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Now it’s time to start cutting and slashing a little. These next few steps help the lining hang better giving a much more professional result than merely cutting a replica of the skirt pattern for the lining. Since we’re dealing with a rather fitted style, we need just a bit more room for everything at certain points of strain, like the seat and the hips. There are two things that we need to do first to both the Front Lining and the Left & Right Back Lining panels. First, mark the darts and turn them into tucks. There is nothing really special about this alteration, just know that instead of sewing a dart you’ll sew down from the dart legs about 2 inches, creating a tuck instead of a dart. Next you need to widen the hips. Below the seam allowance at the top of the skirt side edge, give yourself a 7 – 9 inch window and with the aid of a hip or french curve, widen the hipline by 1/8″ of an inch. I know, seems like a silly amount, but remember you need to do these first two steps on the Front Lining panel as well. It will give you just a little more ease in your hips so that when you sit down or bend over, the lining doesn’t strain, rip or distort.

OK, now for the part that only deals with the Left & Right Back panels. Since the lining is attached to the skirt at the back vent, there is a tendency, I’ve noticed, for the lining to hike the skirt section up in that area. To facilitate for this and the added strain of sitting down, you’ll need to extend the back sections by 1/4″. To do this, slash the pattern above the vent extension and in the middle of the skirt in a rectangular formation. Slide that section down 1/4″ and tape in place. Be sure to blend the newly formed hemline once finished.


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