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Donegal Tweed Hikaru

Added Sep 26, 2009

by wzrdreams

Brooklyn, New Yo...






After 2 muslins (size 44, and 42), and bunch of obsessive pattern alterations and solicitation of advice from my tech team, I ended up going with the size 44, with no alterations. Why? Because as cute as this is when it fits snug (42) I want to wear this over sweaters come fall/winter…. and the size 44 will allow that. I could have added a CB seam to the peplum and shaved it in the CB and side seams, but I decided to just go with it. If I make it again (and with this much practice with the pattern I might as well) I will go with a smoother suiting material (but still probably wool) and make the 42.

The only real alteration I made was using lining for the collar stand facing. I should have used it for the back neck facing as well, this donegal tweed is ITCHY! But I’ll won’t be wearing it over tank tops so it’s fine. My neck is grateful for the lining though.

One of the sewers at work showed me how to shorten the metal separating zipper. It involved an awl, a rubber mallet, pliers, scissors, and had nothing to do with bar-tacking with a sewing machine. I hope to do a how to someday, because that was darn useful information.

Oh, I didn’t like the shape of the epaulette pattern piece. It doesn’t make a symmetrical piece. If I do this jacket again I will correct that.

ETA: And I thought the instructions for the bottom hem and the front facing seams where way vague. I followed some instructions from Threads Magazine (online) for bagging the lining, but I should note here that you should NOT sew the facing to the front without stopping for the facing seam allowance. The picture in the instructions would indicate other wise.

Material Notes

100% New Wool, Scottish Donegal Tween (Marc Jacobs remnant from waaaay back in like 2004),
100% Rayon twill lining – NY Elegant Fabric, 10 awesome buttons from M&J Trim, black thread (top stitch), brown thread (button holes), black metal separating zipper, black shoulder pads, black fusible interfacing




Garment Type
Grunge, Military
Coating, Rayon, Wool



15 Comments Sign in to add a post

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    Sep 29, 2009, 06.19 AMby superjennylove

    so incredible! i love it love it love it!

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    Sep 28, 2009, 10.32 AMby anajan

    Love it! I waited for you to show us the pictures, and I can tell you – you did an amazing job! It is neat, nicely finished, and I love the fabric you used. And, your button holes are perfectly sewed. Bravo! I should give it a go ASAP!

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    Sep 28, 2009, 03.58 AMby thecuriouskiwi

    The lining colour is just perfect. How fun was our impromptu sew-along? Thanks for keeping in touch we should be very pleased with ourselves :) xx

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    Sep 26, 2009, 07.15 PMby elainemay

    gorgeous!!! i’ve been looking forward to seeing pictures of your hikaru :) the fabric is perfect and so is the workmanship. and the sizing looks great on you too. i had to shorten my zipper too, but I only used pliers- sort of a brute force job :) congrats on another amazing project!

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    Sep 26, 2009, 03.07 PMby jeffrey

    this jacket blows me away, it’s perfect, the details… it’s dumbfounding how precise you are.

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    Sep 26, 2009, 02.14 PMby sewneenee

    great jacket, what an inspiration!!

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    Sep 26, 2009, 12.16 PMby emlj

    absolutely fantastic!

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    Sep 26, 2009, 08.42 AMby victors

    I’ve also been following your posts and have been looking forward to seeing the result and its beautiful! Lovely jacket ;)

  • 4343a36d4466c6f353525bdc97ba571be3128723_large

    Sep 26, 2009, 08.35 AMby thecuriouskiwi

    Beautiful. I love the fabric so much, I’m glad you showed us a close up of the colours, great choice. Your buttons are perfect too, it looks like all your clever planning was well worth it, hope you are as happy with it as I believe you should be, it’s a great jacket! :) xx

    1 Reply
    • 6e3656aa7036783b3e4bbc29f34d1029385afafe_large

      Sep 26, 2009, 02.23 PMby wzrdreams

      Thank you! And thank you for sewing along with me. Your Hikaru is stunning. :)

  • Avatar_large

    Sep 26, 2009, 05.29 AMby irmchen


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    Sep 26, 2009, 05.26 AMby countrygurltracy

    You did a beautiful job on that. I have been following you post about it and am so excited to see the final out come you can tell you worked very hard on it. It shows.

  • Charlie-deeshadows1_large

    Sep 26, 2009, 05.15 AMby smallone

    just sooooo worth all the effort. the finish is perfect, that is what you get for taking your time, I know I would never have the patience for 2 muslins!!

    1 Reply
    • 6e3656aa7036783b3e4bbc29f34d1029385afafe_large

      Sep 26, 2009, 02.35 PMby wzrdreams

      I was so paranoid about wasting my fabric and I had such enthusiasm for the project that the muslins didn’t really waste much of my time. Making them was great practice in cutting and sewing, so that by the time I cut the real fabric I wasn’t paranoid about the fit and it only took about 3 evenings to sew it all together.

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    Sep 26, 2009, 03.20 AMby camilaustral

    wooow! great job! the fabric is very nice too

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    Sep 26, 2009, 01.33 AMby lunatepetal

    whoa! great work! – looks very well made. love the buttons too :)

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    Sep 26, 2009, 12.29 AMby ginasophia


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