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Couture Wool Skirt with Inverted Box Pleat

Added Jun 22, 2010

by solsticefire

San Diego, Calif...






Flared knee-length skirt with a double-layered, inverted box pleat.
A few months ago I took an Apparel Construction class where we had to make a garment that used at least 50% couture techniques (and NO sergering!). I didn’t have time to draft a pattern, so I decided to pick a simple pattern but do a COMPLETELY couture garment…. well, almost. This entire skirt was handsewn, except for the side seam which I reinforced with machine stitching (I was afraid it may fall apart in the future – all my hard work!). I lined the skirt with a linen (my thinking was the linen would be cool against the wool, esp in socal weather, lol). This is a novice mistake, but luckily the linen and the wool do not stick to one another.

My couture techniques included a faced waistband, handpicked zipper (if anyone has had problem sewing zippers… try it by hand! Although it’s more time-consuming, it is actually easier), and hand-rolled hems on both the wool and the lining. The topstitching on the waistband and pockets were also done by hand. I did a Hong Kong finish on all the seams.

I used a pattern from the 11/09 issue of Burda. You can see it online here: (scroll to the right)
The pattern was pretty neat in that the top of the pockets turned into belt carriers.

Material Notes

100% wool, linen, invisible zipper, hook and eye




Garment Type
Business, Casual, Classic, Preppy
Linen, Wool

2 Comments Sign in to add a post

  • Knitfreak-avatar-7243_large_large

    Jun 25, 2010, 10.44 PMby domesticatedhuman

    Gorgeous skirt! You really must have the patience of a saint to hand stitch all of that.

    1 Reply
    • Burda_large

      Jun 29, 2010, 02.33 AMby solsticefire

      I don’t think I would have been as patient if it were not for a class project :) But I did want to challenge myself. The pattern has rather simple pieces and I just tried to sew little by little with any free time I had… I do like hand sewing, so I guess that helps too :)

  • 4343a36d4466c6f353525bdc97ba571be3128723_large

    Jun 22, 2010, 08.05 AMby thecuriouskiwi

    I liked this skirt from when I first saw the pattern in the magazine but I was worried the pleat would be a bit thick and hang funny but seeing all your photos shows me how nice it really is, I think I will bump it up my list, perfect for Winter with tights underneath. I am impressed with all your couture work, you must be very patient but I can see you hard work has paid off :) Thanks so much for sharing xx

    1 Reply
    • Burda_large

      Jun 23, 2010, 04.48 AMby solsticefire

      Thank you for the kind comment :) I think this pattern would work best with a lightweight wool/tweed to avoid bulkiness. The wool I chose was medium weight and I did have to give it a good pressing for the pleats to hold! I think this pattern would look great too in a cotton and perhaps shorter for a cute spring/summer skirt. The pieces are rather simple, so by machine I would say only about a couple of hours or so to complete! Good luck if you do try this! However, I know how these lists work — mine only keeps growing larger ;)

    • This is a question
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