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VintageModern Design Challenge - Gallenga Cocoon Jacket

Added Mar 2, 2012

by CCCouture

Farmville, North...






My entry for the Vintage Modern Design Challenge was based on Option #3, the Free Vintage e-Pattern – Cropped Jacket.

The cocoon shaped jacket was inspired by 1920’s Italian designer Maria Gallenga. The jacket is made from 100% wool and features an asymmetrical front snap closure with black Ultrasuede piping and machine embroidery that accents the neckline, ¾ length sleeves and center back.

The inspired design and easy fit, is as fresh and exciting today as when it was first created. It can be can worn as an evening jacket over a long slinky gown, casual jacket with dress pants or blue jeans.

Design Notes:
Modifications to the original e-pattern were based on the width of the fabric (58"), which eliminated the need for a back seam.

The original slope of the e-pattern shoulder was not changed, but the jacket was lengthened. From the jacket hem, I drew an open semi-circle to the sleeve to create the cocoon shape.

The key to keeping the jacket easy fitting and comfortable is to make sure the semi-circle of the cocoon allows for a sleeve hem opening of at least 10" on each of the front and back of the sleeve.

I love the details in vintage fashions such as passamenterie, embroidery, piping and couture sewing techniques. The Vintage Modern Design Challenge was a perfect opportunity to explore creative options with some of my favorite techniques.

My Assistant Designer is “Buddy”.

Material Notes

Wool Fabric – Mood Fabrics New York City
Flowers I Embroidery Collection – EmbGallery
Jacket Lining – 100% Polyester
Jacket Underlining – 100% Silk Organza
Hand-Stitched Hair Canvas Interfacing




Spring, Fall, Winter
Garment Type
Casual, Classic, Vintage
Cashmere, Knits/Jersey, Velvet, Wool


Embroidery - Flowers I Collection
Photos - Sew and Sews Fabric Place
Indygo Junction Patterns

13 Comments Sign in to add a post

  • Missing

    Mar 13, 2012, 12.53 AMby nancy2001

    Stunning jacket — a perfect mix of artistic chic!

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    Mar 4, 2012, 11.26 AMby Itsbeensewlong

    Stunning Jacket…. Love the asymmetric shape and how you have featured the embroidery… It does look so cozy and comfortable while still looking really chic! Good Luck with the competition!!! Lou

  • Missing

    Mar 4, 2012, 08.26 AMby hermelina


  • Dscn0604_large

    Mar 4, 2012, 01.54 AMby CCCouture

    Alterations to the original e-pattern were actually based on the width of the fabric (58").

    I created a tissue pattern to extend thejacket length but kept the original shoulder angle slope. From the jacket hem, I cut a semi-circle to the sleeve hem rather than the tight circle of the original.

    The key to keeping the jacket easy fitting and comfortable is to make sure the semi-circle of the cocoon allows for a sleeve hem opening of at least 10" on each of the front and back of the sleeve.

    I hope to make another using a soft velvet that is very similar to the original Maria Gallenga stenciled velvet jacket.

    The cocoon shape is so easy and fun to wear.

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    Mar 3, 2012, 11.54 PMby marthahaskins


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    Mar 3, 2012, 04.21 PMby sala22

    Oh wow this is just gorgeous! What alterations did you make? I would love to make one like this in the summer!

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    Mar 2, 2012, 03.18 PMby libra-s


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    Mar 2, 2012, 01.40 PMby Adriana Orozco

    Greetings from the Rainforest CCCouture!!! Your work is really lovely!!! this jacket is just perfect to wear at any time or ocation, as you describe it. The lovely style is one of those that will stay “on” forever, and the choice of mat erial was perfect for a winter-fall season. Your finishing detail…..embroidery….really adds a special style to it. Good luck and congratulations on a beautifull work!!!

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    Mar 2, 2012, 09.32 AMby Madcinderella

    Lovely, lovely, lovely, makes me think of “Downtown Abbey”, I would buy it in a second! :D

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    Mar 2, 2012, 09.17 AMby joost52

    I’m not a fan of embroidery work, but this is a real nice example of when it’s really great looking!

    1 Reply
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      Mar 2, 2012, 12.38 PMby elguanche

      you are absolutely right! The embroidery fits perfectly!

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    Mar 2, 2012, 06.01 AMby jennyrecorder

    Very chic, love the asymmetry :)

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    Mar 2, 2012, 04.04 AMby runningwithscissors1

    Very nice! It looks great with the machine embroidery.

  • Patti_12-28-2011_large

    Mar 2, 2012, 03.55 AMby patti-r

    It has a very chic look, great job!!!

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