Spring Green Underbust Corset
Added Jun 8, 2014
Made with Jacci Jaye’s awesome underbust pattern, with minor alterations. First of all, pattern piece #4 is upside-down; the shorter side should be the interior seam. I also ignored the waist lines drawn on the pattern, since they didn’t match up to each other between pieces 1 and 2.
I like the pattern Jacci Jaye made very much, and it fit me with no alterations. Note, however, that the instructions provided with the pattern are best suited for costume corsets, for occasional use. For example, the boning channels in the instructions run from top to bottom, with nothing to stop the boning from sliding up and down and wearing holes in the fabric. That’s fine if you have plastic bones and you don’t intend to lace the corset snug, but if you want a sturdy foundation garment, do as I did and supplement the instructions with other research. I curved my boning channels around the ends of the bones, and flossed over that to stabilize the bones.
Since this was my first corset and I didn’t want to rush, I hand-sewed the entire thing. I used running stitches for the seams, backstitches for the boning channels, hand embroidery for the flossing, and slip stitches for the bias tape binding.
My unbound waist is 27’’. When this corset is fully laced, my waist + corset measures 25.5’’, a 1.5’’ reduction. That’s typical for a light-lace corset.
Canvas inside, cut on the straight. Slubby cotton outside, cut on the straight. Heavy cotton lining, cut on the bias.
Since I can’t afford coutil, I cut the lining on the bias and the rest on the straight so that even if the corset is pulled on the bias for one layer, it’s on the straight for another layer and will not deform. The three layers do make this a heavier garment, for winter wear. It was also perfectly beastly trying to set grommets through all three layers plus the waist tape. However, in the end, it feels sturdy and stands up well to wear!
2 yards of cord. More would have been better.