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A few things to consider:

I have some very strong opinions on invisible zips. Hear me out. If something I say doesn't work for you, throw it out, but if you've had bad luck with these cursed little buggers then listen up! I'm tossing all I was taught about invisible zips out the window and relying on what I know has worked for me. DO NOT press open the invisible zipper (I mean that part right before you sew it in, you know, all those instructions that tell you to open up the zipper and then press the coil open. Don't do it). DO NOT put your iron directly on the coils either. I say these two things for two reasons. Every time I've pressed open the invisible zipper teeth, the coils have been stitched into the fabric and then they rip the fabric and have a hard time zipping up. Every time I've put my iron directly on the teeth coils to press out the wrinkles in the zipper, the zipper has come apart AFTER I stitched it into the garment and while I was wearing it. Yeah, just rips right in the middle of the zipper too. Rips right apart, I tell you! I've done this more times than I care to admit. Don't do it! If you have to press an invisible zipper, only press the tape.

A few more things. Invisible zippers have to be stabilized, in my opinion. They are so likely to warp. By that I mean that they bubble or the bottom jets out and looks really funky. Stabilize the zipper opening with the organza, tricot, or interfacing. Mama said. Also, I mentioned something about a hook and eye. These are not intended to make you tear out your hair sewing them on, though sometimes they do just that. They actually give the zipper strength enough to keep from ripping apart. Hook and Eyes allow the zipper pull to pull up smoothly rather than catching fabric in its wake. Use them.

That's about all I have to say about invisible zips. See what I mean about them being rotten little things? All these rules and for what? A zipper you don't see, that's what! I admit, I do like the way they look. Just be careful. These puppies are not for the faint of heart!

For more on my sewing adventures, visit my blog: http://www.thecupcakegoddess.com.


The Cupcake Goddess

12 Comments Sign in to add a post

  • Missing

    Feb 5, 2011, 01.27 AMby MyssAnthrope

    Thank you for posting such clear instructions! Yours are the easiest to follow directions for this I’ve managed to find.

  • Bellabil_large

    Jan 11, 2011, 07.59 PMby bellab

    Your instructions and pics are clear, think you’ve raised the bar presenting wise! Now I wil try sewing these zips too, thanks again.

  • Leo_pink_large

    Dec 5, 2010, 05.10 PMby SexyKolora

    Thank you for explain how to sew an invisible zipper, with this very good pictures and in an easy way.

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    Oct 18, 2010, 05.41 PMby lavender10

    I loathe anything to do with inserting a zip…it turns out I’m rubbish at it. However, your entirely entertaining tutorial has given me hope so I’ll give it a shot and try not to sew over my hand in the process. Now…any ideas for invisible zippering when there is a lining involved? I’ve never quite got my head around the FOUR pieces of fabric and zip. Sigh. Help greatly appreciated.

  • Missing

    Sep 4, 2010, 04.55 AMby 2beeso

    Thank you for posting this tutorial. I have some patterns that use invisible zippers and will attempt to use this method when I work on them.

  • Dscn1580_large

    Sep 1, 2010, 11.23 PMby angielee

    Yeah! Thank you for this tutorial! I have always had so much trouble with zippers and have been getting better. But these pesky invisible ones…Arg!! I take my time with a garment, only to end up losing my mind at the zipper insertion. I will use this until I get it right!

  • Dscn1801-es_large

    Aug 31, 2010, 05.11 PMby libra-s

    Is it too weird if I say I like invisable zipper? ! I have been sewing many of them but I never used stablizer. I’m going to try that..Thanks Sunni for the tips.

  • N502838397_99324_9707_large

    Aug 31, 2010, 04.39 AMby roarah

    Thanks for all the great tips. Totally agree with your opinions on the invisible zip! I have never understood why many instructions have said to press the zip ‘open’…

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    Aug 30, 2010, 04.34 AMby 5294sandras

    Thank you for the detailed tutorial.

  • 6e3656aa7036783b3e4bbc29f34d1029385afafe_large

    Aug 28, 2010, 03.45 PMby wzrdreams

    Great tips! I totally agree with your opinions. :)

  • Dsc09595avatar_large

    Aug 28, 2010, 06.30 AMby Ralf Schmitz

    this is really a great tutorial and as i allways hated doing zippers (not to talk about inivisible ones!) this will hopefully help me, to get closer to a nice finish! thank you again….

  • Me_pecks_large

    Aug 28, 2010, 02.40 AMby nessys

    Thanks so much for this – I too like the way they look, but always struggle with “Step 7” I hate trying to line up the zip seam with the garment seam. If I marked the zip as per your “Step 3” I am sure (at least I am hoping) it would be easier for me!!

    • This is a question
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