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Identifying grade lines of a sleeve pattern. Instead of being parallel to CF or CB, as is the case for the vertical grade lines on bodices and skirt patterns, the vertical grade lines are parallel to the sleeve’s grainline. Horizontal grade lines are perpendicular to the sleeves grain. To grade a pattern means to manipulate an existing pattern at various points in order to make it fit a smaller or larger size. Each pattern piece has several vertical and horizontal lines in areas where the body generally gets bigger or smaller, as the sizes change. For a sleeve, they are illustrated above:

A-B: Center line from top of cap to hem

C-D: Between sleeve seam and Front Armhole notch to hem

E-F: Between sleeve seam and Back Armhole notches to hem

G-H: Halfway between biceps and top of sleeve

I-J: Halfway between biceps and elbow

K-L: Halfway between elbow and hem


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