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Patch pockets are usually found on jeans and other garments made of light-weight fabrics. Patch pockets are cut out with an all-around seam allowance, and the allowance for the pocket opening has a wide allowance (FACING), which must be added to the paper sewing pattern piece. For larger-size pockets, a thin fusible interfacing should also be ironed on.
Neaten/finish the pocket pieces all around, baste the allowances on opening edges inwards (plus facing and/or interfacing as necessary). Press edge and topstitch if necessary. Then baste other allowances inwards and press.
For patch pockets with rounded edges, a little trick will help you press the seam allowances under. With large stitches, stitch around the pocket’s curved corners close to the edge. Cut out the finished pocket shape in strong but thin cardboard. Position the cardboard shape on the seam line on the wrong side of the pocket. Pull the lower thread of the stitching until the seam allowances lie flat on the stencil, then equally spread out the gathered extra fabric and press in place.
If the broad facing on the pocket opening is integrated in the pocket piece, then the side edges of the pocket can be faced. To do so, fold the facing outwards and join the edges of the side facing to the pocket piece. Cut off the top corners, turn the opening facing inwards, baste the edges and then continue basting the seam allowances under the rest of the pocket edges, then press in place.
Sewing on pockets:
Pin the finished pocket on the garment, baste in position and slip-stitch on or machine topstitch. So that the openings don’t tear, strengthen them with firm hand-sewing or stitch a small triangle-shape in the corners.
Tip: Large pockets will be firm enough without being too stiff if you back them with Vilene/Pellon (e.g. G 405) or thin batting (e.g. H 630).


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