White Eyelet Frock

Added Aug 2, 2010

by miss-elisabeth

Poulsbo, Washing...

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Views

1003

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Description

I made this dress as a test for another dress I wanted to make later on. (Well, actually, it was an excuse to sew a new summer dress.) It’s Butterick 5029, and overall, it went together very well. I used a muslin (calico for you Brits) lining and a poly cotton blend eyelet fashion fabric.

There was one significant issue in both versions of the pattern (spaghetti strap and halter) – there was about 1" of extra fashion fabric on the side of the bust that was totally unaccounted for in the lining. Originally I thought it was just for gals with extra side fullness but the fullness wasn’t carried through into the lining. It was a frustrating detail that caused me to take apart the dress several times and refit it, even after it was completely finished. However, if you work with it on a dressform and carefully pin it down, it’s a successful and charming pattern. After these images were taken I went in and removed even more fabric out of that side bust area.

One other issue is that with gathered fashion fabric, interlining and lining, the seams are incredibly thick. My original plan for an invisible zipper was scrapped, because the zipper simply couldn’t zip through the thick seams and split under the tension of a tight dress. I ended up going with a vintage metal zipper, which functions much better.

Material Notes

White eyelet, poly/cotton blend, unknown origin | Roclon Muslin lining and interlining | Coats and Clark vintage metal zipper

Difficulty

Intermediate

Categories

Season
Summer
For
Women
Garment Type
Dress
Style
Classic, Vintage
Material
Cotton, Blends, Eyelet

Credits

Butterick 5029

2 Comments Sign in to add a post

  • 1_large

    Aug 2, 2010, 03.05 PMby ashchaser

    I too have had lots of problems with bodice+lining+underlining patterns, at first they seem feasable but by the time you get them all together you’re thinking “should there really be this much fabric in just one place”? I usually end up ditching one of the linings according to fabric weight, but this dress looks BEAUTIFUL

    1 Reply
    • Img_7017_large

      Aug 2, 2010, 04.38 PMby miss-elisabeth

      I’ve drafted this style of bodice almost exactly, using a simple halter base and then expanding it to be very full (ratio of 1 to 4 lining/fabric) and gathered, and I’ve never had this issue before. There was extra fabric vertically and I thought that was rather strange . . . poor drafting job.

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    Aug 2, 2010, 11.17 AMby Adrienne Hendrix

    Very nice dress. I know your frustrations with too much fabric in certain areas. I made a basic tank top and had the same experience and my solution was pleats but I sure would like to find a pattern that I don’t have to adjust everything as I am not that great at sewing. Your dress turned out great. Happy Sewing!!!

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