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Hello, I was reading on the Burdastyle website how to apply twill tape, and the instructions say to place the tape directly over the stitching line on the wrong side of the shirt back piece, stitch the tape on the piece, then sew the back piece with the stay tape to the front piece…

My question is, if the tape is sewn directly on the stiching line, when the final seam is sewn, won’t half of the stay tape be poking through the right side of the garment where it can be seen/felt?

Answers would be appreciated! Thanks very much,


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  • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

    Aug 5, 2012, 05.09 PMby katexxxxxx

    You stitch it to the WRONG side of the fabric on the seam line. Then you place the fabric pieces RIGHT SIDE together… As the tape is then on the INSIDE of the garment, it doesn’t show. :)

  • Missing

    Aug 5, 2012, 08.59 PMby arrieros11

    Ok, I’m just trying to understand…

    When the instructions say place the twill tape on the stitching line, does that mean to line up the edges of the fabric and twill tape and stitch? I thought it meant place a 3/8’ piece of twill tape over the seam allowance stitching line (usually 5/8") which would mean that at least 1/8" would be to the inside of the seam allowance and 1/8" to the outside..

    So the twill tape is in the INSIDE of the seam allowance and that keeps it from stretching out?

    Thanks a lot!

    1 Reply
    • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

      Aug 5, 2012, 11.08 PMby katexxxxxx

      5/8" twill tape is way too hefty for most jobs. I use 1/4" light cotton tape, and pre-shrink it. The center of the tape goes along the seam line and I stitch it just inside the seam line into the seam allowance rather than ON the seam line. That way it doesn’t interfere with the seam stitching when you come to sew the seam.

      Most of the time you need to forget the cut edge of the fabric. The really important thing is the seam line. Mark it if you need to.

  • Missing

    Aug 6, 2012, 12.21 AMby arrieros11

    Sorry for asking so many questions…

    When you say “seam line” is that the 5/8" space between the cut edge of the fabric and the stitching line?

    If so, how does the twill tape make the seam stronger if it isn’t actually sewn into the actual seam? Unless you use a zigzag stitch where half of the stitches would be sewn into the twill tape.

    Thanks again

    1 Reply
    • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

      Aug 6, 2012, 09.02 AMby katexxxxxx

      Seam line = stitching line. The space between the seam/stitching line and the edge of the fabric is the seam allowance. (Be careful! It isn’t always 5/8"!)

      Place your tape along the seam line. Sew it a smidgeon into the seam allowance (try for 1/16"! Yes, it takes practice!) so that when you sew the seam ON the seam line, the tape has two very close parallel lines of stitching through it. If you try to do both on the seam line you risk some of the seam tape stitching showing on the outside, and it also makes the seam itself stiffer than it should be.

  • Missing

    Aug 6, 2012, 10.38 PMby arrieros11

    Thanks, I understand now!

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