank you for the loads of work this must have taken… I feel like I’ve taken an SAT after a few hours of figuring out all these measurements, so writing the instructions must have been even harder!

  But, my problem seems to be the same as Ali-Krysta’s. My point T goes past my BC halfway point, making my front and back overlap and my armholes impossible. Like her, I have a very large cup size, and my ‘chest’ measurement is 52cm, not 37.2 like the estimate says it should be about. I tried my best to keep the measuring tape parallel to the ground, but there’s no way to avoid getting breast tissue in that measurement, but it seems better to put the right one than fudge it, or else a shirt would be way too tight.

  Since the AB measurement is supposed to be 1/2 bust + 5cm, it seems like the natural conclusion is to split the sloper vertically between points L and C, making room for both front and back (that’s assuming the extra 5cm is to allow for room on the average-busted girl). However, since all of these measurements and angles are so interrelated, I’m not sure how much I could safely split the sloper without messing up angles I need.

  Is splitting the sloper the right answer? If so, by how much? Will this impact my following measurements? Should I split the sloper from the first step and make BC longer, or wait until a later step? Making the whole pattern wider will affect other things as well, like the angle that D meets O, so I wanted to check up with the architectural mastermind. :)

  Thanks so much, glasstapper

  2 Replies

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    Nov 30, 2009, 04.49 PMby gedwoods

    When I was working on the bra sloper, I found a problem with the overlapping pieces at the side seam. I simply split the difference and this seemed to work well, but I’m unsure how well it will work with the bodice block. I do understand about the armholes too – I did one dress with for a busty friend for which the armholes came out looking very odd. I was tempted to correct the shape, but didn’t, and the result seemed to work. If the shape clearly does not, however, it surely needs to be adjusted. The bodice block as presented is not designed to work with plus sizes, and I have no experience working with bust sizes for which the sloper does not work, so I’m not sure how I can do more. I have it in mind, when I have some spare time, to try out the instructions on a large bust size and see if I can work out the problems myself, but the fall session has been extremely demanding and I’ve had no time to do this. Not sure what else to suggest..

    In response to the comment from missfshn following, I really do disagree. I have used these blocks to create tops and dresses for more than a dozen different body types and shapes with no significant difficulties. I do use a muslin shell to make adjustments, however, and recommend doing so.

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    Jan 8, 2010, 08.00 AMby mlssfshn

    This method is really better suited for dress forms and not real human bodies. Humans are not symmetrical and your body measurements and shape are different than a mannequin. Doing a fitted muslin is better for making a pattern for people.