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Basic Dress Sloper: How to Draft a Basic Dress Pattern

Added May 15, 2011

by Jamie Lau

Brooklyn, New Yo...




Step 21 Draft waist darts


Draw in darts around each of the three dotted lines that extend from the lower boundary of the sloper FCC to CD. The width of these lines are determined as follows. The standard is to introduce 18 cm of waist shaping, unless this would reduce the waist below the waist measurement plus 6 cm of ease. In the latter case, the waist darts should be scaled appropriately. When the full 18 cm is used, the three darts should be 2.5 cm wide for the back dart, 3 cm wide for the middle dart, and 3.5 cm wide for the front dart. However, the middle dart should be subdivided into 1 cm for the backward section and 2 cm for the forward section. The bodice sloper developed so far contains 9 cm of ease around the bust. The amount to be removed through waist darts is therefore the bust measurement plus 3 cm minus the waist measurement (the 3 cm addition is the result of 9 cm of bust ease minus 6 cm of waist ease). When this measurement is less than 18 cm, the waist darts should be scaled downwards as appropriate.

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