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Hand Appliquéd Cotton

Added Apr 21, 2015

by lauramae

Novato, Californ...






I could not resist this design. Love it! My initial plan was to make the longer length coat out of a thick wool that I have been hoarding for a few years. I dutifully made up a muslin which ended up too small for a wool coat (not sure how many layers I would manage to get under the finished garment) and do I really need another winter weight coat that is wide open at the neck? Not really. So I threw the muslin aside. I was also frustrated with the fit of the two-piece sleeves. I generally love them, but something felt off with these.

But a few months later, I knew exactly what to do with that muslin! I eliminated the wide seam allowances and made myself a cotton jersey version to match my Alabama Chanin hand appliqued skirt.

My muslin turned out to be the perfect fit for a Spring/Summer weight jacket made from cotton!

The only major alteration was swapping out the two-piece sleeves for a one piece sleeve from this dress. The tailored two-piece sleeve just seemed too fussy for the hand applique.

My biggest challenge was making the shawl collar work with the applique. Normally, a facing is used so that when the collar is folded back, the self-fabric shows. In my case, if I folded back the collar, the green “wrong” side/layer of the piece would show. I did not want that kind of contrast, so I added a small triangle of fabric, marked my design on that piece, and worked that small section of collar from the “wrong” side of the piece. That means that I was stitching through three layers instead of two, but it ended up working just fine.

Instead of buttons, I used crochet covered snaps to secure the jacket. I thought about adding a belt made from a single length of the blue jersey, but in the end, I didn’t think the piece needed it.

I began this journey at the end of last year after being temped by the Alabama Chanin aesthetic for years. All that hand sewing was exactly what I needed! And now that I have finished this project, I can’t wait to start another!

More pictures of the finished garment may be found on my blog, Lilacs & Lace.

Material Notes

*Stencil – I made my own using craft interfacing
*Sharpie for transferring stencil design on fabric
*Cotton jersey from Dharma Trading (I dyed it myself – best dye result I have ever achieved! – which probably has more to do with the Fiber Reactive dyes than anything else)
*Coats & Clark Dual Duty Plus Jeans Topstitching thread – I used a LOT of this stuff!
*Snaps (I covered them with a bit of crochet work using my topstitching thread.




Spring, Summer, Fall
Garment Type

5 Comments Sign in to add a post

  • Dscn1801-es_large

    May 13, 2015, 12.53 PMby libra-s

    Amazing outfit!!!

  • Tim-walker2_large

    Apr 23, 2015, 12.08 PMby PlandaFlowers

    this is just amazing!

  • Img_5432_large

    Apr 21, 2015, 09.12 PMby martinK

    wonderful work of sewing!!!

  • Profil1_large

    Apr 21, 2015, 09.19 AMby Elpida Kyriakou

    It’s a masterpiece!

  • Rita_for_burdastyle_photo_large

    Apr 21, 2015, 06.25 AMby rita61

    Your outfit looks lovely on you! My fingers ache just reading about all that hand sewing !

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