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Anniversary Toiles

Added Mar 30, 2011

by candyjoyce

Southampton, Uni...






I found this beautiful fabric on Tillys blog (last picture) and wanted to make a simple dress to show off the print. I chose the Cap-sleeve Mini Dress. I planned to make a bunch of wearable toiles until I got the fit and look of this dress just right, I ended up making 3 trial versions. I was not bowled over by this pattern. The sleeve pieces aren’t marked very well, the pattern instructions are lacking and the materials list doesn’t tell you simple things like what length zip is required. I’m also confused as to why you would have a neck facing and a full lining?
First I made the dress in a cotton Hawaiian print (from my stash). I lined the sleeves, bound the armholes and used facings at the neckline. The only change I made was to lengthen the hemline. The dress is wearable but a bit sack-like.
I made the next version in black cotton (from the stash) and fully lined it with cheap-o turquoise lining (also from the stash). In order to get clean finishes at the neck and armholes I used my own construction method instead of the one in the instructions. I also lowered the front and back necklines, added a little bit of shaping at the waist (about 4cm all over) and added a couple of slim back darts. I also decided to play around with the sleeves by slashing them through the middle.
A few more tweaks needed to be made for the perfect fit. I moved the back darts out 7cm and evened out the side seam curve. I removed the gaping from the front and back neckline. I also altered the sleeves again but will be reverting back to the sleeves from the black dress for the final garment.
I did a final trial in bird print from IKEA with some beige poly lining (from the stash). This pattern is now ready to be made up in my lovely fabric for our 10th Anniversary dinner.




Spring, Summer, Fall
Garment Type


Tilly and the Buttons
American Fabric Supplier
UK Fabric Supplier
Gaping Neckline Adjustments

4 Comments Sign in to add a post

  • 131005__231_2_large

    May 2, 2013, 11.15 PMby SewNotWork

    I agree! I put a toile together and decided it was not worth the time making all the changes to it and picked a different pattern.

  • Dsc09595avatar_large

    Apr 1, 2011, 12.59 PMby Ralf Schmitz

    i admire that you have all the patience to do all this, but having seen the material, i understand all your efforts! this dress will be amazing and it is just the right thing for your 10th anniv. (congrats to that one too!)

    1 Reply
    • 1253ef6da08f9a1c901d80b9de58822a5056c690_large

      Apr 1, 2011, 02.33 PMby candyjoyce

      Thanks Ralf, I’ve not been on Burdastyle for a long time so this seemed like a bit of a bad project to come back with but I really wanted to document my process.

      I’m really looking forward to making the dress in the final fabric and will share on here when it’s done.

      Also really looking forward to my 10th Anniversary dinner :)


  • Green_eyes_large

    Apr 1, 2011, 11.18 AMby frankiesoup

    That’ll look amazing in the final fabric when you’ve finished it. And you got 3 extra dresses too :) Win!

  • Me_large

    Apr 1, 2011, 08.28 AMby jessdunstan

    You have a neck facing to give the garment a more professional finish at the neck. The lining is not usually what you want to see and sometimes it does stick out slightly at the neck so you have a facing in the same fabric as the dress so that you don’t see the lining. The lining also adds a certain amount of structure to the outfit. Hope this helps :)

    1 Reply
    • 1253ef6da08f9a1c901d80b9de58822a5056c690_large

      Apr 1, 2011, 02.42 PMby candyjoyce

      Hi, thanks for the info. It still seems to me that this extra facing would add unnecessary bulk and is more difficult to achieve a clean/precise finish if the original instructions are followed.

      Also, considering that this dress is supposed to be made from sequin fabric, the facing would be cut from lining fabric anyway.

      Oh well, I have found my own way with this and the lining doesn’t poke out anywhere so I’m happy.


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