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I am attempting the vintage dress with the cowl back in Burda 5/2012. I am stuck at a point where the pattern description says:

Stitch front lining to front self facing, right sides together.and stitch back lining to self facing of back. Turn lining piece up and stitch to seam allowances, close to seam.

What does this mean? I am completely puzzled.

I have a front dress piece and a back dress piece in the outside fabric and a front and back in lining fabric. What is the self facing and where does it need to be attached?

If anyone could explain this I would be very grateful. I tried to search everywhere but I cannot find anything that explains…. please help.



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  • 20596winter_20fairy_large

    Nov 24, 2012, 11.31 AMby sewingfan1

    Haven’t you got some small pattern pieces for the front and back labelled “facings”? They are pieces that follow the neckline so that the lining won’t show where it joins the fashion fabric when you’re wearing the item and it helps everything lay flat there. Sometimes they are just marked on the main pattern pieces for the front and backs and you trace them off there and cut them out separately. (Have a look at tutorials on facings as that should help). I think the instructions will make sense to you once you’ve got the pattern pieces in your hands :-)

    1 Reply
    • Missing

      Nov 24, 2012, 04.54 PMby regenbogen

      Hi, thanks for your reply. I have checked and double checked. There is no mention of facings or any additional pattern pieces at all. Neither is there any fold or anything like this on the lining pieces.
      I’ve already cut out all the pieces and attached the bodice to the skirt pieces for front and back. That is for fashion fabric and lining. That means I now have 2 dress pieces (front & back ) in fashion fabric and 2 in lining.

  • 20596winter_20fairy_large

    Nov 24, 2012, 06.52 PMby sewingfan1

    Just popped up to the attic to have a look at the magazine, it looks to me like the facings are part of pattern pieces 21 and 22 (the front and back pieces). Do you see where there is like a semi circle at the top of each piece with a straight line across from the top of the arm opening to the centre back and centre front? (there is the marking no.5, then pleat markings, well where those end is where the ‘semicircle’ folds over to the inside as the facing from what I can tell) so you would attach the lining pieces to those curved edges.

    Re the stitching it close to the seam allowance, that’s a standard practice with facings and linings to make them lie flat but I’m useless at describing how it’s done. I think it’s called understitching and it should be easy to find an illustrated tutorial on how to do that if the written instructions don’t seem too clear. Sometimes pictures make all the difference!! (At least they do for me)

    1 Reply
    • Missing

      Nov 24, 2012, 10.17 PMby regenbogen

      That must be it! Quite complicated to attach the curved lining to the otherwise curved top of the dress, but it makes sense now. Thanks a lot! Brilliant, I can continue. I’m so happy! I was already researching one-on-one tutorials in the area. Thanks for taking the time as well.

  • 20596winter_20fairy_large

    Nov 25, 2012, 12.29 PMby sewingfan1

    http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/understitching here’s an online link that shows understitching but one on one lessons would be a fun way to learn too. Hope you enjoy making it.

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