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Something Blue!

Added Aug 30, 2011

by lauramae

Novato, Californ...






Vogue 1209, Rachel Comey design: MISSES’ DRESS: Close-fitting, above mid-knee length, lined dress has front scoop and low back neckline, cap sleeves, front and back gathers underneath tabs, lower front detail seam, back peplum and side invisible zipper.

The instructions are very clear. There are a couple of tricky steps, and top-stitching that will show any mistakes that are made, so I would agree with Vogue’s “Average” difficulty rating. Actually, this was a surprisingly quick dress to sew.

I was not pleased when I opened this pattern and realized that there are no finished garment measurements given at all! I did a quick check with a measuring tape and figured my standard size 12 should be okay. There are also no indication lines given for lengthening or shortening this garment (the bottom hem says to shorten or lengthen at that point).

I am not sure if it was my lightweight fabric choice, but the double-layered tabs on the front and back want to droop down at the center which is not the most flattering thing for a garment to do. Oh well, it is still wearable.

I appreciate that the front lining (which is cut as one flat piece cut on the fold, no gathering necessary) of this garment acts as a bit of a facing for the gathered and loose bodice bust area. I also love that the dress is lined, but uses french seams in quite a few places. Do keep in mind, however, that if you use a thicker fabric, this will not work.

The biggest change I made was to add 5" to the length of this dress, and boy, am I glad that I did. This thing it SHORT as it is drafted! If you plan on adding length to this, remember to add to the front bodice piece at the butterfly-like extensions.

I also changed the back of the dress so I could wear a standard bra. To do this, I measured three inches up from the top of the center back bodice and created a new line with pretty much the same curve as the original piece. I also had to extend the back tab piece as well as the back facing by three inches. In retrospect, I probably should have raised the back bodice by more than the tab to keep more of the gathering for the back pieces, but I am happy with how it came out.

And as a finishing touch, I added lingerie guards to the shoulder seams because the neck wanted to fall off my shoulders.

I am in love with the silk/cotton blend that I used for this garment. It is super soft and extremely lightweight which was great for the bodice portions and tabs of this dress. However, the front bodice extensions that become a part of the skirt are cut on the bias and pull a bit – I think that a heavier fabric would have helped this.

Instead of top-stitching a narrow hem, I hand-rolled both the peplum and bottom edge hem.

And I also prick-stitched my zipper by hand. And I also prick-stitched my zipper by hand. The directions would have you stitch the side seam closed, leaving only enough space open for the zipper. This has always made it difficult for me to insert invisible zippers, so I leave the entire side seam undone while inserting my zipper (by hand, or machine if you prefer) and only then do I close up above and below the zipper opening.

Although the dress did not come out exactly as I imagined, I am pleased with the final result, and it was well received at the bridal shower that I helped organize for my boss. Please stop by my new blog to see more!

Material Notes

*Cotton/Silk floral jacquard *Bemberg rayon for lining *Rayon satin for back skirt lining (ran out of my bemberg remnants) *Hug Snug rayon seam binding




Spring, Summer
Garment Type

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