I’m making a jersey top and it calls for vilene bias tape/stay tape in the shoulder seams, around the armholes, back neck edge and on the fold of the front facing edges. I know it’s to prevent these areas stretching out of shape but I can’t work out whether the tape needs to have some stretch to it or none at all.

Presumably because it’s called bias tape it is cut on the bias so would have some, but i’ve seen sites which recommend using the selvedge of the fabric you’re making the garment from, but if I use the selvedge of jersey fabric, it will be very stretchy and presumably won’t hold the parts in shape any more than it would if I went without it altogether?

I was thinking I could use ribbon if it’s meant to have no stretch but would that be too bulky? Or is it the same as bias binding tape?

I’ve seen suggestions to use thin fusible interfacing. Presumably if I used that, I would need to cut it on the bias?

I was so hoping to get this top well underway this weekend but looks like I’ll need to be a little more patient and maybe have it done for next week instead :-(

20596winter_20fairy_large

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  • Patti_12-28-2011_large

    Feb 26, 2012, 05.36 PMby patti-r

    They have a product called Seams Great This for a visual maybe called something different in UK: http://www.joann.com/dritz-seams-great-5-8-w-x-10yds/prd10299/?_requestid=84594

    Like you said a fine knit interfacing or tricot that can be cut on bias. IMHO Think ribbon may distort the seams. Clear elastic is sometimes used, but do not stretch it. Others may have more input.

  • 20596winter_20fairy_large

    Feb 26, 2012, 06.00 PMby sewingfan1

    Thanx patti I think you’re right the ribbon will probably be too heavy and distort. I think the link is for hems – i saw on another site someone suggested using it along with normal bias tape as it has adhesive on both sides, so you would lie it on the neckedge (or wherever), then put bias tape on top and iron it in place and then stitch through them all to hold it firmly in place but I’m pretty positive that would end up being too bulky. I think I’m going to have to pop to my sewing shop tomorrow or order it on the internet. According to the sites I’ve been looking at it’s not readily available in the USA and people have been ordering it from the UK instead. It seems to be given the major thumbs up. It says it’s 12mm wide, is very thin and has a line of chain stitching through it 4mm from its edge and you just iron it in place. ( linktext )

  • Patti_12-28-2011_large

    Feb 26, 2012, 06.13 PMby patti-r

    Your Welcome, you are so right it is not easy to find in some areas in USA, it use to come in black, nude and white, now lucky if you find it in white.

    Linktext not working.

    1 Reply
    • 20596winter_20fairy_large

      Feb 26, 2012, 06.59 PMby sewingfan1

      I hate that “link text”, I can never get it to work even when i follow instructions. I know it’s me making a mistake somewhere but haven’t worked out how up to now :-(
      I think on ebay they have it in a couple of colours, nude would be good but I’ve only seen white, black or charcoal so far

  • Bored_polar_bear_large

    Feb 26, 2012, 07.28 PMby 20beverly08

    ‘Seams great’ brand for knit fabrics works really well. I have also made my own stay tape/bias tape from extra fabric left over from the garment, so the color matches. The tricot tape is nice, but hard to find, so I buy tricot interfacing by the yard, and cut it into bias strips, if the knit fabric I am using is too thick to make my own bias tape from it.

    1 Reply
    • 20596winter_20fairy_large

      Feb 26, 2012, 07.43 PMby sewingfan1

      Excellent thanks.

  • Charlie-deeshadows1_large

    Mar 5, 2012, 05.05 AMby smallone

    Hi again sewingfan … I see we are both getting stuck at the same stages with this top….without reading Bevery’s post above I went ahead and cut some lightweight fusible tricot interface on the bias (I do live in the US but a trip to Joannes wasn’t fruitful even though they sell the dritz tape online)….I use a long rule and a roller cutter and cut 5/8" bias strips of the tricot then ironed it on in the places where the pattern calls for stay tape….worked well and easily fit the curves such as the neck edge…but as I’m currently stuck on the back neck facing (per my other post) i cant report how its sewed up yet :)

  • 20596winter_20fairy_large

    Mar 5, 2012, 08.25 AMby sewingfan1

    I think i need to get me a rotary cutter!

    1 Reply
    • Charlie-deeshadows1_large

      Mar 6, 2012, 04.51 AMby smallone

      oh you totally need a rotary cutter….I am late to the rotary cutter thang having use scissors for my whole prior sewing life. One of the best sewing investments (the other is a ham for pressing)

  • Patti_12-28-2011_large

    Mar 5, 2012, 05.06 PMby patti-r

    IMHO think that a back neck facing is needed, rather than the bias strip, it would have laid flatter after under-stitching was done.

  • Lista_for_the_night_large

    Oct 9, 2013, 10.31 AMby Livonet

    Hello I need also help in this subject. I am sewing a stretch dress with long arms. The instructions said: Interfacing, Vilene bias tape/Stay tape. I am so confused. How should I apply interfacing, bias tape and stay tape in this stretchy dress? I understood that Bias tape should be for garment without arms. Stay tape for shoulder and neckline. Please help.-

    1 Reply
    • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

      Oct 9, 2013, 11.03 AMby katexxxxxx

      Where it calls for interfacing, remember to use a stretch one.

      Use EITHER bias tape OR STAY TAPE, not both! The bias will provide stability without interfering too much with the stretch of the fabric. The stay tape will stop all stretch. Which you choose will depend on the results wanted. If it’s along the shoulder line. consider using a light see-through elastic, as use in commercial garments: this provides stability and recovery in the shoulder seam while still allowing it to stretch.

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