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Read a Pattern (10295 Views)
Just starting to use patterns? We know some people are hesitant to use patterns, but it’s really quite easy! Everything you need to know is right on the pattern, and once you start, you'll never stop! So now that you’ve got your pattern laid out, learn what all those marks on the pattern mean. The Key to Symbols that comes in every pattern tries its best to explain, but this How To might make it even easier to understand.
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Step 1 of 7
Before getting to ahead of ourselves, be sure to first measure yourself and choose the right size since some pattern markings are specific for sizes, especially darts!
A dart is used to shape a flat piece of fabric to fit bust, waist, hip or elbow curves. Single-point darts are wide at one end and pointed at the other, and shaped darts have a point at both ends and are wide in the middle. The single-point dart is illustrated above. Note that for a bigger size, the dart apex is moved, and the dart intake is greater.
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The shaped-dart, illustrated above, is often used to create shape in the waist, in both front and backs of garments like dresses and coats. Be sure to check the size of the dart you need to use, since it varies as the sizes change.
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The solid black rectangle indicates the start or end of the zipper. This notch is important for lining up pieces to be connected with the zipper.
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Buttonholes are indicated as shown above. The two lines indicate the side of the buttonhole, and the space between will be the width of it. It also indicates if the buttonholes should go vertically or horizontally.
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The front facing of a shirt or jacket can be a totally separate pattern piece or an extension of the center front. If it is an extension of the center front, it is important to know which is the true Center Front line and which is the Facing Fold line. There is also usually a topstitching line that will be indicated, used to keep the facing down. Also be careful to look for FOLD lines on any other pieces. They can be indicated on cuffs, armhole facings, bindings, etc.
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Step 6 of 7
A line like shown above on a pattern indicates a slit where a placket or vent will be inserted. In this case, you cut along the line to the end. It is usually finished with a strip of bias or a placket, like on sleeves and blouses.
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A sleeve pattern also has a lot of important information. There should be at least two notches on the cap of the sleeve. The one at the very top indicates where the sleeve meets the shoulder seam. There will also be a notch in the bottom front of the sleeve cap, which should match up with the front armhole notch when sewing. Occasionally, there are two notches directly next to each other in the back sleeve to indicate that it is the back of the sleeve cap, not the front. These notches are key if you want to make sure you insert the sleeve in the right direction! Once you have learned to read the marks on a pattern, you’re ready to start cutting out your pieces!
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COMMENTS (5)
About the patterns that already contain the seam allowances, like BurdaStyle patterns are (different then Burda WOF magazine patterns that do not have seam allowances included), do the small circles in every corner indicate the exact spot where the fabric pieces overlap and where the seam should be? 10x
Thanks for these beginner tutorials! I have been wondering, what is the best way to mark the important marks onto the fabric?? I've been trying to use a white water soluble pencil, but it is not working very well...Please help!
I have found the colored transfer papers they sell at JoAnnes to be very helpful when transferring the marks, you can even mark two layers of fabric at once! A comment about the tutorial: This is great! I am a beginner though and like Mirela I was wondering about the seam numbers and how they are supposed to work!
here's the link to some tracing paper, (not the one I use though they don't sell it online.)
Thanks, as a "sewbie" this really comes in handy.