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My tailored trench coat

Added Sep 25, 2017

by Kuriton

Espoo, Finland






I started with McCall’s #5525 and used it as a basis to draft myself a trench coat that I dreamed of.

I wrote a whole series of blog posts on all the alterations and modifications I made, but I try to summarize: I took in from two different positions at the back and from the front princess seams. I made the storm flap longer and the gun flap smaller. I widened the hem to add some extra flare to the coat and lifted the waist a bit. Oh, and made a sort of hollow chest adjustment to the front piece that kept on gaping. I also replaced the sleeves with a two-part sleeve from another coat pattern that I modified to fit the coat.

Furthermore, I added the all the complicated interfacings and hand-sewed couture hems. I added faux leather piping to the edges and gray cotton piping between the checked cotton lining and the facing. I also made a inner breast pocket and decorated the inside of the coat with hand-embroidered monogram. I lengthened the belts and added buckles and eyelets. I redesigned the pockets and made them into double welt pockets with flaps. I hid a keyring and a smaller inner pocket inside one of the big pockets to have place for both my keys and my travel card (for busses and trains).

Material Notes

I used cotton-polyester gabardine, cotton check lining, viscose(?) satin lining for the sleeves and polyester lining for the flaps and the pockets. I also used a huge amount of different interfacings to make a properly tailored coat with all the bells and whistles.




Spring, Fall, Winter
Garment Type
Business, Classic, Military
Coating, Cotton, Blends, Wool

8 Comments Sign in to add a post

  • 03003e1f_2_large

    Oct 24, 2017, 09.00 AMby sewing fanatic

    stunning stitching!

    1 Reply
    • Siteicon_large

      Oct 24, 2017, 07.02 PMby Kuriton


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    Sep 28, 2017, 07.53 PMby Maria Hayek

    The coat looks great! Well done!

    1 Reply
    • Siteicon_large

      Sep 29, 2017, 08.04 AMby Kuriton

      Thank you!

  • Img_9194_large

    Sep 27, 2017, 09.47 PMby kihli

    Simply stunning! What an awesome coat!

    1 Reply
    • Siteicon_large

      Sep 28, 2017, 03.11 PMby Kuriton


  • Img_0963_large

    Sep 26, 2017, 08.45 PMby TeenyUK

    You’ve done a really professional job on this. The detailing and fit are just fabulous!

    1 Reply
    • Siteicon_large

      Sep 27, 2017, 11.18 AMby Kuriton

      Thank you!

  • Burda-style-wf-sq_large

    Sep 26, 2017, 01.53 PMby JillSeams

    Wow! Looks great!

    1 Reply
    • Siteicon_large

      Sep 26, 2017, 05.03 PMby Kuriton


  • Avatar_large

    Sep 26, 2017, 01.30 PMby SurMesure

    Very nice and practical coat! You look fantastic! And you gave so much thought about all the features you added to this coat!

    1 Reply
    • Siteicon_large

      Sep 26, 2017, 05.03 PMby Kuriton

      Thank you! I had a clear picture I wanted and I think that all the work paid off and I got the coat I was imagining.

  • Img_3918_large

    Sep 26, 2017, 06.21 AMby chula123

    Ofantastic!!!! Love the inside too!!

    1 Reply
    • Siteicon_large

      Sep 26, 2017, 07.31 AMby Kuriton

      Thank you! I like it, too! I even designed my own monogram to decorate it!

  • Dscf2008_large

    Sep 26, 2017, 06.18 AMby sarahsdaughter

    Fabulous !!! So smart and excellent fit.

    1 Reply
    • Siteicon_large

      Sep 26, 2017, 07.31 AMby Kuriton

      Thank you so much!

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