Burda Style For people who sew

An alternative method of creating garments to using patterns constructed in standard sizes, is to construct a pattern using custom measurements - this results in a garment with a near-perfect fit. The disadvantage is that all the pattern manipulation must be done by the home sewer. However, a great deal of creative variation is possible from such a custom-made pattern using even minor changes. Here I present a step-by-step method to construct the close-fitting basic bodice block. The term "block" is used to describe a pre-pattern template - additional manipulation is required at the end to generate a pattern (e.g. changing the bust dart, adding seam allowances, etc.). This version of the basic bodice block is used to support the development of the bra pattern posted previously, but can also be used for a variety of other garments. You may also want to look at the companion <a href="http://www.burdastyle.com/howtos/show/1714">sleeve how-to</a>. The close-fitting variation has less ease introduced than other blocks.<br><br> The process involved is called "drafting", but the term should not cause worry. Each of the steps shall be described in detail so that the beginner can follow the method without previous drafting experience. To follow the steps, you will need a ruler, preferably a transparent ruler about a meter (yard) long, perhaps a smaller ruler, a sharp pencil, and a French curve (although a dinner plate can do in a pinch!). You will also need a calculator, and a set of body measurements.<br><br> A word about the body measurements needed. The construction method requires the bust measurement, the waist measurement, the shoulder length, the nape to waist length, the neck size, and the chest width. In addition, the back width is used along with the armscye depth and the bust dart width. However, these latter three measurments may be estimated from the former set of measurements. In fact, using only the bust measurement, the nape to waist length and the neck size, the remainder of the measurements can be estimated. However, the more measurement estimation goes on, the less perfect the resulting bodice block will fit. It is better to use more measurements than less, but the construction process can proceed with less measurements.<br><br> Finally, the construction process described will work for standard body types, but may need additional adapting for higher bust sizes (above 45" (115 cm) and large bra cup sizes (D and above). <br><br> This block construction method has been adapted from the following reference : Winifred Aldrich, <i>Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear, 5th ed.</i>, Blackwell Publishing: Oxford, 2008, 215 pp.<br><br> Please note that, as of March 5th, I've made a few relatively minor adjustments to the measurements.

Technique Materials

paper or cardboard, ruler, pencil, calculator, French curve (or dinner plate), set of body measurements, compass (optional)

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51 Comments

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  May 31, 2010, 08.41 AMby ali-krysta

  Hi, with regards to the large bust size problem I’ve found the solution, with your permission I would like to post a tutorial containing extension instructions for this one, although it may be a few weeks before I do. Thanks for all your help :)

  3 Replies

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    May 31, 2010, 01.05 PMby gedwoods

    Sounds super!

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    Jul 7, 2010, 08.07 AMby gelbegardinen

    Hi, so I just wondered what do you consider a large bust here? I know that patterns usually opt for a B cup but when large too large for this?

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    Jul 13, 2010, 09.49 AMby ali-krysta

    hi, dsorry for the delay, my laptop keyboaed is broken and I am waiting for a replacwment.
    what I meam by a large bust is a lage bust in proportion to the rest of thr torso. for this example I will use the underbust measurwment. the bust measurement of a B cup is 2 inches bigger than the undrbust, but my bust measurement is 8 ivhes bigger tan my underbust. i would guess (based on my own pattern, so im probably wrong) that this tutorial works for up to a 4 or 5 inch difference.
    please correvt me if im wrong, but dont expect a quick response, ths just took me half an hour + to type!

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  Apr 21, 2010, 11.59 AMby sojo

  This may be an obvious question, but when you use your bodice block do you cut two pieces from it? Thanks for making this by the way, it must have taken a lot of work!

  1 Reply

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    Apr 21, 2010, 02.08 PMby gedwoods

    How many pieces you make depends on the project. For example, for a princess line dress, you will typically cut three pieces from this (hence six pieces for the whole garment, since this is only half the garment). For many garments, however, you would cut two pieces from this, yes.

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  Apr 19, 2010, 05.33 PMby Seemane

  Hi (again!) Gedwoods,

  I’ve posted 2 Q’s for your perusal please: Step 14 and Step 16.

  Many thanks, Seemane :)

  2 Replies

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    Apr 20, 2010, 02.07 AMby gedwoods

    I’ve changed the text in both places. Thanks for catching these errors!

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    Apr 20, 2010, 09.09 PMby Seemane

    Ahhh, thank you loads! Glad to know I understood it correctly.

    Many thanks,
    Seemane

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  Mar 21, 2010, 03.40 AMby govender

  Thanks for your post.I’m having lots of fun doing it and learning a whole lot at the same time. Just one question-IStep 20. I can’t seem to fiqure out the dart size-tried to work it out from the bust size but it ends up being too small. My bust size is 92 cm ( I added 0.6 cm since your instructions say for ea. 4 cm over 88 cm add 0.6 ) So should the dart width be 0.6 cm’s? Is that not too small?

  1 Reply

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    Mar 21, 2010, 08.38 PMby gedwoods

    Sorry, my instructions do spell this out, but the point is a bit subtle. You add 0,6 cm to the base DART size of 7,0 cm., hence the final DART size will be 7,6 cm for you.

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  Mar 14, 2010, 10.10 PMby Hamimey

  i need help with this step 20. my back measurement is 15" but i dont know how much to add or substract for the dart………………PLEASE HELP. Thanks

  1 Reply

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    Mar 21, 2010, 08.39 PMby gedwoods

    It’s the BUST measurement that you need to estimate the DART size, not the BACK measurement. I’m not sure what else to suggest….

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  Feb 4, 2010, 10.18 PMby Tiggems

  Hi I really want to try this out, but I am not sure how to measure the ‘’shoulder length’’ and the ’’armscye’’. Please, for novices, can you elaborate, because otherwise I will mess up from step 12 onwards. Also, is there a book that you can recommend? Thanks

  1 Reply

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    Feb 5, 2010, 04.51 AMby gedwoods

    Shoulder length is essentially from the neck line to the edge of the shoulder – think about where you want the shoulder seam to lie. None of these measurements are precise to the mm, but to the half inch (or cm), more or less. The armscye is the circumference of the arm where it joins the shoulder – run a tape measure round the arm from the shoulder, past the underarm and back to the top… that is the armscye. The book I use is Winnifrid Aldritch’s Metric Pattern Cutting for Womens Wear, but it costs quite a bit (about 50$ US). Harriet Pepin’s book (Modern Pattern Design) is available free of charge from the following website : http://www.vintagesewing.info/1940s/42-mpd/mpd-04.html – this is an excellent reference book, albeit with a somewhat different focus than Aldrich’s book. Good luck with your efforts, and have fun!

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  Dec 16, 2009, 05.03 AMby EBONY50

  How can i print the instructions without all the discussions ,i’m trying to save the environment ,lol.i just want to condense it to intructions only

  1 Reply

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    Mar 21, 2010, 08.58 PMby gedwoods

    I don’t know… you’ll have to ask one of the BurdaStyle people – post the question in the appropriate Web Feedback section.

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  Nov 30, 2009, 05.15 PMby gedwoods

  Regarding the question of adjusting the sloper for plus sizes : While searching on the web for a solution, I found the following site : “http://pattern.stringcodes.com/pat-AA.html”. The site presents slopers to buy for a range of sizes and measurements, but what is interesting is that the image of the sloper updates when you choose different size options in the popup menu. They do appear to cover some plus sizes (26W for a 52" bust), so by fixing the appropriate size, you get a view of what the sloper should look like – without actually buying the product. It seems to me that this might help making appropriate adjustments to the results of my block instructions. It’s just a thought – I’ll keep looking for a more direct solution!
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  Nov 22, 2009, 05.43 PMby glasstapper

  Hi! I just wanted to thank you for the loads of work this must have taken… I feel like I’ve taken an SAT after a few hours of figuring out all these measurements, so writing the instructions must have been even harder!

  But, my problem seems to be the same as Ali-Krysta’s. My point T goes past my BC halfway point, making my front and back overlap and my armholes impossible. Like her, I have a very large cup size, and my ‘chest’ measurement is 52cm, not 37.2 like the estimate says it should be about. I tried my best to keep the measuring tape parallel to the ground, but there’s no way to avoid getting breast tissue in that measurement, but it seems better to put the right one than fudge it, or else a shirt would be way too tight.

  Since the AB measurement is supposed to be 1/2 bust + 5cm, it seems like the natural conclusion is to split the sloper vertically between points L and C, making room for both front and back (that’s assuming the extra 5cm is to allow for room on the average-busted girl). However, since all of these measurements and angles are so interrelated, I’m not sure how much I could safely split the sloper without messing up angles I need.

  Is splitting the sloper the right answer? If so, by how much? Will this impact my following measurements? Should I split the sloper from the first step and make BC longer, or wait until a later step? Making the whole pattern wider will affect other things as well, like the angle that D meets O, so I wanted to check up with the architectural mastermind. :)

  Thanks so much, glasstapper

  2 Replies

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    Nov 30, 2009, 04.49 PMby gedwoods

    When I was working on the bra sloper, I found a problem with the overlapping pieces at the side seam. I simply split the difference and this seemed to work well, but I’m unsure how well it will work with the bodice block. I do understand about the armholes too – I did one dress with for a busty friend for which the armholes came out looking very odd. I was tempted to correct the shape, but didn’t, and the result seemed to work. If the shape clearly does not, however, it surely needs to be adjusted. The bodice block as presented is not designed to work with plus sizes, and I have no experience working with bust sizes for which the sloper does not work, so I’m not sure how I can do more. I have it in mind, when I have some spare time, to try out the instructions on a large bust size and see if I can work out the problems myself, but the fall session has been extremely demanding and I’ve had no time to do this. Not sure what else to suggest..

    In response to the comment from missfshn following, I really do disagree. I have used these blocks to create tops and dresses for more than a dozen different body types and shapes with no significant difficulties. I do use a muslin shell to make adjustments, however, and recommend doing so.

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    Jan 8, 2010, 08.00 AMby mlssfshn

    This method is really better suited for dress forms and not real human bodies. Humans are not symmetrical and your body measurements and shape are different than a mannequin. Doing a fitted muslin is better for making a pattern for people.

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  Nov 20, 2009, 07.05 PMby Kicchan

  Hello! Thank you so much for this How To, it’s great and very helpful! :) I have a question though… I’m assigned to sew a morning suit for a man who is a bit corpulent, waist quite larger than chest. There are no patterns his size (and my budget wouldn’t allow it anyways). When drafting him a waistcoat, would I use this block, but instead of half his chest size use half his waist size? Or would I have to use a different drafting technique? Thank you in advance. :)

  2 Replies

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    Nov 30, 2009, 04.56 PMby gedwoods

    This one I know how to deal with, as I am a plus size man myself with large girth. I adjusted the shirt pattern to my girth size, rather than waist or chest size. I should also mention that the block is slightly different for men – I am planning to post instruction for a man’s shirt block early in the new year when I get the time to work it all out. Overall, the women’s bodice block should work – I think I used it to develop one shirt for myself with success.

    I know for my own shirts, I am now working on my third or fourth redesign, each time improving the fit and different aspects of the design to better suit me. I will be presenting these design modifications when I post the man’s shirt block, so keep an eye out for this. In the mean time, use the full girth of your friend for the shirt width (be careful with the “half width” thing, as the back width is slightly smaller than the front width, usually, even in men). Hope that helps!

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    Dec 12, 2009, 04.19 PMby Kicchan

    It did help, thank you so much for your advice! You are very right, his back is slimmer than his tummy. Better look out for that one, so it doesn’t fit funnily, or rather doesn’t fit. I’ll bee checking for further block updates in the future, for sure! :)

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  Aug 31, 2009, 03.43 PMby teodora.godar

  Thank you very much for posting this. I am so hungry for knowledge and to improve my work that I am always happy to see so detailed instruction. Since I did not go to any school for sewing just have experience and exchanged my experience with some experts here and get some good advice,I am always ready for good advice and to learn more,more and more!!! Thank you again so much!!!
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  Aug 27, 2009, 10.38 PMby ali-krysta

  I’ve tried doing this hoping that It would provide a solution for my small back/large bust situation, but I’m finding it impossible to come up with chest measurements without the front and back pieces overlapping! (is the chest measurement supposed to be horizontal to the ground, my breasts get in the way!? When I measure parallel to the ground I find that my chest measurement is about the same as my bust measurement as my back tapers in quite a bit to my waist) Also I have noticed that my bust point is about 2.5 cm lower than this guide suggests, although I have heard elsewhere that it is normal for those above an F cup. Is anyone here in a similar situation? Any tips?

  2 Replies

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    Nov 30, 2009, 05.00 PMby gedwoods

    I’m not sure what to suggest about the measurements – are you doing them with a friend? Making measurements of oneself without help can be tricky. For the overlapping problem, I split the difference at the side seam on the bra block, and this seemed to work – it is a suggestion, though, as I’ve never tried this on the bodice block. For the bust point, it does seem to vary, so adjust it as you need to. If there’s one thing constant about the human body, it is that it varies!

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    Dec 1, 2009, 01.29 PMby ali-krysta

    thankyou for the suggestion, I might use it in the future. I have since found that in the past someone had been mindful enough to write instructions for increasing bust and shoulder width on one of my vintage patterns. I have since altered an existing bodice pattern by this method. (A relief, as most instructions suggest scaling down from a larger size. As it is only two specific areas that need altering significantly, this can seem daunting, as the suggested size to scle down from can seem huge around the arms, waist and back) I’m finding your other tutorials extremely useful, I don’t think It will be long before I have a properly fitting pattern to base all my future clothing on.
    Update: The ready-made bodice is a disaster, so I’m coming back to this method. :)

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  Aug 22, 2009, 08.42 PMby rachellemarie

  Thank you for posting this how-to. I have no drafting experience, but I have made a few projects without a pattern or with my own pattern and always enjoy that more than following someone else’s pattern, so I’m very excited to be able to design my own clothes and control the fit. I made a bodice block and a toile of it without any trouble. Now I am wondering how to evaluate if the toile fits correctly and if not, how to adjust the block. How loose is it supposed to be? I could fit several fists, if I had more than two, inside at the bust level, and the arm holes gape a bit. I think it would be comfortable for a shirt, but not good for a dress. Should I just take in the seams and darts until it fits and then trace that back onto the block, or start a new bodice block with smaller measurements? Thanks!

  2 Replies

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    Aug 28, 2009, 09.47 PMby gedwoods

    I’m not sure how to respond, rachellemarie. If the measurements are right, you shouldn’t need to restart a new block with smaller values – is it possible you added ease into the measurements to begin with? Some people do this with measurements – they add in ease right away – these blocks require that the measurements be “snug” and the ease is added in the drafting process. Also, these blocks are done for a “classic” fit and not a “loose” fit – often different blocks are used for the latter.
    If the measurements are right, then you will have to make changes and adjustments to get things to fit. But I would be careful not to put all the changes into one place – these blocks are designed to “average out” shape issues, and hence the adjustments may need small changes in several places to get things to work. A good book on making adjustments would be useful for this – there are several around.

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    Sep 6, 2009, 04.27 PMby rachellemarie

    Thanks. I ended up taking the toile in at the shoulder and side seams, then going back through the steps of the block to try to see what happened. I found that I had made a mistake with the shoulder and correcting that took care of the extra there. Then I also discovered that I needed to use the full size of the waist darts, even though I doubled checked my measurements and the formula said I shouldn’t. I’m still not sure why that was, but the new toile fits very well.
    Again thanks for sharing all your work.

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  Aug 2, 2009, 05.29 PMby MrsPost

  I’ve done my share of drafting and I’m trying to follow your instructions but the images have the top portion cut off. That makes it difficult to see everything at the top and that’s where a lot of the action takes place.

  The thumbnail images seem fine, just the ones with each step are cropped.

  Any thoughts?

  1 Reply

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    Aug 28, 2009, 09.41 PMby gedwoods

    Every time I look at the images, they seem fine on my computer. But someone else mentioned this. The trouble is, since they look fine on mine, I’m unsure how to modify them so they work!

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  Jul 26, 2009, 09.12 AMby heleneqc

  hello have you the same thing in french? is how to build a bodice … thank you

  1 Reply

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    Aug 28, 2009, 09.40 PMby gedwoods

    I will do a French version – it’s just the text that needs to be adjusted – the hard work is getting the diagrams done. Good idea!

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  Jun 15, 2009, 09.30 AMby nightgigjo

  I sketched this up last night at 1/4 scale and enlarged the copy this morning. It looks like it’ll work nicely! I can’t wait to get a mock-up done!
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  May 11, 2009, 12.16 AMby pinkflamingo84

  Thank you for this “how to”. I am just an avid home sewer, and I bought the textbook that you are basing your instructions on a while ago. I keep having the same problems though, and I was wondering if you could help me? I have relatively broad shoulders, which means that the armhole becomes very narrow. It looks nothing like the book’s diagram, and it just looks wrong! If I measure what I think my shoulders are, they almost overlap on the block. Also, the armscye depth seems too short for me, (i’m about an 80cm bust, but very tall), but as this is a fixed depth in the text book, I’m not sure if i’m ‘allowed’ to change it. It almost needs to be about 2cm more than it says! Does that sound really wrong? I’m so desperate to be able to do this! Any suggestions on how I might fix this?

  1 Reply

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    Aug 28, 2009, 09.37 PMby gedwoods

    Regarding the narrow armhole and the appearance with regard to the presented block – I’ve noticed this on several body types now. Sometimes the block you construct looks very different from the one used to illustrate. Don’t worry about it – the block is right even if it looks wrong!
    
    In terms of making adjustments, such as modifying the armscye depth – everything is “allowed” if it works. I have been gaining experience on how to adjust these blocks for individual body types, but it isn’t always obvious! My suggestion is try things and make muslin shells, until you get it right!
    
    Another tip is to undo a good fitting garment you have and compare the shape of the pieces to the block shape, and then adjust the block shape towards the undone garment. It’s worth tinkering with the block if this is your own, because once you get it right, it becomes “gold” – it can be adapted ad infinitum and (almost) always will preserve a good fit!

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  Apr 7, 2009, 10.22 AMby ChanelGreen

  Thank you so much for making this process to accessible and easy to follow. I really appreciate the time you have taken to do this! i have just spent my afternoon drafting my own bodice block, following every step to the T – ( the only slight problem i had was how to take my own chest measurement – i wasnt sure how far to measure to). But apart from that every step was so straight forward and easy to follow! Again, thank you so so much. ;-D

  Chanel
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  Mar 28, 2009, 05.53 PMby kimbishopp

  Hi!

  I’d sewn only a skirt from a bought pattern before so had no experience drafting patterns… Tonight with some hideous fabric and a couple of zips, I followed your tutorial, constructed the resulting bodice plus section down to my hips. The result was a little bit wide but since you’d explained a few things as you went I realised where I needed to tweak the pattern. I cut the next ‘version’ with an A-line skirt extended from the waist-to-hip lines, and the result is the best fitting dress I’ve ever worn and I’m so proud!! Now I can use the redrafted ‘block’ to base new designs for tops and dresses for as long as I remain this shape!!

  Thank you so much for this tutorial, it really has opened up new creative possibilities!

  a delighted Kim :D

  1 Reply

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    Aug 28, 2009, 09.30 PMby gedwoods

    This is a very late reply to your comment, Kim – I just wanted to highlight the important point you raise… Once you have a block that works, keep it as a template and re-use this as much as you can!

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  Mar 17, 2009, 01.16 PMby divawitch

  Hi

  I’m currently doing a fashion design course at college and use this method to construct basic blocks. It looks like a lot of work but as long as you stick to the instructions and pay attention to detail it is relatively straight forward. And it can be altered in so many ways.

  We also have made a sleeve block, trouser block and dress block.

  So far using this block I have made

  Halter neck top Halter neck waistcoat Boat kneck dress asymetric dress.

  Thank you for posting this, it is fab

  Happy sewing.

  Clare
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  Mar 15, 2009, 02.19 AMby AestheticWaif

  This is an absolutely awesome How To! Now I just need to get my butt in gear and actually make something from it..! Thanks… :)
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  Mar 8, 2009, 02.49 PMby lizzielizard

  This is so cool! Although I have no experience in this what so ever I think I’m going to give it a try. If it goes wrong, then it goes wrong, what’s life without a few failures? :P
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  Mar 2, 2009, 08.50 AMby gedwoods

  Of course you are right, IchiGoGirl, and it’s a good point to make. I usually make a toile before finalizing the fitted garment (and its pattern). I’ve done this on about 10 different body types, however, and have never had to do more than relatively minor adjustments. Over a much wider range of body types, I’m sure there will be issues and a greater need for adjustment, however.
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  Mar 2, 2009, 06.17 AMby Ichigogirl

  I took a pattern-constructing course along with about ten more, where we made our own bodice-blocks using basically this method (it’s great!). Based on that experience, I’d recommend making a toile and testing the pattern before making a cardboard-one. Since our bodies are so very different, it can create weird effects sometimes (it did for most of us actually), that have to be corrected by testing the pattern. Mark what’s weird/wrong on the toile and then transfer it to the pattern, to make it perfect… :-). I do recommend making one though, it’s the best, and there are some great books with instructions on how to change a bodiceblock to different styles (pattern magic )! Great that you posted the how-to :-)!
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  Feb 25, 2009, 02.05 PMby tattooedkitty

  Thank you so much for putting this together, all your hardwork is definitely appreciated! I’m looking forward to creating my block, not just because I’ve been needing some custom patterns for my own use, but also as a way to learn how to create such things. Thanks!
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  Feb 24, 2009, 06.40 AMby anek

  Thanks a lot for uploading this how-to. It’s very useful to see and understand the way patterns are drafted.

  so far I used the sloper pattern uploaded by JJ, because it fits me very well. but I might get in the mood sometime to draft a bodice using my own measurements.
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  Feb 23, 2009, 04.46 PMby gedwoods

  You can finish the garment anyway you like – as a button down or as a closed bodice. Note that you will probably have to shift the bust dart to do a finished garment. I will post another “how to” shortly on the required manipulations to do this, when I have recovered from doing this one! It took me nearly 10 hours to put together this how-to. Essentially, the bodice block is a “root template” that you modify to make a whole range of garments, all in your own custom size. You can even construct dresses from this block – the inclusion of the below waist elements is fairly straightforward.
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  Feb 23, 2009, 07.19 AMby Grinchy

  Wow! It’ll take a while to do, but it’s definitely worth it! Is the finished bodice closed in the front, or what does it look like? I will definitely try this out.
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  Feb 22, 2009, 04.03 PMby MRSJOKER

  I’m sure this works perfectly but too much complicated for me. However since I’m kind of a cut,sew,wear it tonight girl I better stick to already drafted patterns. It looks and reads like you did a lot of work on it and I’m sure that a lot of people will be using your how to for a long time