Burda Style For people who sew

I’d love to hear your opinions:

I made changes to a salvaged fine knit merino wrap top. The fabric is similar weight to a jersey t-shirt. The hem edge as well as the vertical side edges of the wrap jacket are raw edges now. I quite like the raw edges as they are. But I am not sure whether the knit fabric will unravel / fray later, as it appears to be a looser knit than jersey, which does not fray.

Do the edges of merino knit unravel?

Alternatively, I am wondering about binding the edges with bias binding to secure the edges, but I think the bound edges could be a bit stiff against the really soft merino knit. If I zigzag or overlock the edges I will probably end up with wavy edges. Curly rolled hem edges are okay at the hem, but at the vertical front edges of the wrap top? The neckline has some existing stretch binding on it. If I use binding, it would be normal bias binding, as I don’t know how to get hold of stretchy binding.

What would you do?

Sep 2, 2009, 12.13 PM by buzzybee

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  Sep 2, 2009, 12.49 PMby mickeygirl

  How about just sewing some bias inside just a bit near the raw edge? That will keep the raw edge you like and stabilize the edges from stretching or fraying. You could use soft elastic lace inside as well but you would have to zigzag it on and that would show on the right side of the garment. Sewing anything will show but you could try to match the thread colour well or use something to contrast if your stitching is really really good.

  Stretchy binding does exist. You would find it with the lingerie elastics. It can be fold over elastic but colour are often limited. There is also a sheer tricot binding that is often sold in boxes. (seams great http://www.nancysnotions.com/product/supplies/binding/seams+great+white+5-8+x+10yd.do) Usually it is only available in limited colours. It is very soft.
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  Sep 2, 2009, 01.31 PMby buzzybee

  Thanks mickeygirl. I’ll keep an eye out for the sheer tricot binding. I have seen fold over elastic, but my local shop has indeed only a very limited colour range (I need burgundy). I guess I could make my own stretchy binding out of jersey. Using elastic lace is a good idea too.

  I am still pondering over how to tackle this project. I will post here what I end up doing.
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  Sep 2, 2009, 02.22 PMby buzzybee

  Thinking about it some more, I should probably make my own binding out of jersey and use this technique, shouldn’t I?

  http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/finish-for-jersey-neck-edges-using-twin-needle
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  Sep 3, 2009, 01.48 PMby mickeygirl

  I have also seen binding made from lycra fabric (swimwear fabric). It does not need fray so it can be applied in a single layer just over the edge but you have to use a stretch stitch to put it on.
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  Sep 4, 2009, 04.03 PMby buzzybee

  Doing it in a single layer would certainly reduce the bulk on the edges of that soft merino fabric. I hope if can find the right colour though. I saw a lot of very bright coloured lycra fabrics in my local shop.

  Thanks for your ideas.
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  Sep 5, 2009, 06.58 AMby katexxxxxx

  Whether the fabric ravels or not will depend more on the knit than the fiber content. Test the edges of an off-cut.

  Overlocking the edges need not make it wavy: that will depend on how you adjust the differential feed and thread tension.
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  Sep 5, 2009, 02.41 PMby buzzybee

  Overlocking is still an option, I guess… Thanks KateXXXXXX.