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My Little Gray Dress

Added Oct 2, 2017

by Angie H

Stone Mountain, ...






The Gray Knit Ponte that I used for this version of McCalls 6886 was purchased in a small NYC fabric shop. I only purchased 2.5 yards so, I have been holding on to it for the past 2 years waiting for the right project.

I wanted a simple dress with a voluminous statement sleeve but with my limited yardage I didn’t have enough fabric to make what I had in mind.

So I decided that instead of making a set in sleeve, I would make the dress sleeveless and add a Statement Sleeve overlay at the shoulder right above the top of the arm opening.
I love how it turned out.

The sleeves were draped on my dress form using two folded squares. Adding my process just in case anyone is interested.

How I Created My Sleeves Overlays

  • Disclaimer: This design was an idea in my head that I hadn’t seen anywhere else…. So there were no written instructions for me to follow. When designing these, I was inspired by the idea of an Epaulette. Because they are not full sleeves, I call them overlays. I am not sure that this is the easiest or most efficient way to create these, but it is the way that I did it. Hopefully these instructions will be helpful and easy to follow.

1)I serged the armscye and turned them to the inside once to form a narrow hem.

2)Afterwards, I placed the dress on my dress form.

3)The sleeve overlays are made of two large squares. Using my rotary cutter I cut the two squares approximately 25" X 25".

4)I folded each square in half to form a rectangle. I then placed one layered rectangle above each shoulder, open sides facing outward.

5)I found the center of my folded rectangle and lined it up with the shoulder seam.

6)Once I got the center of each rectangle lined up with the shoulder seam, I shifted each rectangle towards the back of the dress allowing approximately 1/3 of the total length ( 8 – 9 inches) to hang towards the front of the dress and 2/3 to hang towards the back of the dress.

7)Once the overlays were placed exactly where I wanted them, I pinned them to the dress form to keep them in place. The pins are placed on the inside layer of the folded rectangle only.

8)I wanted the seam that I used to attach the overlay to the shoulder to mimic a shoulder seam so I cut 3/8" wide braided elastic the length that I wanted my seam to be. I placed it on top of the bottom layer of the rectangle exactly where I wanted the seam to start and end. I horizontally pinned through the elastic, the inside layer of the rectangle and the finished armscye making sure that the edge of the elastic and edge of the armscye were perfectly lined up.

9)Once the elastic strips and overlays were pinned to the armscye, I removed the pins that I used to pin the overlays to the dress form.

10)Afterwards, I removed the dress from the dress form and headed to my sewing machine. I stitched the inside layer of the rectangle down to the shoulder of the dress using the elastic as a seam guide. I stitched right next to the elastic … not through it. Once I was done with the stitching, I removed the elastic.

Material Notes

Ponte Knit




Garment Type

9 Comments Sign in to add a post

  • Img1401055272558_large

    Mar 22, 2018, 10.30 AMby SassyT

    Lovely. To be shared on SSB tomorrow. Thanks for permitting. https://www.facebook.com/SassySewingBees

  • Simba_nov_06_large

    Oct 28, 2017, 07.39 AMby nrobson

    cool fashioning of this piece!

  • Profil1_large

    Oct 7, 2017, 06.29 PMby Elpida Kyriakou

    Beautiful dress and great styling!

    1 Reply
    • Dsc_2782_large

      Oct 19, 2017, 11.34 PMby Angie H

      Thank you so much! :)

  • 20170310_191639_large

    Oct 4, 2017, 08.35 AMby Mary Athey

    I love the sleeves on this dress and would love to know how you set them in? The dress looks fabulous on you x

    1 Reply
    • Dsc_2782_large

      Oct 4, 2017, 05.12 PMby Angie H

      Thank You Mary. I actually draped a large folded square on my dressform to acheive this sleeve treatment. I will post my process up top later today.

  • 11865051_10153538248612387_1057386715620973186_o_large

    Oct 3, 2017, 10.44 AMby Beccki

    Absolutely fabulous! you look amazing in this dress.

    1 Reply
    • Dsc_2782_large

      Oct 4, 2017, 05.13 PMby Angie H

      Thank you so much.

  • Img_3918_large

    Oct 2, 2017, 01.42 PMby chula123

    So clever, love those sleeves!!

    1 Reply
    • Dsc_2782_large

      Oct 4, 2017, 05.14 PMby Angie H

      Thank You.

  • Photo_on_3-2-17_at_6_09_pm_2_large

    Oct 2, 2017, 09.35 AMby tessi

    Love it!

    1 Reply
    • Dsc_2782_large

      Oct 4, 2017, 05.14 PMby Angie H

      Thank You :).

  • 309294_10151565551899428_1522575202_n_large

    Oct 2, 2017, 08.39 AMby omgdora

    Beautiful sleeves! Good job!

    1 Reply
    • Dsc_2782_large

      Oct 4, 2017, 05.14 PMby Angie H

      Thank You. :)

  • Dscf2008_large

    Oct 2, 2017, 07.26 AMby sarahsdaughter

    Love your Little Gray Dress and the sleeves really set it off :)

    1 Reply
    • Dsc_2782_large

      Oct 4, 2017, 05.15 PMby Angie H

      Thank You. :)

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