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Rise Above This

Added Jan 22, 2012

by Anne Wagenha...

Warwickshire, Un...






So many factors have conspired against me on this project, not the least – timing! The drive to make the fabric up collided with a brick wall of curtains, cushions and Xmas outfits for people other than immediate family! This meant I couldn’t put them off. So I finally got the chance (after Xmas) to get cracking, luckily all the fiddling witht he toiles had been done before the mad rush.

I had bought this grey wool with a small burgandy fleck on an impulse in the Autumn. I promised that I would get the jacket done this season, and made myself control my urge to purchase what was remaining on the roll, instead of exactly 1.5m. Of course I had no pattern in mind, I just had to have the wool! So, the pattern. It is a self drafted jacket, with simple details and no pockets. There was just not enough to do that. It was getting too simple though, so I thought I’d play with the sleeves. I had a burst of inspiration from the Elizabethan era, the way they have slashes to reveal a contrast fabric below. So I made a pleat down the centre of the sleeve (had to switch to a one-piece sleeve) and cut a contrast pleat back. Originally this was going to be burgandy, and I had thought of a velvet.. But it proved impossible to find the right colour within my time-scale, so I reverted to some plain black wool I had hiding in the cupboard. The pleat edges were hand sewn together at 8cm intervals so when there is movement in the arm the pleat opens and reveals the back below. The buttons are the remnants of a charity shop splurg earlier in the season. I lined the jacket with a suit lining from the Fancy Silk store in Birmingham, the perfect colour to match the burgandy flecks.

I am pretty happy with the jacket, the tailoring went smoothly, the wool handled beautifully and I had no issues with the pattern at all. I might make the next one either 5cm longer, or 5 cm shorter… just to see.

I have started to put the construction information on my blog and will complete it this week, if you’d like to see the insides of this jacket.

Material Notes

Wool shell and cupro lining




Fall, Winter
Garment Type

14 Comments Sign in to add a post

  • 1_copy_large

    Feb 20, 2012, 01.05 PMby dottty

    Ya jacket is lovely, and yea i love the detail you put into the sleeves, i must remember that one jj:)x

    1 Reply
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      Dec 21, 2012, 04.09 PMby Anne Wagenhauser

      Thanks, it’s a really simple, but effective detail!

  • Randy1_large

    Feb 17, 2012, 05.42 AMby mrpm1974

    Lovely – love the sleeves too!

    1 Reply
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    Feb 17, 2012, 12.23 AMby servareginae

    Beautiful! Lovely fabric, expert construction, creative touch with the sleeves. One day, I’d like to be able to make a jacket this well.

    1 Reply
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      Feb 17, 2012, 11.29 PMby Anne Wagenhauser

      Thank you, I guess practice makes perfect! :)

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    Feb 16, 2012, 05.47 PMby Swirlz1

    Ann, you did a awesome job on this jacket, and yes the sleeves are amazing!!!

    1 Reply
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    Feb 15, 2012, 10.21 PMby corinneski

    Love those sleeves! Actually the whole jacket is just gorgeous. I want one so I guess my sewing list has just grown another item.

    1 Reply
    • Avatar_1_large

      Feb 16, 2012, 07.50 PMby Anne Wagenhauser

      Thanks very much! My list grows daily, I will never catch up!

  • Missing

    Feb 15, 2012, 06.56 PMby Christianne DeHart

    The sleeves! I am wanting to sew more and more simple lines, but then always have a surprise somewhere. Its the surprise that sets it one step above. Nice surprise on the sleeves!

    1 Reply
    • Avatar_1_large

      Feb 16, 2012, 07.50 PMby Anne Wagenhauser

      Thanks Christianne, it was gettting a bit too plain, no pockets, no detail, so the sleeves had to do something! Next time I buy more fabric!

  • Missing

    Feb 15, 2012, 05.28 PMby faith

    wonderful !!!

  • Button_s_large

    Feb 15, 2012, 05.11 PMby lmb

    Beautiful work! The sleeve detail is wonderful. I hope you are wearing it with lots of pride. It’s very inspirational.

    1 Reply
  • Glo_copy_large

    Jan 25, 2012, 05.01 PMby domestic-divaonline

    Love the wool fabric. Really good wool is a dream to work with. Nice job!

    1 Reply
    • Avatar_1_large

      Feb 16, 2012, 07.49 PMby Anne Wagenhauser

      Thank you, it is English wool, I knew I should have got more!

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    Jan 24, 2012, 02.26 AMby carolyn-s

    This is gorgeous! Those sleeves are so interesting. Self-drafted? Respect! You’ve done a magnificent job!

    1 Reply
    • Avatar_1_large

      Jan 24, 2012, 09.34 AMby Anne Wagenhauser

      Thanks, coming from you, I take that as a massive compliment!! Love all your stuff.

  • Img_3918_large

    Jan 23, 2012, 10.44 AMby chula123

    Fantastic fit ! This material is really nice, thanks to the close up I could finally see the little burgundy flecks you mentioned. Great job and those sleeves are fab !

    1 Reply
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    Jan 23, 2012, 07.25 AMby Ralf Schmitz

    the sleeves look so so great! i love this jacket! fantastic!

    1 Reply
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      Jan 23, 2012, 12.02 PMby Anne Wagenhauser

      Thank you! It would have been a pretty plain jacket without those sleeves!

  • Burda_023_large

    Jan 23, 2012, 02.44 AMby runningwithscissors1

    Great job!I do love the slashes on the sleeves.

    1 Reply
  • Me1_large

    Jan 22, 2012, 09.30 PMby fashionfreek

    Looks great AW..you done a great job with those sleeves. Looks like a good fit on you.Suits you well. Well done :-D

    1 Reply
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