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Been looking at my patterns and jackets and trying to figure this one out. How do I raise the notch on a jacket pattern? As in bring it up higher on the body, if that makes sense? See pic.

I recently bought a new jacket pattern and the notch is way too low. It’s down by my chest when I’d rather it be near my throat. It’s not 80s bad, but it’s much lower than how I prefer it.
The only way I’m seeing it right now is to make the neck hole on the pattern smaller and adjusting the collar accordingly, which would raise the gorge line and the notch, while also making the lapel thinner which is also something I’m trying to accomplish (I think they are tied together?). I’d have to adjust the jacket length for this, too, which should be fine since its also pretty long. Worried, though, this will mess up the arm hole position. ARGH so confusing.
If anyone has any resources for this, I’d appreciate it. Thanks!


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  • Dsc08840_large

    Apr 24, 2013, 08.57 AMby Sabrina Wharton-Brown

    Put the front pattern on the table and lay the collar on top of it so the the lapel seam that is above the buttonhole matches at the stitching lines. Lay a large sheet of tissue paper over this, making sure to cover the collar as well because you will need to trace it.

    Draw the design you want. Trace the collar with the new shape you want. Trace the front with the new shape. In both pieces, keep the everything the same except the things you changed, i.e. the collar and front necklines will probably overlap as the patterns are lain out and you must keep them this way. This way, only the style lines will have changed.

    You will likely need to draft a top collar by tracing the new collar and adding 1/8" along the outside edge, tapering to the inside of the notch.

    You will probably also need to draft a front facing. Add 1/8" to the lapel part of it, again tapering to the inside of the notch, and subtract 1/8" from the front-facing seam. Smooth the curve where the lapel turns back (the break).

    Add seam allowances where needed.

    short of drafting a collar from scratch, that is the best way I can imagine of doing this.

    • This is a question
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