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Pounamu Blouse - Vogue 1170

Added Apr 14, 2010

by dare

London, United K...






This is my “First day at work!” top. It’s Vogue 1170 done in slippery slinky shifty jade green silk. Probably the most challenging piece I’ve done so far. I love the shoulder ties and the sectioned, button-up back. Plus the new job is going good to so there isn’t much to complain about.

Pounamu is the Maori name for New Zealand Greenstone (jade).

Because the fabric shifts and because it was so light it was very difficult to get it through my machine with pins and get good seams (all of which were tiny French seams). Instead I hand basted all the seams first (getting the tensions correct was fun!), put it through the machine and then pulled all the bastes out. This shirt taught me levels of patience I’ve never had before.

The pattern was rather weird looking, especially at that front knot, so I didn’t do any pattern adjustment to begin with. I cut a size 10, even though the pattern called for a size 12, because it was supposed to be ‘very loose’. However the 10 was still a slightly odd fit. It hung huge around my waist but is close to tight around my arms. I omitted the gathers under the arm partly due to the fit and partly because for some reason my stitching failed to hold the gathers in (despite about 5 attempts). In the end I brought in the side seams a bit to get a nicer fit. If you were to attempt this pattern I would recommend checking the waist in the back, because it seems like more could come out of the back pieces then the front. Other changes you might consider are adjusting that knot position so you don’t get as much keyhole-cleavage. It’s just on the line for work appropriateness, on my scale.

I am keen to do this project again, but adjusting the waist, the knot and also the peak of the ties on the shoulder. I think they are good low with a soft flowy fabric like this silk, but should be higher up on anything with a bit more body.

Material Notes

Silk (grrr silk)




Garment Type
Business, Casual, Classic, Evening Wear

5 Comments Sign in to add a post

  • Owlman_full_size_large

    Apr 18, 2010, 05.59 PMby naughtylittlepony


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    Apr 14, 2010, 04.44 PMby d3liriums4m4

    This is lovely!

    A tip to making slippery fabrics more easy to work with: sew with paper between your fabric and your feed dogs. You’ll have to pull the paper out, but it’s pretty easy since the needle perforates it for you. I use this trick with slinky silks, and with knits, and just with delicate fabrics in general.

    1 Reply
    • 67f2c04548980ff46226d7497d8692937bd29f9b_large

      Apr 16, 2010, 02.46 PMby dare

      Thanks for the compliment!

      You’re right about using the paper – it helps quite a bit!

      I did try this with (toilet) paper when failing at the gathers under the arms. It worked really well for getting the gathers through the machine nicely.

      I cut the pattern with a paper layer too, to get the right tensions.

  • 243e706940e9ec6ee5590c8d3bfdfce316b1ac98_large

    Apr 14, 2010, 03.35 PMby amibambini

    It is so elegant, well done. Welcome to being the new office knock-out!

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    Apr 14, 2010, 02.35 PMby ghainskom

    A very distinctive designe from Rachel Comey I recognize straight away. I’ve read revies on this patterns and have to say, kudo for mastering it!

  • Img_3850-001_large

    Apr 14, 2010, 01.49 PMby gabcorb

    This looks like it must have been very fiddly, but it has turned out beautifully – I love it!

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