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shirt with blue dots

Added Feb 17, 2012

by martinK

Rotterdam, Neth...






It’s a variation on my selfdrawn pattern. To emphazise the collar and cuffs I added two different blue colloured biasbands

Material Notes





Garment Type

8 Comments Sign in to add a post

  • Af862e1295140cf94db964c27e3e6fd33ac3e39f_large

    Feb 22, 2012, 07.49 PMby stvn

    Great shirt, I really like the bias-band details. They give it a very ‘strak’ look, which goes well with the pattern. Absolutely gorgeous.

    1 Reply
    • Img_5432_large

      Mar 13, 2012, 08.29 PMby martinK

      thank you, the bias-band was a spontainious idea and it came out very well. This shirt costed me less than 5 euro.

  • Sam_0020_large

    Feb 17, 2012, 11.15 PMby wardrobe-cat

    Sublime. I have some trouble with curved edges too. Maybe you could try a skirt hemming technique to get the deeply curved hem. Don’t know if you’ve come across it, but if you haven’t…. Run a line of basting along the curve, pull up gently, press (very carefully), stitch. Oh! I just realised! It’s the same as making a curved edged pocket. What an idiot I’ve been! Also, I find, if you hunt out vintage patterns and instructions, there are techniques etc that are exceptionally good and may be just what you’re after. I’ve no idea, or any suggestions for you, on the shirt-to-sleeve problem. Hmm… This is quite a cunundrum. Will take some thinking… You’ve done a very nice job with this one. Colour combination, cut, all that stuff. :) Looking forward to more of your amazing work.

    2 Replies
    • Img_5432_large

      Feb 18, 2012, 09.22 AMby martinK

      thanks for the compliments and suggestions! :-)

    • Sam_0020_large

      Feb 18, 2012, 01.39 PMby wardrobe-cat

      No problem :)
      Will enjoy seeing what you come up with next.

  • Pojedyncze_29_09_2012_o_18_39_2_large

    Feb 17, 2012, 07.47 PMby Bartas DubLinski

    WOW! So many details! I’m delighted. If I move to Holland I hope to see your clothes personally ;-)

    1 Reply
    • Img_5432_large

      Feb 17, 2012, 08.18 PMby martinK

      thank you for the wow :-)

  • 310320122353_large

    Feb 17, 2012, 07.45 PMby elguanche

    Martin!!!!!!!!!! That is absolutely great! The hem is not my gusto but that rest…. I loooooove it!

    Would love to see, how the sleevehead fits on you… I have major problems by getting myself a nice shirt draft. The torso does not make any problem but always the sleeve. I have now soluted the problem by drafting a jacket sleeve. That makes a real nice optic but it is not that easy by ironing it. So maybe you could send or post here some fotos on which I can see, how the sleevehead came out on your teachers system.

    So long Basti

    2 Replies
    • Img_5432_large

      Feb 17, 2012, 08.18 PMby martinK

      thank you Basti, I get blushed. I choose for the bias band for the hem because I have problems with it at the curves on the side. The last one I have locked and ironed and than sewed but it’s not perfect. Have a look in my atelier for the sleevehead. The shirt with the asymetric collar has the same pattern. I will have a look at the explanation of the pattern and let you know.

    • 310320122353_large

      Feb 17, 2012, 08.49 PMby elguanche

      No need of getting blushed!!! ;) The hem looks like you wanted to do it this way. It looks good, it is just not my style. But this does’nt matter! It is important that you like it! If you have problems by stitching the curve, you have to draft the curve more slightly. Look into Müller&Sohn’s book. There they write about that issue. Maybe it is not that you are’nt able, maybe the curve is just too strong. Than it results impossible to hem it nicely.

      I looked at the sleevehead. No… the same issue like on mines. Have to think it over again. The problem is, that you and I are drafting a very slim Shirtpattern. So the sleevesystem does not fit for this torso. So the “Kugel” is always to deep and does not corresponce on a slim shirt.

      just wanted to mention, that you have to add some length into the frontpattern. As you can see on vertical wrinkles on the other fotos. The front is to short and pulls up into the directions of your neck. I think, or maybe ask your teacher, to measure out the right balance and transform it into your shirt pattern. The shoulder seam is not right, here you can easily add the lenght or around the chestline.k Sorry, don’t want to criticize you!!!! Please don’t be bad with me!!!! Just for reasons of searching the “Perfection” :-)

      So long

  • Avatar_large

    Feb 17, 2012, 07.21 PMby apfelbluete

    ich habe bei der deutschen burda gelesen, du nähst erst seit 2006.. dafür ist das ausgezeichnete arbeit!! ich bin eine perfektionistin und detailfanatikerin-solche arbeit schätze ich sehr hoch:-)

    2 Replies
    • Img_5432_large

      Feb 17, 2012, 07.28 PMby martinK

      Vielen Dank! Ich habe auch einen Hang zur Perfektion.

    • Avatar_large

      Feb 17, 2012, 07.32 PMby apfelbluete

      das bringt uns einerseits vorwärts und andererseits hinderts…zumindest bei mir so.ich stehe meinem eigenen glück oft im wege,weil ich selten mit meiner leistung zufrieden bin.perfektion ist ewtas wie fantom…
      um eine perfekte passform der hose zu erreichen, habe ich ca.50 anproben gemacht…

  • 5196510037_0646d0f80e_o_large

    Feb 17, 2012, 07.02 PMby kelepso

    I love the details of the bias bands. It’s really sharp! Great fabric pattern too! Very clean construction.

    1 Reply
    • Img_5432_large

      Feb 17, 2012, 07.27 PMby martinK

      thank you very much!

  • 555601_501658813193233_862358384_n_1__large

    Feb 17, 2012, 05.23 PMby joost52

    My god that’s nice work. What method did you use to draw this pattern? I’d like to start making shirts but I need to have a good pattern first. This is really very pretty, I love the details and the finish is just spectacular. It looks so clean, great job :)

    3 Replies
    • Img_5432_large

      Feb 17, 2012, 06.51 PMby martinK

      Thank you Joost very much for your enthousiasm about my work. This pattern I developes with my teacher. I have two other descriptions how to make a shirt patter, one in Dutch and one in Gernan. I can send you a copy if you want. But than you still have a problem: you need a person who knows how to get the right mesurement of your body. That’s essential.

    • Af862e1295140cf94db964c27e3e6fd33ac3e39f_large

      Feb 22, 2012, 07.52 PMby stvn

      To draw my first (and only so far) shirt pattern I took an existing shirt which fitted perfectly and draw the pattern from it. I used David Coffin’s shirt making book for tips ’n tricks on both copying existing shirts and doing the tricky bits like cuffs and sleeve-body seems.

    • 555601_501658813193233_862358384_n_1__large

      Feb 22, 2012, 07.56 PMby joost52

      I don’t like all this drafting, so I’m working on a pattern-drafting machine for the moment. When it’s useable, I will need some people to test it ;)

  • Patti_12-28-2011_large

    Feb 17, 2012, 04.53 PMby patti-r

    Martin, It looks fabulous!!! Great fabric and details, so beautifully sewn!! Patti

    1 Reply
    • Img_5432_large

      Feb 17, 2012, 06.46 PMby martinK

      thank you Patti, for your kind words! You know I try to reach " perfection" :-)

    • This is a question
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