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Zip Jacket

Added Dec 3, 2013

by PennyMac

Bristol, United ...






My version of Burda Jacket with Front Zipper 09/2011 #102

Love this pattern, it goes together quite easily, although you do need to pay attention to marking and matching the centre fronts or it could all go horribly wrong.
I made some changes – first (and most obviously) I had to change the pattern from Petite to … whatever not-petite should be called (‘normal’ sounds a bit judgmental!). That was pretty easy after I’d searched the web a bit. I just lengthened all the pattern pieces to match the ‘normal’ (sorry) lengths given in the Burda size charts using the horizontal lines on this grading tutorial (http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4368/making-sense-of-pattern-grading/page/all)

Then I had to grade the pattern up a size, using that tutorial again.

Then I had to do a bust adjustment so the jacket would zip up comfortably – if I wanted a jacket I can’t close I would buy ready-to-wear! I have the DVD “Full Busted?: Sew Clothes That Fit! by Marta Alto and Pati Palmer” which I can’t recommend highly enough.

That was a bit of a marathon, and by the time I’d finished the pattern was more sticky tape than tissue!

I also lined the jacket with a rather lovely jaquard satin lining.

I’m really happy with the finished product, I only wish I’d interlined it, because now the cold weather’s setting in I can’t wear it all the time.

One odd thing – I lengthened the sleeves when converting from petite, when I graded up a size and after I’d tried on the muslin, but I still think the sleeves are a bit short.

Material Notes

Outer – cotton/spandex not-quite-velvet, not-quite-cord
Lining Poly/viscose satin




Garment Type

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  • 2013-11-28_10_32_23_large

    Dec 9, 2013, 02.22 PMby PennyMac

    Thank you. It is sort of geeky, but I really enjoy altering patterns.

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    Dec 6, 2013, 03.07 PMby Kovu

    beautiful jacket!! i love the surprise fun lining : ) I can’t believe you did all those pattern alterations!! I always get frustrated, claps to you for sticking with it

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